Dispatch from Agrigento

I first visited Sicily in 2003, exploring the area on the southwest coast that would eventually become Verdura Resort, which my father’s company (Rocco Forte Hotels) opened in 2009. It wound up becoming the home of our organic farm and source of many of the natural local ingredients we use in Irene Forte Skincare, including olive and sweet almond oil, Sicilian Prickly Pear, and Sicilian lemons. We sell them at the Rocco Forte Hotel spas, as well as more than 200 other shops around the world. 

From the beginning, I fell in love with the island’s people, the traditions, the warm hospitality, the food—there’s truly nothing like it. Sicily’s layered history—shaped by Greek, Roman, Arab, and Norman influences—is visible in everything from its Baroque towns and ancient ruins to its street festivals and architecture. That same cultural fusion flavors its food—fresh seafood, pasta alla Norma, and sweets like cannoli and cassata—set against a backdrop of dramatic cliffs and fertile farmland.

While much of Sicily draws crowds to places like Taormina and the Aeolian Islands, the southwest, particularly around Agrigento, remains relatively untouched. It’s a quieter, more authentic side of the island, where local life still leads and tourism hasn’t taken over. The landscapes are wild and expansive: olive groves stretching to the sea, rolling hills of vineyards and citrus trees, and long white-sand beaches that remain blissfully uncrowded.

Agrigento is best known for the Valley of the Temples, one of the world’s most impressive Greek archaeological sites. But beyond that, the area is deeply rooted in tradition. Its villages are humble and welcoming, and the beauty here feels raw and grounding—less polished, more personal.

Here are a few of my favorites on Sicily’s western coast, starting in Palermo, where most visitors usually arrive, and down to Agrigento, where our farm is.

Where to eat

Bar Turistico (Palermo) – For the best arancini in town, head here to try Sicily’s famous street food.

Piana degli Albanesi (Palermo) – Famed for its cannoli – a crispy pastry filled with fresh ricotta – this is the place for Sicilian sweets.

MATES (Caltabellotta) – A cozy, family-run restaurant offering traditional Sicilian classics like Pasta alla Norma, made with the freshest local ingredients.

Di Giovanna Vineyard (Sambuca di Sicilia) – Visit this family-run vineyard for an inside look at the organic winemaking process, from vine to cellar. You can do a tasting of Di Giovanna organic wines (which we use in our products!) and extra virgin olive oil, paired with local antipasti. 

La Scogliera (Siculiana Marina) – Situated by the Torre Salsa Reserve, this traditional seafood restaurant serves fresh, local dishes like Mazara del Vallo red prawns.

Osteria Expanificio (Agrigento): A former bakery turned modern eatery, with bread-shaped wall art hinting at its past. The menu features Sicilian favorites like stuffed sardines, caponata, Robiola ravioli, and veal involtini.

Where to Shop 

Sicily is renowned for its rich artisanal traditions, from stunning ceramics (we work with Toni Gurreri in Sciacca to create display materials for Irene Forte Spas), to its intricate crochet work and iconic coffa bags made from palma nana. 

Sciacca, a charming coastal town near Verdura Resort, has a shop called Nocito Gioelli that makes beautiful red Sciacca coral jewelry. Sciacca coral is celebrated for its distinct color—ranging from deep orange to salmon pink, often with brownish or black markings, which are a result of its origin near underwater volcanic activity. 

Manima workshop in Palermo has the most beautiful hand-embroidered pieces. 

Planeta is a wonderful vineyard that produces fantastic wine and olive oil – this can be purchased at the vineyard. The Di Giovanna vineyard (also in the area) also sells beautiful organic, vegan wine (their Gerbino white wine is in our Helichrysum Toner and White Wine Body Cream). 

Explorations

Monreale Cathedral & Cloisters – Just outside of Palermo, Monreale is home to one of Sicily’s greatest Norman architectural masterpieces. The cathedral and cloisters are simply breathtaking, with their magnificent mosaic decorations, some of the most stunning I’ve ever seen.

Cappella Palatina (Palermo) – Located in Palermo, this chapel is often called a ‘mini Monreale’. It features the same stunning mosaic work on a smaller, yet equally impressive, scale.

Caltabellotta – A short drive from Verdura, this hilltop town has stunning 360-degree views and a romantic Norman Cathedral. It’s extra special to me because I got married there and my husband and I are both honorary citizens of the town as a result. I recommend doing a beautiful hike here up to the Cathedral and then finishing with lunch at MATES (mentioned above). 

The Valley of the Temples (Agrigento) –  I love stepping back in time to explore the incredible ancient temples, especially having a sunset picnic here. These are the best-preserved Greek temples outside of Greece. 

Torre Salsa Nature Reserve – The reserve spans over 760 hectares and offers incredible hiking, leading to secluded, empty white beaches. With its chalky cliffs, limestone marls, and layers of clay, Torre Salsa is a nature lover’s paradise, where you can relax on untouched sands with no one in sight. 

Where to Stay

Verdura Resort – Of course! My favorite spot on the island spans 230 hectares of olive groves, offering incredible sea views, and luxurious treatments at Irene Forte Spa, and the very farm that our Irene Forte Skincare sources its ingredients from.

Villa Igiea – Perched amid terraced gardens and palm trees offering panoramic views of the bay of Palermo, this is a turn-of-the-century iconic property that is also a Rocco Forte hotel. With its quirky Irene Forte Spa and locally made Sicilian ceramics, Villa Igiea offers relaxation steeped in tradition. Every effort has been made to preserve the hotel’s unique heritage by involving the local community and drawing on its expert knowledge and talent. It’s also home to an Irene Forte Spa.

Tonnara di Scopello – Once a tuna fishery, the old fishermen’s houses have been transformed into three apartments. With respect to the place and its history, you won’t find TV, telephone lines or air conditioning. However, you will be surrounded by nature and crystal-clear waters. It is located by the Riserva dello Zingaro, 1600 hectares of untouched nature with incredible trails.