A couple years back, I returned to Mazatlán after about a 20-year lapse since my last visit. In my first few trips as a teenager, a local friend would watch out for us, taking us around, bringing us the most incredible smoked marlin from her mom’s kitchen, and also getting us into trouble (and us her) by taking us to cheesy foam parties at terrible nightclubs. Mazatlán was still living the moment of lower budget tourism, with all that that entails.
On my last trip a couple of years ago, we stayed in a rented apartment in the majestic colonial downtown area, with its colorful, embellished homes built in the neoclassical tropical style. As I looked around the Plazuela Machado and its enormous palm trees and green tropical gardens, I wondered why I had never seen this area before. “Well”, my friend said, “nothing was really there.” The historical downtown, cemented by the Angela Peralta Theater and built in the 19th century, had been completely abandoned. A huge effort to revitalize the area started in the early 2000s. Since then, cafes, bars, restaurants and bookshops share space with a local population of Mazatlecos, as well as a small influx of Canadians and Americans. It’s a beautiful pedestrian area, just blocks from the 13-mile-long boardwalk, one of the longest in the world.
Mazatlán is in Sinaloa, the home state of the Sinaloa Cartel, and it suffers, of course, with the insecurity that comes with it. But there is so much beauty in this port city that manages to overcome any stigma attached to its current situation. The prices are still very low compared to places like Puerto Escondido, which have been discovered by the world, and the costs have jacked up accordingly. And what Mazatlán undoubtedly does better than anyone is the food.
In my opinion, Sinaloa has some of the best food in the country. Fishing is a huge industry, and the seafood you can get is unparalleled. Seafood joints, taco trucks, upscale fine dining—Mazatlán really has something for everyone’s tastes. For surfing beginners, it is an easy spot to learn as the waves are mild, and for baseball lovers there is a strong passion for the local team, the Venados de Mazatlán which play in the Mexican Pacific League. Sometimes called the “’Billfish Capital of the World,” Mazatlán is also a major competitive fishing destination, with year-round sport fishing competitions.
Hotel development has yet to catch up to other beach destinations in Mexico, but there a lot of beautiful houses to rent in the historical center (like La Perfecta), a few small boutique hotels (like the Pueblo Bonito Vantage), and family-run hotels that are simple but give you everything you need. As the only colonial city that is a beach destination in Mexico, Mazatlán still feels like an undiscovered secret, and I hope that it stays that way for many years to come.
SEAFOOD
El Cuchupetas
Playa Sal Mariscos
RESTAURANTS
Hector’s Bistrot
Pizza Bar La Sagrada
TACOS
Tacos El Sebas (go for the tongue tacos)
BEACHES
Unfortunately Mazatlan has alot of traffic. You can easily walk to the public beach just blocks away from the historical center and go to the public beach there right off the boardwalk. It’s crowded and exactly what you would expect from a public beach. You can also go to the newish Shekinah Beach Club, where you can have a bit more privacy. Lastly, Playa Bonita is where everyone goes to learn to surf. The best beaches are a short drive away!
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