Hello from… Noto and Modica. These postcard-perfect towns in Sicily’s Val di Noto epitomize Sicilian baroque style (both were rebuilt after the devastating 1693 earthquake), with their golden sandstone buildings and majestic piazzas. We headed to this region after a week’s stay in Salinas (the Aeolian Island off of Sicily’s Northeast corner) and were motivated by the proximity—an easy drive along the island’s East Coast—given that we had two six year olds in tow. While the picturesque Baroque towns looked lovely while we were booking, we were mildly apprehensive about the potential lack of activity for young ones, not to mention the possibility of oppressive summertime heat. But these towns – just 22 miles apart—wowed us.
We pulled into Modica as the sun was setting over the golden town, which feels like it’s been built vertically and connected by endless flights of steps, prompting questions about how anyone ever moved in or out or renovated. We seemed to travel back in time, as our kids played on the towering steps of the San Pietro church with locals they’d met, and we dined on seafood pasta nearby. In Noto, we were shocked by a handful of elegant boutiques and culinary gems that we unearthed with only a little digging. And driving between the two, we found a handful of local beach clubs with such great, undiscovered-by-Americans vibes, that we decided we could have stayed for much longer than the 5 days we’d allotted.
Where I’m staying… In Modica we stayed at Casa Talia, the undisputed best “boutique” hotel in Modica, and maybe the entire region. It is the brainchild of Marco and Viviana, a Milanese architect couple who opened the intimate property 20 years ago and continue to evolve and build on it (a restaurant and spa are slated to open in early 2027). The work is slow and meticulous—all of the rooms are restored from century-old homes and connected via a network of paths and shared gardens.
The best meal I had… was at Ristorante Manna, outside of Noto and situated in the courtyard of a 19th-century castle. The food and service were excellent: it was that impossibly perfect balance of attentive service and laidback vibes, all enjoyed over gin negronis for my husband Peter (a cocktail aficionado) and Sicily’s delicious, volcanic-proximate Grillo white wine for me (a mineral-ly wine lover).
Most fun things I did… Sicily’s eastern coast is dotted in “lidos” (beach clubs where you can pay by the day). I highly recommend booking an umbrella and getting a bottle of white wine beachside. For anyone looking to earn their R&R: I loved hiking through Riserva Naturale Cavagrande del Cassibile—an extraordinarily beautiful nature reserve that cuts through deep canyons with exquisite wading pools. And if I am allowed to choose beach, land and sea, then I’d highly recommend spending an evening with Captain Salvo of Classic Boat Ortigia. We cruised his classic wooden 100-year-old sailboat from the harbor at Ortigia as the sun set beyond the coves. Just when we thought it couldn’t get any better, Salvo appeared from below deck with a spread of fresh mozzarella, steamed mussels, caponata, and wine. Bellisimo!
The book I read (and would recommend) … I read My Name Is Emilia del Valle by Isabel Allende on the trip and it was captivating. The story follows a strong-willed (and humorous) woman and her bravery as a journalist in San Francisco and her adventures to Chile (solo, as a female, in wartime!) during the Chilean Civil War in 1891. I felt incredibly inspired by her moxie (especially as I sat in a lounge chair).
What I packed… I am always a carry-on gal. I packed a few pareos (rolled for maximum efficiency), light-weight button down shirts (Matteau is a perennial favorite), and dresses that went over bikinis and then got paired with a necklace for dinner (this feels perfectly chic and wrinkle free). I lean into flats (slip-on sandals or woven espadrilles), and I am not afraid to mix colors, prints, and statement jewelry. For a detailed packing list check out my Substack.
Playlist on repeat… Local Italian Pop Radio, which played Italian and international pop hits with DJ’s talking a mile a minute!
A thing or two I learned… Modica is famous for maintaining its ancient, cold-pressing—and unprocessed—method of chocolate production: the chocolate is mixed at cold temperatures so the sugar crystals don’t melt, creating a uniquely grainy texture and a rich cacao taste. We loved shopping for treats at La Bottega Sabadì, where the packaging rivaled the great taste (we bought this “Mamma” bar home for our mama).
For the record… When we hear Siciliy these days, many of us think White Lotus followed by “American tourists.” Despite visiting in July, we were pleasantly surprised that the Baroque towns we explored felt decidedly low key and not over-run by American influencers (that said, we skipped Taormina).
The best thing I’m bringing home… A decidedly European-vacation-inspired linen look from V., a newly opened boutique in Noto that features female designers championing slow production from around the world. I have been living in my tomato linen shirt, cream pants, and Vanessa Sposi straw hat stateside. Also, for anyone looking to discover some retail therapy, Noto is your place. We loved: Archivo, Amare Noto and Santagatha for cool fashion, Just Noto for linen, Antichità Nicolaci for antiques, Ortigia Sicilia for soaps and accessories.
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