The Peninsula, Istanbul

Best for…  The Peninsula has proximity to a majority of the key historical sights, while being in a bubble of elegance and silence. Great for travelers who want a full-service luxurious experience in a vibrant chaotic city.

The surroundings… The Peninsula Istanbul is in the energetic and busy neighborhood of Karaköy, walking distance to the Galata Tower and the Istanbul Modern Art Museum. It’s also a short, albeit chaotic, tram ride across the bridge to the famous Sultanahmet District, where major sights like the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sofia and Topkapi Palace are located. The hotel is composed of four distinct adjacent buildings (three historical and one new), which are connected on the waterfront side, as well as through the building interiors. The only entrance is via the lobby building, named the “Passenger Hall,” as it was the 1937 passenger hall for cruise ships. The lobby restaurant is right on the Bosphorus, with a remarkably close view of private boats, water taxis and commercial boats coming back and forth. You can really feel the life and commerce that floats through the river. The hotel has its own dock for private water taxis and boats—it’s all an oasis of calm in an extremely active city.

The vibe… Each building has a different feel, and they have strived to keep it that way. The lobby/breakfast area is a large, cavernous, and very bright hall, with an Art Deco feel and enormous chandeliers designed by the Czech company Lasvit. It feeds out to the terrace, where the restaurant boasts a stunning water view.  The landscaping done by Enzo Enea is done to perfection—it gives a relaxed, peaceful “hanging out in a wild garden” vibe, while hiding nooks and crannies that create private dining spaces and garden sculpture contemplation moments. The garden also connects the waterfront of the four buildings. The scents of honeysuckle and jasmine were glorious and overwhelming.

The Administrative building (so named because it was the administrative offices for the cruise port) houses bedrooms—mine was a Deluxe Bosphorus Room, number 1105 on the first floor—the enormous Presidential Suite, and the gorgeous pool and bar area. The Tile Building from 1910, covered on the outside with handmade Turkish tiles, houses more rooms and suites and a gorgeous very Instagram-friendly marble staircase, and lastly there’s the ballroom building, newly built for the grandest weddings and events.

The hotel interiors were done by Turkish designer Zeynep Fadillioglu. It feels quiet and elegant and miles away from the hubbub outside. In fact, part of me felt it was almost too removed and distant—if not for the stunning view of the Bosphorus, you can forget you are in Istanbul. The marble is all from the Marmara region of Turkey, and one of the first details that jumped out was the matte marble on the staircases of the Administrative building. It offers a clear vision of how old the building is, and the amazing life it has led before.

The rooms… Black, beige and gold is the color story throughout. Lacquered furniture hides a discretely labeled mini bar and—happiness—a personal printer. The room was spacious and comfortable and had wireless chargers next to the bed hidden in the cupboard—an appreciated detail to help travelers forgo cords and adapters. The view of the Bosphorus was stunning—I could have lain in bed all day watching the boats go by. The wonderful marble bathrooms have double sinks and a luxurious bathtub. My favorite part is the Peninsula Valet Box, which connects the hallway and the hotel rooms. You can leave your shoes to be polished and/or order room service or any other request, and it’s dropped in the cupboard through the hallway and opened in the hotel room, giving you full privacy. The closet is generous—there is plenty of space for two suitcases, a large hanging area, and a spacious vanity.

The wellness…. I was only able to have a tour of the spa, rather than a treatment, since my time in Istanbul was limited. It is in the basement of the main lobby building with a huge lap pool, which they proudly boasted has underwater speakers. It is a calm and very zen space, covered in marble and dark wood. The gym is quite large, made to accommodate guests and outside members. The vibe in the basement spa is incredibly peaceful, covered in Turkish marble and flanked on both sides with Turkish sculptures.

The food… Since it was a short stay, we only had lunch here, and we were not able to try Gallada, the Michelin-starred restaurant for dinner. The lunch menu at the Lobby terrace was nicely varied, with all the classic hotel cravings like club sandwiches and Caesar salads and lots of delicious Turkish options. Unfortunately, the service at the Lobby terrace restaurant needs a lot of work—multiple requests for ice were made, a simple lunch took hours, the waiters seemed somewhat lost and overwhelmed. Granted the hotel had only recently opened, so perhaps the service has improved since then, but while we were happy soaking up the view, we were also antsy to start exploring, so it was all a bit frustrating.

Extra tip goes to… Umut! A lovely young man who checked us in and gave us a room tour. He was super charming and helpful and knew pretty much everything I asked him.

Be sure to… The pickup service from the airport is a game changer. It is expensive—450 Euros + VAT per journey—but if you can float it, it’s well worth the luxury. The Istanbul airport is huge and overwhelming and arriving and leaving cuts a lot of time out of your day. The Peninsula pickup service has someone waiting for you as you deplane, and who then drives you through the airport, fast tracks you through customs, picks up your bags, and has you out the door in record time. The drop off service also offers someone who takes you all the way to the boarding gate. I’ve navigated this airport about 6 /7 times in the last two years, and I can say that this was the smoothest and fastest process I have experienced.

Parting words… In my opinion, the hotel was newly opened and needed more time to get its legs. While the rooms are fantastic and the view is magical, the service at the Lobby terrace restaurant needs a lot of work. Housekeeping left a very kind letter in the room addressed to someone else (the error was never noticed, not even during turndown service). It’s a minor detail that does not change anything in the experience of the stay; however, it is something that just should not happen in a place of this price and quality. Clearly, they are small kinks that will be worked out with time.

The interior design is spot on. You feel like you are in a Peninsula property, but you also feel like you are in Istanbul. Every Turkish element is incorporated so thoughtfully and beautifully, I look forward to going back and being able to luxuriate in both pools and having a drink in the beautiful rooftop bar!