​​The Tinos List

Every year when we were at Condé Nast Traveler and started planning our summer lineup, we would inevitably debate which Greek island was going to get the ‘hot island’ treatment. Maybe because they’re so photogenic and generally easier to get to, the whitewashed Cycladic Islands would usually win. One year it was Milos, with its moon-like cliffs of Sarakiniko; then Paros, with its charming white-washed port towns, got the spotlight. 

Of course, the downside of this kind of declaration is that crowds inevitably catch up and they risk turning into Santorini or Mykonos (both of which have thankfully started to address overtourism). Fortunately, there are more than 30 inhabited Cycladic islands, many of which have managed to stay under the radar, with well-preserved beautiful towns, foodways and traditions. These are the ones that most interest us, of course. But because they are relatively unperturbed by tourism, they can be tougher to navigate and find insidery recommendations for. 

That’s where our friends at The Cycladist come in. Cofounders Petros Stamatopoulos and Maira Tagalaki call themselves “global locals,” who spent their summers growing up in the Cyclades and later lived in London and New York—and now run a bespoke travel agency that focuses on curating authentic stays across the region. Over the years, they’ve developed deep contacts which they draw on to create personalized trips and experiences of the Greek isles (and can even take you to the quiet, wilder sides of Santorini and Mykonos). 

When we profiled Petros and Maira in our Navigator column a couple of years ago, Maira described the island of Tinos as being “truly a hidden gem, with over 40 villages competing to be the most charming.” They painted a picture of the marble craftsmen of Pyrgos, the basket weavers of Volax, and the insane sunset views and narrow alleyways of Kardiani Village. It sounded so amazing that now, as our attention again turns to summer and we’re way more interested in what’s authentic than in what’s ‘hot,’ we asked Petros to share The Cycladist’s favorites on Tinos—what to see, do, and eat on this wildly charismatic island.  —Alex Postman

TINOS: THE “HANDMADE” ISLAND

I visited Tinos for the first time 15 years ago, when curiosity trumped habit, and I decided to disembark from my ferry one stop earlier than my usual destination of Mykonos. Up until then, my perception of Tinos was limited to the pilgrimage that happens every August at Panagia Evangelistria – a place of divine worship, named after the national patron saint of Greece – and corresponding images of old women crawling from the port along a carpet all the way up to the church. It took only a few days of exploring to realize how very layered the island is, and how it’s not the kind of place that gives everything away on your first visit. 

Dubbed the “handmade” island by philosopher Cornelius Castoriadis, Tinos—which lies closest to Mykonos, Andros and Delos in the Cyclades—is starting to receive well-deserved attention. From its art scene (it’s the homeland of famous Greek artists of marble carving, including Gyzis, Lytras, Chalepas, Filippotis and Sochos) to its untouched beaches, its 40-plus picturesque villages and refreshing culinary scene, there’s a particular signature to Tinos. The island offers an authentically wild and idyllic Cycladic experience for those who want rest and adventure, and to explore the best of both nature and art.

Tinos’ beauty is akin to its charm — vast and complex. Dozens of dazzling, whitewashed villages can be found hidden in valleys and tumbling down hillsides. Its beaches — some sandy, some pebbled, many ringed by rocks or reached only by dirt roads — feel wild and free. Its rich history and tradition combines Greek, Venetian, Byzantine and Ottoman influences, which has marked the island with a patina of its own.

Tinos also has a quieter rhythm than some of its busier neighbors. It’s where you go when you want to trade the scene for a sense of place. The light is softer, the wind often fierce, the distances longer. We spend a lot of time on Tinos. It’s where we go when we want to remember why we fell in love with the Cyclades in the first place. 

Here’s a list of what keeps us coming back for more.

VILLAGES

Tinos’ biggest treasure is undoubtedly its approximately 50 villages, each with a distinct personality – some polished and postcard-perfect, others time-worn and alive in a totally different way. Traditionally, most were built on slopes as protection from the wind and/or in hidden, high-altitude locations as a means to escape pirates, but you can also find some by the sea. In the minimal Cycladic fashion, houses are whitewashed to reflect the sun and built one on top of the other as protection from the wind, as well as to create connection and community. In a way that’s different from other islands, Tinos’ homes bear the imprints of multiple historical and local influences: some Catholic, some Orthodox, and architectural remnants of Venetian rule. Small enough to visit two in a day, it won’t take you long to enjoy one for a walk, and another for lunch or dinner in one of their squares and cobbled streets, often with unending vistas of the Aegean Sea.

