Suján The Serai, near Jaisalmer

Best for… Suján The Serai is a side trip to the desert in Rajasthan that could be equally romantic, adventurous, or restorative.

The look and feel… Set in the desert of western Rajasthan surrounded by undulating sand dunes, tall grass, a broad sky and beautiful tents (inspired by the royal caravan sites of the past), the feel of The Serai is, in one word: golden. That’s largely owing to the yellow limestone and sandstone architecture of the “Golden City,” from which Jaisalmer’s historical fortress (a UNESCO World Heritage site a few km away) is built—also used here in the foundations of the canvas-clad tents.

When my 19-year-old son and I arrived by car (a one-hour flight from Delhi and a 45-minute drive from Jaisalmer), we were greeted by riders on camels that cantered ahead of us as we turned into the main gates. Inside, I immediately fell in love with the property’s elegant common spaces: the bar and library are particularly chic in crisp whites, desert beiges and local weaves, with full bookshelves, chess tables and deep leather chairs that practically beg for a post-prandial glass of single malt. The lantern-lit pathways that lead to the tents, past the pool, and through tall brush rustling with birds and butterflies all blend seamlessly into the surroundings.

Together with Suján Sher Bagh in the Ranthambore Forest (tiger country), and Suján Jawai in an area of Rajasthan that is home to some of India’s last wild leopards, the Serai is their third camp. Founded, run and designed by Anjali and Jaisal Singh, the Suján group have been committed to conservation for decades, along with various local health and education initiatives in the towns and villages near their camps. Having visited all three camps multiple times, each has a different mood. The Serai feels the most reflective and is perfect for the peace and quiet that isn’t always easy to come by in India (aided by great food, stellar service and the vast beauty of the desert). A visit to the stunning fort at Jaisalmer is a must, as are the majestic dunes that surround the Serai.

The rooms…There are 21 tented suites scattered across the property, each in its own private garden. White sofas line the private terrace, where birds alight at all times of the day as you sit and sip your morning coffee or evening aperitif. The sitting room is decorated in classic safari style (writing desk, campaign chairs, colorful textiles that are locally sourced and woven). In the palatial bedroom, a king-size bed sits in a cocoon of a room with a fully stocked bar and, beyond it, a gigantic bathroom leading to a plunge pool. This space, surrounded by open sky and birdsong and then flickering with candles by night, is a room that is hard to leave and heaven to return to.

The wellness… There’s a separate spa area with multiple tents offering ayurvedic, reflexology and organic treatments, a pool set in limestone, and meditation and yoga offered mornings and evenings. I found the landscape deeply meditative, too—the constant trilling of birds was enough to induce a trancelike state. While I luxuriated in multiple treatments and massages, my son spent his time in the pool and cycling around the pathways that run through the vast grounds.

The food… Much of what is served is grown organically within the property. We started the morning with breakfast served on a farm table set within their fields and gardens—freshly picked, freshly squeezed, freshy baked. The kitchen excels in regional Rajasthani fare like laal maas, yogurt fritters and the typical Rajasthani thali (served on a silver platter with bite-size tastings of all local specialties). However, they are just as adept at an international menu: my son asked for a lamb burger on a whim and within minutes it appeared, cooked to perfection. Honorable mention to the perfect martini (or two) served nightly at the bar.

Be sure to… Have sundowners on the dunes, entailing taking a jeep through farms and villages to arrive at the massive dunes, where camels await a sunset ride followed by champagne. We also loved watching an outdoor movie under the desert night sky in true camp style, with lanterns scattered around and a film accompanied by dinner on safari stools. And be sure to book a meeting with local artisans (potter, woodworker, or weaver), who come by for demonstrations. Jaisalmer has a rich craft culture, and the pleasure of meeting these masters who’ve perfected their skill over generations (and buying a piece or two) is unparalleled. One of the potters invited us to his village workshop a few villages away, and we happily took him up on his offer. Entering his small home, we were greeted by his entire family (both his sons have carried on the pottery tradition), and with great pride were shown his workshop and the roof where rows of pots baked in the hot desert sun, along with a long recitation of the tradition of pottery in this part of Rajasthan.

Parting words… Beautiful and calming. I would return tomorrow if I could.

Date of stay… October 2023