Just Back From…Wales

It is my daughter’s first year of school, and I’ve made it a point to regularly take her away for a few days, to give her my time and pull her out of the city. It was also the perfect excuse to separate my husband from Claude, with whom he has spent most of his evenings these past few months. And I think I made the right decision because, within the first five minutes of our trip, the former asked me whether she was actually allowed to walk on the grass, while the latter wondered if the birdsong in the pub where we had stopped en route from the airport was coming from hidden speakers or if it was “the real thing.” A comment so revealing of how quietly disconnected from reality we have become.

I love Paris more than anything, but its pace is relentless and, over the past few years, I’ve had the feeling that we are slowly losing authenticity, local craftsmanship and old ways of living, replaced instead by the same cafés, interiors and concepts appearing everywhere. How many neighbourhood food shops or craftsmen have disappeared only to make room for three, then five, and now ten coffee shops on the very same street? Beyond wondering who actually drinks that much coffee, and what it says about a society that seemingly needs to be permanently caffeinated just to function, there is probably an entire sociological thesis to be written on the subject. More than anything, these coffee shops are gradually erasing the social fabric once found in our Parisian bar-tabacs, on café terraces and around zinc counters.

It is these daily reflections, anxieties perhaps even, about the direction our lives are taking, faster and faster, that pushed me to organise a disconnected holiday. A holiday against the current. A holiday to experience “life before.” And so, in search of lost time, and perhaps of a country still fuelled more by tea than triple-shot oat milk lattes, we flew from Paris and set off from Bristol towards Abergavenny, in the eastern reaches of Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons) National Park, where the Usk Valley meets the Black Mountains. Towards Wales.

My saved Instagram boards titled “Cottage Core Vibes” and “Interiors” have been overflowing with photos of The Little Mill for over a year now. I had been dreaming of discovering this former Victorian mill ever since its renovation by its incredibly talented owners, who did absolutely everything themselves. A true labour of love. Everything feels as though it has always been there. Every object has been sourced and considered with remarkable simplicity. Nothing feels performative or trend-driven. Just beautiful, lived-in and sincere. Spending a few days at The Little Mill feels like stepping inside the pages of a children’s book, somewhere between Beatrix Potter and Kazuo Iwamura’s The Mouse Family. But it is also a journey through time, through childhood memories and the comforting atmosphere of our grandparents’ homes. I felt instantly at ease there. As though I had finally found a way of living I had been longing for for a very long time. At times, I even had the strange feeling that I somehow recognised the place. Like a memory from another life.

It must be said that Wales itself feels entirely infused with folklore of extraordinary richness. “Extraordinary” is perhaps the only word capable of describing the brilliance of Celtic legends, which rival anything found in the world of Harry Potter and which we delighted in sharing with our eldest daughter throughout the trip. I grew up surrounded by these stories. French tales, English ones, Irish legends. A world inhabited by fairies, powerful witches and mysterious creatures hidden deep within forests, lakes and hills. And now that I am a mother myself, I realise how deeply I want to pass these stories on to my children. Because folklore reminds us of our ancient connection to nature, a connection that urbanisation, technology and modern life have gradually erased.

It was in this spirit that, during the girls’ first hike through the Black Mountains in the Brecon Beacons National Park, we told our daughter the legend of Llyn y Fan Fach. The story tells of a young farmer who, while tending his cattle near the lake, saw a beautiful woman emerge from the water. The two fell in love and she agreed to marry him on one condition: if he ever struck her with iron, she would return forever to the lake. Years later, after they had built a life together and had three sons, the farmer accidentally touched her with an iron bridle. Without a word, she walked back into the lake and disappeared forever. Their sons continued to visit her by the water’s edge and, one day, she revealed that they were destined to become healers. She taught them the medicinal plants and wild herbs of the Welsh mountains. These children would later become the legendary Physicians of Myddfai, mythical pioneers of medieval Welsh medicine whose legacy is said to endure to this day.

The legend alone says a great deal about how deeply rooted the relationship to plants, healing herbs and the natural world remains within Welsh, and more broadly Celtic, culture. In that same spirit, we travelled with a small satchel for my daughter in which she collected flowers for her herbarium, along with a little botanical guide so I could show my girls the flowers we came across, name them and explain their virtues. Through enchanted valleys, far from the noise of modern life, along fairy waterfalls and winding paths, we filled our pockets and little satchels with wildflowers, herbs, stones and tufts of wool caught in hedges after the sheep had passed through. Always repeating the same phrase my daughter had learned along the way: “In nature, we only take what we need.” And somewhere between those long walks and small treasures gathered from the earth, we found ourselves reconnecting with nature, with living things, with life itself. Something to observe, to learn from and ultimately to love. That too, I believe, is an important form of transmission. Especially at a time when so much of the world is becoming virtual, accelerated and increasingly detached from reality. Perhaps her generation will have the chance to choose paths more deeply connected to the land, to nature and to real life. At least, that is what I hope for her and what I am trying, in my own way, to pass on.

Before we left, my uncle told me about his first trip to Wales with my English aunt back in the 1980s. He spoke of “walking across the moors of the Black Mountains, discovering the deep Welsh valleys where hidden treasures of beauty lie. Of Abergavenny, a little jewel. And of those Welsh pubs where the magical elixir of the Celts is still served. A curious potion made from magic mushrooms and strong local liquor. Drink it and you’ll run like a Viking across the moors and mountains,” he told me.