Kardiani – Arguably the most beautiful village in all of the Cyclades. A cluster of white homes built high into the mountainside, Kardiani exudes undeniable charm with its marble-paved alleys framed with plane trees, fresh mountain streams that run through the town, and big-blue views of the Aegean that stretch all the way to Syros.

Pyrgos – Known for its marble sculptors and a deep tradition of craftsmanship and art, Pygros is, to this day, home to buzzing marble workshops and talented artisans. Sometimes, their chisels are the only thing you can hear when walking down its narrow streets. Enjoy coffee and traditional desserts in the marble-covered square under the old plane trees. The Museum of Marble and the House of Giannoulis Halepas (a legendary local artist) are also worth a visit!

Isternia – Another breathtaking hillside village where whitewashed houses and neoclassical mansions overlook the sea. As the sun descends, head to Exo Meria, one of our favorite spots for sunset. For breakfast with spectacular views or an evening cocktail with a vibe, Mayou won’t disappoint.

Volax – Encircling this village are massive, nearly perfect round rocks that create a striking, moonscape-like scene. Just as captivating as the landscape is the village’s rich tradition of poetry, beautifully etched onto walls, homes, and wooden doors.

Smardakito – One of the most scenic villages on Tinos, with an old-world charm and breathtaking views of the valley of Komi. Grab a bite at Katoi, a casual gem that’s known for its traditional Greek dishes and local specialties, many of which are cooked in an open oven with traditional clay pots.

Xinara – Once the administrative capital of the island, Xinara has a grandness beneath its surface with its neoclassical houses, wide staircases, and sweeping views across the valley. The Catholic cathedral and views of Exomvourgo mountain are both incredibly striking.

Ktikados – It may be small and understated, but Ktikados is a delight to pass through – even if just for a short walk!

Triantaros – Built overlooking the hillside, this is one of the oldest and more popular villages on the island, with sweeping views of the sea and just the right amount of buzz!

Duo Choria (or “Two Villages” in direct translation from Greek) – Perched so high above the coast that you might find the whole village in the clouds! Our favorite spot is the shaded main square where local festivals take place. On regular days, it’s a great spot for a traditional Greek breakfast of yogurt with fresh fruit, honey and nuts or fried eggs with feta.

Loutra – A village with many layers. Historically the center of the island’s Jesuit and Ursuline communities, Loutra has a curious mix of Cycladic and Western European architecture. Here, you’ll find old convents, shaded courtyards, and gardens full of lemon trees. Don’t miss the small Folklore Museum or the quaint little café tucked in the main square.

FOOD

Tinos has developed a food scene that’s both elevated yet completely rooted. Don’t expect showy plating or creative gastro concepts. Rather, expect whatever’s fresh, served simply, and grown in Tinos. While simplicity reigns, nothing is basic: Caper fritters, slow-roasted goat with wild artichokes, and rabbit with lemon confit are some of the dishes you might share at the island’s pretty and surprisingly sophisticated tavernas, as well as at a few finer-dining restaurants. The local wines, grown at high altitude in the mountains, are also exceptional. 

To Thalassaki – Perhaps the most iconic restaurant on the island, with tables right on the quay, serving creative gastronomy that focuses on fresh seafood and locally-grown ingredients, with sunset over Syros.

Dinos – Here, classic meets modern cuisine in a beautiful balcony setting that overlooks Giannaki Bay.

Triantaraki – A favorite for a more casual night… Enjoy great mezé (Greek tapas), rakomelo (a local digestive, often enjoyed hot, made by combining raki or tsipouro with honey and spices), in a warm, relaxing space. A great choice for breakfast.

Tereza – Home-cooked fare with real soul, in a colorful setting that feels like it’s straight out of a painting. If you happen to find rooster with tomato sauce on the daily menu, order it!

Taverna Dio Horia – A local favorite where traditional Tinian flavors take center stage. Try the local “choriatiko” (sausage from the village), goat in lemon sauce, and handcut fried zucchini.

Foufou Tinos – In the heart of Ysternia, with infinite sea views, is a new entry worth checking out for their philosophy in pairing simple flavours with high-quality ingredients and a modern Greek touch. 

