Masala Chai from Sújan Sher Bagh

It goes without saying that eating and experiencing a local cuisine is not only one of the best parts of travel, but also the easiest way to learn about and connect with the community you are being welcomed into. So naturally when I traveled to India earlier this month for the first time, I started off every morning with a cup of masala chai. I knew I would like it, as I’d had versions of it before at Indian restaurants in the US and London, but little did I know how transformed I would become. 

Chai is pretty caffeinated, so it works well to wake you up in the morning, as well as at around 3:30-4pm when you start to fade—but it also never makes you feel anxious or jittery, as coffee often does. Also, as someone who likes a sugary drink, it hits all of the taste senses that you want: sweet, savory, milky and caffinene—a perfect mix. 

Another thing I learned during my trip is the link between hospitality and chai. For people in India, chai is not only a drink, but a conduit to human connection, conversation and welcoming. It’s also a ritual that unites the entire country, so when you partake as a foreigner, it’s also regarded as a channel for excitement about the place and the community. 

I had my first chai at The Johri in Jaipur, where we stayed for 5 days, and it was unlike anything I’d tasted at home: spicy, milky and caffeinated. Then I had a formal chai-making lesson at Suján Sher Bagh, after they saw that I liked it so much. At Suján, the chai was spicy and delicious, and when made by my teacher, Ajay, it was deliciously sweet. You can find the recipe below—it’s meant to be informal and adjusted to taste, since it’s often made by professionals who just know the perfect measurements. And don’t be intimidated by the ingredients! All of the whole spices can be found at the supermarket or specialty store, and Red Label tea can be bought easily online or at your local Asian supermarket. 

Sujan Sher Bagh’s Masala Chai

Makes about 2 cups of chai

Ingredients

200ml water
5 tsp Red Label black tea
Around 3 green and black cardamom pods (green can be harder to find, so just use black if you have!)
3-5 whole cloves
Around 5 black peppercorns
Cinnamon stick (or a few pieces of broken up cinnamon)
Around 2 tsp of fresh ginger, peeled and julienned
1 star anise
1 bay leaf
100-200ml milk

Method

Add water to a pot and bring to a boil. Add the loose tea and continue to boil for a few minutes, until the tea is darker in color. 

Combine all loose spices (excluding ginger) in a mortar and pestle. Mash for around a minute—they do not need to be ground to a paste, just beaten up so the aromas are released. Add this mixture into the boiling water along with the fresh ginger. Continue to simmer/boil for another minute or so. 

Once the aromas have released, add the milk into the pot. You can either do a 1-1 or a 1-2 ratio of milk to water—my teacher Ajay explained that most Indians prefer a 1-1 ratio, which often results in a thicker and milkier chai. Once the milk is added, let it boil for another 1-2 minutes, or longer if you’d prefer it thicker. Here is also the moment where you can add sugar. This can be to your preference—I like it sweet, and so does Ajay. 

Once the milk and sugar are boiled and incorporated, strain out the loose spices and serve. 

Ajay left me with a very funny saying at the end of my lesson: “Without masala chai, Indians wouldn’t wake up.” After living on this for a week as a normal coffee addict, I would agree. There is something about the chai that is just caffeinated enough, but doesn’t give you the shaky anxious buzz of too much coffee. And when it’s full of sugar, it’s a great sugar high as well—win-win!  

Ajay also explained that chai can be adapted to the season, or if you are sick. He recommends less ginger in the summer/warmer months, as ginger produces heat in the body, and more in the winter. He said that ginger also helps a sore throat, but to add less milk to your chai—as in Ayurveda, milk is to be avoided, as it can worsen throat pain and congestion. Turmeric can also be added to aid in immunity.