The José Ignacio List

We always get questioning looks when we tell people we go to José Ignacio, in Uruguay, for the temporada (late December to late January). It all started about 14 years ago, when we read a Condé Nast Traveler story about José Ignacio and it looked so appealing we booked a trip immediately. Think long, wide beaches with barefoot restaurants, lazy countryside living, long late lunches and even longer dinners prepared in typical asado style. When we checked out that first year, we booked again for the following year. We just returned for the eighth time, and it definitely won’t be our last.

It’s hard to describe why we love it so much. José Ignacio is an old fishing village with a very laid-back vibe; everything is within a 15-minute bike ride. The local community is strong and very protective about its aesthetics and architecture, so you won’t see any gigantic buildings or chains—everything is very authentic. While it’s still quite hush-hush and the main events happen in private houses, over the last few years, Ignacio has been developing and you’ll now find new small hotels and restaurants popping up. Also the crowd is great—loads of Argentines, Brazilians, Chileans, few North Americans or Europeans; I guess you could call it eclectic and very international. We have met people over the years that we see again in random places all over the world.

In a typical day, we have a late breakfast, go for a swim, walk on the beach or in the village (or a neighboring one) before getting ready for lunch—which, this being South America, is around 2pm. Our favorite is La Huella (one of the best restaurants on the continent, truly). We call it “the clubhouse”—you meet the whole community here, and can come for an early drink, late lunch, more drinks and then a late dinner with fantastic fish and meat prepared with the freshest produce on the grill. After lunch—and rounds of cocktails and bottles of wine—it’s time for reading and a siesta; preferably at the beach or pool. The sunset is late this time of year, and be ready for a mind-blowing one with the sky on fire. We have a pre-dinner apero before heading to one of our favorite restaurants in the village or a short drive away. We normally meet friends around 10pm, either in town or a few minutes away in the neighborhood of La Juanita. And we finish after midnight, of course. There is so much to do and see and eat, and places to bump into old friends. Here are our favorites!

Where to eat

• La Huella – Owners Martin, Gustavo, Guzman and their whole team will take great care of you; you’ll want to return again and again.
• Mostrador Santa Teresita – Owned by the La Huella family and the chef Fernando Trocca of Sucre in London; he also has a spot in New York.
• Mostrador Bodega – Newly opened this season by the same owner as La Huella and chef Fernando Trocca out in the vineyards, just a quick drive from the village.
• Cruz de Sur – Fresh farm-to-table fare, right downtown and just perfect.
• Marismo – A must for dinner in a lovely garden with an open fire; the cocktails are great as well.
• La Susana – For parties and fun lunches and dinner; also great for a sunset drink.
• Juana – Another staple with grilled fish and meat in a cozy environment.
• Tres – A new opening serving Italian food and sister restaurant to Juana.
• Solera – A pretty wine and tapas bar full of locals.
• Lo Olada – A classic rustic place famous for its exquisite lamb.
• Garzon – By the celebrated chef Francis Mallmann in a transformed former abandoned train station village (45 minutes’ drive). Go early so you can catch the sunset over the countryside while driving.
• Chiringuito Mallmann – At the beach—rumor has it Francis was inspired by Death in Venice when dreaming up this setting.

Where to stay

• Posada del Faro – This is our place. Carla and Jose create an environment that is, truly, a home away from home. Breakfast is 24 hrs, with lovely service and an honesty bar that is always stocked.
• Posada Ayana – The newest on the block by lovely Austrian hosts Edda and Robert; think ‘70s Brazilian design mixed with art.
• Any of the three Vik properties – Playa Vik, Estancia Vik, Bahia Vik. You can never go wrong staying here, with their eclectic design featuring local artists. Carrie and Alex are one of a kind; you’ll meet them late on the dance floor at the party. Also check out their amazing Vik wine from Chile. 
• Fasano – The Brazilian restaurant/hotel group opened in a beautiful setting close to José Ignacio a few years ago.

Some things to do

Wineries – Check out the local wineries and go for a tasting. Uruguayan wine is quite something—the heavy Tannants are fantastic. We would recommend the wineries Garzon and Oceanica José Igancio.

Art – There is quite a vibrant art scene here; check out the James Turrell Skyspace, Ta Khut, on the property of the Posada Ayana. Also there is Campo Garzon, an arts festival created by Heidi Lender. It’s also worth seeing the famous Uruguayan sculptor and his foundation, Pablo Atchugarry.

Film – Film is big and the annual José Ignacio International Film Festival has become very popular and influential. Fiona Pittaluga and team have done an amazing job here; they caused a stir at the recent Cannes Film Festival when they hired a yacht and had the chefs from La Huella and a local Uruguayan DJ flown to France.

Horseback riding – Of course, in a land of gauchos you should try to go horseback riding in the campo or at the beach, or maybe try some polo.

Surfing – The water is great and there are various surfing schools dotted along the beach, especially kite-surfers enjoy their time here.

Explore – The neighboring village of Maldonada is a few minutes’ drive. Make sure to check out La Linda, an amazing bakery, and the beautiful curated store Mutate. There are some nice galleries and design stores to explore as well. If you want to go further, Punta del Este is not far, though we have never been.

Shopping – Make sure you check out Paula Martini’s store with amazing knitwear and pick up one of her fabulous ponchos, which comes in handy in José Ignacio.