Choreftra Taverna – A go-to, local favorite for traditional Greek cuisine and Tinian recipes in the unique setting of the eclectic medieval village of Kampos. The honey-baked feta pastry is a must-try!

Marathia – A family-run establishment that’s been going for 23 years, and famed for launching the island’s farm- (or fishing-boat-) to-table scene and elevating local ingredients into complex modern dishes.

BEACHES

Tinos beaches tend to require a little effort — whether that be an unpaved road, a short hike, or a scramble down a path — but that’s part of the appeal. There is a variety of organised and virgin beaches to choose from, with the wind being part of their character in almost all of them.

Agios Petros – A remotе beaсh lοcаted on thе sοuth cоast of Тinοs, neаr Kаrdiani and Kаlyvia. Accessible only by dirt road, the only thing you’ll find here is the small white chаpel of Аgiοs Pеtrοs perched on top of a rock that separates two sandy beaches, boasting blue shallow waters. Don’t forget your book and an umbrella.

Apigania – Wild, untouched, and one of the most beautiful, peaceful beaches on the island. Unorganized, you’ll find it by walking the 10-minute dirt path from the road to Agios Romanos. Once there, you’ll find clear blue waters and a few trees for shade.

Kalivia – A popular beach that’s protected from strong North winds, where you can find sunbeds, coffee, food and drinks from a lively beach bar.

Kolibithra – Don’t feel that you have to be a surfer to enjoy the vibe at this surf-shack-meets-beach-bar. Order a mojito from the iconic pink campervan and while away an hour or two in the shade or in the surf.

STAY

Aeolis Suites – Nestled in the picturesque village of Triantaros, this 4-star hotel is set within 30 acres of olive groves, with fragrant vineyards and a mountain stream. It features private villas, each offering stunning sea views.

Theros – Combining elegant design and warm hospitality with its prime location in the breathtaking village of Kardiani, Theros makes the cut as one of our top all-time recommendations.

Odera Tinos – Perched above Vourni beach, with magnificent views of the Aegean, Odera Tinos is the talk of the island (and Athens) at the moment. With its own private beach and beach bar, as well as two pools, two restaurants, three bars and a wellness centre, the resort offers an effortless escape to guests who are looking for luxury alongside adventure. 

SHOPPING

Tinos is not a big shopping island, but here are a few spots for thoughtful gifts and souvenirs for home.

Aegean Loom (Chora) – Beautiful handwoven textiles by Lila, who also curates pieces from other Cycladic artisans.

Kómpo (Pyrgos) – Jewelry and small objects by a talented local duo that are known for their clean lines and Aegean soul.

Tinos Farm to Table (Chora) – Stock up on local capers, honey, cheeses, and herbs. Everything here makes a good edible souvenir, as well as a thoughtful, locally-grown gift. 

Museum shops (Pyrgos + Volax) – Here, you’ll find a surprisingly great selection of books, prints, and marble pieces.

OTHER ACTIVITIES

Hiking – Tinos Island has a hiking trail network that exceeds 150 kilometers. The route from Kardiani to Ysternia is our favorite.

Basket weaving in Volax – You can still find craftsmen working in the old traditional way. Simply ask around in the village and someone will point you in the right direction.

Visiting Panagia Evangelistria (Chora) – Even for those who aren’t religious, this pilgrimage church is a remarkable sight. The air is thick with the scent of candles and incense, and the atmosphere hums with devotion. Along the route, find small shops offering tin votives and images of aching hearts and dimmed eyes, all symbols of hopes and ailments carried by the faithful.

Tinos is home to numerous marble quarries and the most striking of all is where the island’s rare green marble is found. If you have an SUV or 4×4, it’s well worth making the trip to the Axinoi area near the village of Marlas in Panormos, where two green marble quarries are located. One of these sits right by the sea, where workers once extracted marble from below sea level. Over time, it has transformed into a dramatic, emerald-toned pool carved into the rock — a stunning spot that offers a unique diving experience for those chasing adventure and adrenaline.

ACCESS

Tinos doesn’t have an airport, but is one of the easiest Cycladic islands to reach, with daily ferries from Rafina (2 hours) and Piraeus (3 hours), plus quick 30-minute hops from Mykonos (which is an easy entry point if you’re able to fly there internationally). Once on the island, you’ll need a car. It’s a big island and, along with taxis being rare to find, the best beaches, villages, and tavernas often require a scenic drive or a dusty road… What fills you up from the trip is 100% worth the adventure.