Another Celtic legend involving magical plants, and one I’ll wait a few more years before sharing with my daughters.

EXPLORE

 Y Sawna & a dip up the Blorenge Moutain – Walk around the top of the mountain and take in the incredible view of Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons). Perched beside Keeper’s Pond in the hills above Blaenavon, Y Sawna looks out across the Welsh countryside towards Sugar Loaf mountain. The concept is simple: wood-fired sauna sessions followed by icy plunges into the lake, surrounded by nothing but wind, water and wild landscape. A beautifully Nordic, almost primal experience – for just £12 a session.

Pen y Fan – The iconic Welsh summit with spectacular cinematic views across the Brecon Beacons. We did a smaller hike through sheep-filled landscapes to one of the neighbouring peaks, Cribyn, which is manageable with children. Park here to start the walk.

Blaen y Glyn Isaf waterfalls – Favourite walk and perfect with children. The car park is easily accessed and it’s a loop so nice and easy for children also.

Nant-y-Bedd – Hidden deep in the Welsh countryside, it is one of those secret gardens that feels almost enchanted. Winding paths, wild flowers, stone walls and little streams unfold beneath the surrounding hills, creating the perfect place to wander slowly for an afternoon.

Llanthony Priory – The most magical monastery ruins set in a stunning valley. There is an excellent little pub in the underground vaults serving drinks and basic food.

Patricio St Issui – Tiny chapel beside the pilgrimage site of a 6th-century hermit and tucked away in the countryside. Inside, a rare medieval “Doom” painting depicting the Day of Judgement gives the place a haunting atmosphere.

Capel-y-ffin – Mystical little hamlet hidden among the hills, long associated with artists and folklore. Incredibly photogenic, too.

Penpont – A magical family-owned estate nestled along the River Usk with wild gardens, ancient trees, walled kitchen gardens and endless space for children to roam freely.

Abergavenny Castle and then onto Castle Meadows – A nice local one with kids to walk to.

Tretower Court – Exactly how I imagined Wuthering Heights would look.

The Sugar Loaf – Local mountain that has nice walks and you don’t have to walk to the top.

Broadleaf Books – Best second-hand bookshop in the area. The perfect stop before heading home with a novel to read by the fire.

 Elan Valley Reservoirs – Dramatic reservoirs and cinematic roads through breathtaking scenery.

St Fagans National Museum of History – One of the best places to discover Welsh folk history, traditional crafts and old rural life.

Big Pit National Coal Museum – Fascinating immersion into Wales’ mining and industrial heritage.

EAT & DRINK

 The Black Bear Inn – A beautiful local pub serving excellent seasonal food in a warm countryside setting. Perfect after a morning exploring the surrounding valleys and only a short walk from a lovely wild swimming spot near Clytha.

Morning in Abergavenny Castle – Pick up warm pastries and coffee from Popty before wandering up to the castle grounds for breakfast in the grass overlooking the surrounding hills. Don’t miss the tiny local museum tucked inside the ruins.

Exploring Abergavenny – Spend the morning wandering through the covered market, browsing the independent art shop and gallery along the high street.

The Bull’s Head Craswall – A wonderfully old-fashioned pub just over the Welsh border, with a river running behind it and the feeling of stepping into another era. Expect a crackling fire, locals gathering for skittles and coits, and long pints after muddy countryside walks.

The Chapel – One of our favourite lunch spots in town. Beautifully curated interiors, contemporary art, excellent cheese sandwiches and a playful corner for children.

Ty Melin Bakery – Incredible pastries and buttery morning buns.

 Angel Bakery – Proof that even someone exhausted by the endless invasion of coffee shops can still fall for one when it is done right. A charming deli and café with excellent pastries and one of the best cappuccinos I’ve ever had.

The Angel Hotel – A classic local institution serving seasonal food, elegant Walnut Bar perfect for cocktails at the end of the day.

The Felin Fach Griffin – Beautiful countryside inn with a warm, convivial atmosphere, seasonal local food, crackling fires and the comforting feeling of a place that has always existed. Perfect after a long walk through the Welsh hills.

Shepherds Ice Cream – Old-fashioned ice cream shop in the heart of Abergavenny

STAY

Little Mill, Abergavenny – The former Victorian mill where we stayed and completely fell in love with Wales. Entirely renovated by its owners, filled with antique objects, crackling cast-iron stove, lovely fabrics, books and tiny details.

Allt-y-bella, Monmouthshire⁠ – 500 years old (at least), in a hidden valley, with a garden crafted by Chelsea Flower show award winner Arne Maynard.Deeply romantic, peaceful and full of character.

The Courtyard Wing, Penpont⁠ – If you came here as a child, it would probably become one of those places that feels almost unreal in your memories. A sprawling house to explore for hours, from attic rooms to glasshouses, woods and riverside paths. Adults might gravitate towards the river sauna, long walks through Bannau Brycheiniog or fly fishing at the bottom of the garden, before everyone reunites at the end of the day with stories to tell by the fire.

Tregoyd Estate – Blaen-y-Cwm – Beautifully remote cottages surrounded by wilderness, streams and dark skies. Perfect for long walks through the Black Mountains before returning home for a hot bath and dinner by the fire.