My first trip to Uruguay was in 2004, when I was seven months pregnant with my son, Joaquin. I was planning a trip to Mexico, when Francis Mallmann insisted I come down to Garzón where he was just opening his new Restaurant, Garzón, with its lovely 5-room inn. It was to be the last time I traveled before giving birth, and he wanted me to be safe with him and his family. It was an unforgettable experience. I was pampered with three glorious meals a day as I relaxed in the beautiful hotel’s courtyard reading books, my feet dangling in the square, perfect pool. When my energy was up, I’d drive around the area, visiting the beautiful low-key pueblo of José Ignacio with its delicious restaurants, or exploring La Paloma and La Pedrera to the north and the boutiques and galleries south through Manantiales and La Barra. Some of my dearest friends—who are more like family—live in the area, so I’ve returned many times since, whenever I’m in need of a bit of peace and quiet. I’m actually heading back tomorrow, and can’t wait!
Over the years, my trips there revolve around visits to those friends: Isabella Channing (of the renowned Channing Daughters Vineyard in Bridgehampton) runs The Shack Yoga Center at the Vik Hotel, a serene wellness center that overlooks the beach; Heidi Lender, founder of Campo, the extraordinary artist-in-residence program in Garzón, transplanted herself to that old gaucho town—now an oasis in the middle of remote horse country—to feed her creative spirit as a writer and photographer. Then there is Fernando Trocca and his wonderful team at Mostrador, who run Mostrador Marram in Montauk in the summer, and Francis, of course. Through these visits, I’ve collected a number of favorite places in Garzón and along the coast that I try to get back to as often as I can.
Stays
All the Vik Hotels: Bahia Vik, Playa Vik, Estancia Vik
Wineries
Bodega Garzón Winery, Garzón – A stunning, modern winery perched among rolling vineyards 10 min north of Garzón, great for a leisurely lunch or watching the sunset. A modern take on some of the best cuisine in the region. The kitchen never under-delivers.
Bodega Oceanica, Maldonado – A local vineyard in the countryside above José Ignacio, with ocean breezes and seasonal fare restaurant under the tutelage of Chef Fernando Trocca of Mostrador Santa Teresita and his amazing team.
Restaurants
Boulevard de las Palmeras, Punta del Este – Delicious local fare by Isabella Channing’s husband, chef Marcelo Betancourt, mostly cooked on the fire. Tucked away from the main drag in Punta del Este, Marcelo brilliantly refurbished a rustic colonial space to create an effortlessly chic and deeply local setting for refined dishes that feel both elevated and relaxed. Marcelo’s CDC, Micaela Wicnudel, has been working with us at Il Buco al Mare for the last 2 summers preparing for this exciting opening.
La Huella – This José Ignacio hot spot, directly on the beach, is where locals and tourists gather in droves to enjoy the open fire kitchen and festive atmosphere created by Martin Pittaluga, Gustavo Barbero and Guzman Artagaveytia.
Mostrador Santa Teresita – Chef Fernando Trocca’s brilliant display of local flavors and delectable pastries served all day long just blocks from the beach of José Ignacio, run by the inimitable Bambu, Fefo & Stefano, and their team of talented culinary elves.
Marismo – Another firewood favorite just beyond José Ignacio off a little dirt road—owners Federico Desseno and Natasha Desantadina have created a relaxed environment where you can dine with your feet in the sand. Delicious local fare with an amazing wine cantina with some unique vintage selections. Most days you might even see their children frolicking there.
Cruz del Sur, José Ignacio – A most peaceful farm-to-table experience right on the edge of the town square; they also have their own beautiful boutique next door.
La Juana – A cozy local restaurant that makes you feel like you’re eating in the woods, in the heart of La Juanita, just outside of José Ignacio.
Solera – A local wine bar with delicious food to accompany your tastings, also just above the rotary to pueblo José Ignacio, a great local hub.
Chiringuito Francis Mallmann – Just a mile or so outside of José Ignacio, you’ll find a wooden path that will take you directly to Francis’ little beach oasis, just steps from the ocean. His team cooks for you on the fire out of a couple little cabanas with some of the most delicious bites and wines, while you embrace the true nature of this landscape.
Restaurant Garzón – Francis’ very special jewel in the heart of Garzón, at the far end of the local plaza. Once a very simple gaucho pueblo, the inclusion of this little open fire restaurant/inn brought attention to this picturesque pueblo, and with it a torrent of artists and creatives looking for a space away from the madding crowd. Friends moved in to share in the wonderful culinary and creative experience, which has made for a unique and special place in this magnificent countryside. Food is quintessential Mallmann in a most warm, elegant, yet rustic setting.
Mesa Garzón, Pueblo Garzón – Run by two Francis Mallmann veterans, Chef Lucia Soria and Nicole Tuvi, this little supper club delivers extraordinary culinary experiences in various locations in Garzón during the month of January. Not to be missed! They host special events mostly in January by two of Francis Mallmann’s veteran chefs and FOH people, Lucia and Sofia; it’s experiential and they move to different locations for the events.
Casa Zinc, Salon Numero Tres (SN#3), La Barra near Punta del Este – Antique store extravaganza with a little cafe inside serving yummy, thoughtful food for breakfast, lunch and dinner, delicious coffees and deserts. Full of design books, owner Aaron Hojman is a unique creative and a most charming host.
Cafes
Cafe Rizoma, José Ignacio – Part bookstore, part adorable coffee bar with yummy food and pastries, just outside of pueblo José Ignacio.
Carmen Tienda y Cafe, Pueblo Garzón – Francis Mallmann’s daughters, Ambar and Allegra, created this whimsical tienda of hand selected couture, books, ceramics and unique art pieces in a lovely courtyard across from Francis’ Restaurant Garzón. His wife Vanina opened a jewel of a cafe at the entrance to the courtyard, offering wonderful pizzas, coffees and pastries all day.
Art Galleries
The drive south of José Ignacio toward Punta del Este offers a plethora of private art galleries, mostly concentrated between Manantiales and La Barra, with many wonderful boutiques and restaurants as well.
The Atchugarry Museum of Contemporary Art (MACA), Manantiales – A must-see for the sprawling sculpture gardens spread across 90 acres.
Galeria Piero Atchugarry, Garzón – Contemporary art gallery exhibiting works by both veteran and emerging artists and sculptors.
La Galeria Xippas, Pueblo Garzón – Contemporary art gallery
Estudio Garzón, Pueblo Garzón – Creative workshops and photography studio by artist William Hereford.
Boutiques
Boutique at the Shack, José Ignacio – A favorite place to shop, where Isabella Channing hand selects little jewels from the region.
Casa de Las Hermanas, Pueblo Garzón – A dreamy country house boutique filled with beautifully curated homewares and artisan pieces that capture the spirit of Uruguay.
Santas Negras, José Ignacio – Laid-back housewares and fashion that embody the effortless elegance of the region’s most stylish homes.
Bajo el Alma, José Ignacio – Paula Martini’s atelier, known for her gorgeously hand-dyed clothing—artfully made pieces made to be lived in.
Hugo Gonzales, José Ignacio – A specialty home décor and artisan goods shop set in scenic José Ignacio, the kind of place you pop into and leave inspired.
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