The Saint-Tropez Black Book

I first visited Saint-Tropez a couple of years ago. I am quite sure the reason I was so late to the game is because I was intimidated. Everything I’d seen and heard about this legendarily glamorous town—it all sounded so out of reach. So on that first trip, I checked into La Ponche with Matt, spent a couple of rainy weekdays wandering around, found it to have much more of a fishing village-y feel than we’d expected, and were immediately in love with it. But of course, everyone else is too! Given its deep popularity, especially in summer, Saint-Tropez does require clever planning and navigation, both around town and its nearby neighbors, like Ramatuelle and Gigaro. So I tapped some of our local friends who either live here or have been coming since forever to share their favorite addresses and go-tos—from the iconic to the hidden gems. And I’m thrilled to finally return to Saint-Tropez this weekend, as I’m hosting a launch party for our YOLO Journal Summer Issue and the opening of The Shop On The Corner—a collaborative pop-up of Smythson/Globe-Trotter/Fornasetti/Alessi/Connolly—so many of my favorite brands under one roof!  If you find yourself in the area this summer, their pop-up goes until October 5. —Yolanda

OUR CONTRIBUTORS

ALESSANDRO SQUARZI – founder and creative director of Fortela

“I live in Milan, but I fell in love with Saint-Tropez for the first time when I was 20 years old on a wonderful trip with Harley Davidson. It was at that point that my love story started with this wonderful place.” 

ANTOINE CHEVANNE – owner and CEO of Le Byblos

“I am the fourth generation of the Floirat family. My great-great-grandfather, Sylvain Floirat, founded Byblos in 1967, and so Saint-Tropez has never been just a destination for me. It is part of my family history, and part of my own. I grew up there and I return every summer, the way one returns home. What I hope to preserve through Byblos is something rare: a place where time slows down, where people feel free to be themselves, and where every stay becomes a personal story.”

DYLAN DON – photographer 

Dylan Don is a Munich-based photographer who has been going to Saint-Tropez for 40 years, since he was a baby, as his family has a house nearby. He always spends the month of June here—it’s his favorite time of year, followed by September and Christmas. 

GAUDÉRIC HARANG – hospitality veteran 

The former General Manager of Anantara Plaza Nice Hotel, he has lived on the Côte d’Azur for many years and often finds himself in Saint-Tropez, particularly in April and May. 

KIMBERLEY BLANCHOT – co-founder of August Twenty Eight storytelling studio 

“My father—who lives between Paris and Provence—started bringing me and my sister (and co-founder) to Saint-Tropez in the early 2000s. My grandmother kept two apartments near the center of town and spent the off-season there—she was really ahead of the curve on coolcations!—and we’ve been loyal to the same beach club ever since. The town has changed over the years, mostly the clientele, but the charm has held, which is why we love it best for a quick summer stop, or in the shoulder season.”

KIMBERLEY COHEN – founder and artistic director of Maisons Pariente 

“My connection to Saint-Tropez is deeply personal and spans generations. My grandparents were going there when it was still a quiet fishing village, long before Brigitte Bardot made it internationally famous. My mother spent all her summers there growing up, and we were raised with Saint-Tropez as part of our family rhythm: summer holidays, long weekends, familiar faces of families that have been coming for generations, too. The magic of Saint-Tropez is difficult to explain: the light, the scent of pine trees mixed with the sea, the rituals of village life. Of course it can be glamorous, but I love the authenticity that still exists beneath it all, the feeling that, at its heart, it remains a real Mediterranean village with a soul.”

LAURENCE AND FRANÇOIS HURET – hoteliers and longtime proprietors of Le Yaca

 The Huret family ran the iconic Saint-Tropez hotel for many decades. In its heyday, it hosted the biggest movie stars (and scenes from Roger Vadim/Brigitte Bardot’s “And God Created Woman” were filmed there in 1956), and remains a beloved establishment near the port.

MATTHIEU TAFANELLI GUEGAN – owner of Tafanelli clothing

“I discovered Saint-Tropez with my mother and my father at a very young age when sailing across Port-Cro/Porquerolle. My parents met by selling ‘chouchou and beignets’ on the beach around Gigaro. We are very linked to these places. I started in business in Saint-Tropez with my best friend from here, Jules Paturle (aka Bleu Mon Jules), and began selling my own brand just after Covid.” 

MAX ANIORT – founder and CEO of Le Collectionist 

“Saint-Tropez was not love at first sight for me—it took me a while to really ‘see’ it. The moment I started appreciating the beauty of the place was during the first Covid lockdown—I needed it to be empty to take in for the first time the natural surroundings with the green pines (“pins parasols”) overlooking the Mediterranean Sea and the special atmosphere of the villages. Today, my favorite time of year in Saint-Tropez is still the off season, for the festive weeks around Xmas. I love the ambiance in the village, the crowds with all the families and kids… for me it’s one of the best winter sun destinations, where you can have grilled fish on the beach for lunch but still enjoy a great dinner by the fireplace at night with the fam.” 

MONICA PATEL COHN – founder and designer of Two New York

“The Côte d’Azur has been a favorite destination of mine these last few years, both professionally and personally: scouting inspiration for new collections and exploring with my kids, who are now teenagers. In the summer of 2022, I dropped my kids off at the Mouratoglou Tennis Camp near Nice and took time to explore the coast. In St. Tropez, I fell into the world of Joyce Naveau—her family has been a generational presence there, and she introduced Two New York to les tropeziennes by carrying it at the beautiful boutique at her beach club, Cabane Bambou.” 

FOOD & DRINK

Favorite cafe/breakfast?

Without hesitation, Sénéquier very early in the morning. I know it’s iconic, but that’s exactly why I love it. Before the crowds arrive, you see the crews from the yachts waking up, the village slowly coming back to life, the air is still cool, and the waiters actually have time to chat. It’s when you meet the true Saint-Tropez regulars, exchange kisses, and feel part of village life. And their sugar brioche is a must.—Kimberley Cohen. Early in the morning, I love having coffee on the terrace at Sénéquier before the village wakes up. For something more indulgent, breakfast on the terrace at Byblos is one of my favorite ways to begin the day. At that hour, it is peaceful and full of light, with homemade pastries, fresh juices, and no sense of hurry. They are two very different Saint-Tropez mornings, and I love them both.—Antoine Chevanne. Le Sénéquier for breakfast—Laurence and François Huret. If there’s one place you must sit down in St. Tropez, it’s Sénéquier. Right on the port, front row to the most absurd parade of yachts you’ve ever seen. Order a coffee, don’t move, and just watch the world go by. The red tables are iconic for a reason. A prime spot for people-watching, attracting celebrities and tourists alike, and is considered a symbol of the Saint-Tropez lifestyle.—Monica Patel Cohn