In short… Located in the quaint town of Braemar in the Highlands, The Fife Arms is just a 2½- hour drive from Edinburgh and is the perfect paradigm of Scottish luxury—with what just happens to be one of the most incredible art collections of any hotel…all while managing to make you feel as if the 19th-century Scottish lodge is your own.
The surroundings… Braemar is pretty much a one-lane town, with classic elements like an incredible fish and chips shop, a shop dedicated to everything you can imagine made of deer antlers and horn, a pharmacy with great souvenirs, and, of course, one of the most well-known and magical hotels in the world. To keep it short, Braemar is an ideal Highlands experience, with aspects of the wild and untouched wilderness, a charming community, and the welcoming energy of the Fife Arms. The building itself has been there for centuries, and first found its popularity after Queen Victoria bought Balmoral, which is only 15 minutes away from Braemar. Undergoing renovation following its purchase by gallerists Manuela and Ivan Wirth in 2014, what was once an old coaching inn turned into a magnificent feat of architecture, hospitality and art history.
The vibe… The lobby is everything you want from a Scottish lodge—two fireplaces, with a general open plan that leads you into the drawing room (with another wood-burning fireplace), through Elsa’s Bar (a nod to Elsa Schapiarelli) and into the Clunie Dining Room. The entire plan of the first floor truly makes you feel at home. There is no anxiety about spending too much time in the lobby or the drawing room, as you are encouraged to while your day away reading by the fire, or enjoying a cup of tea after completing a hike nearby. While a classic vibe prevails in the wooden interiors, the magnificent art collection puts an edgy twist on it, with the common areas of the property dotted with various works by Picasso, Bruegel, May Ray, and many more notable names. The hallways on the upper levels are filled with more incredible art, as well as some very tasteful taxidermy (which, they explained, was all found in various antique stores and auctions, and never new).
The rooms… The rooms are all incredibly different, all with names connecting to the history of the property and the area, and a general devotion to Scotland as a whole. I stayed in Scottish Flowers, a charming corner room on the top floor. The rooms are beautiful with carefully selected artworks that connect to their specific themes. Important to note: an extremely comfortable bed, and a great set of monogrammed bathrobes and slippers (always a plus…). With local drinks, beers and water in the minibar, we were welcomed with homemade whiskey and gin specially mixed for the Fife Arms—another great detail. My favorite detail by far was the small knit bird placed in the closet for guests to leave on the bed if they want to keep their sheets (a much nicer nod to sustainability than the eyesore of a paper card on the bedside table). The room was colorful and cozy, I especially loved the green bathroom, and the ikat lampshades.
The wellness… The Albamhor Spa is a little jewel on property, hidden away towards the back garden. Once you get there, you feel as if you have been transported to a very chic cabin in the woods, with light wooden walls and chairs draped in shearling. The spa has a variety of treatments, from massages to facials and even manicures and pedicures, as well as a sauna on the lower level that looks out onto the garden. The products are all made in Scotland highlighting local ingredients. In terms of outdoor programs, the ghillie team (like a concierge combined with a walking and hunting guide) is always on hand with various walks, excursions, and activities on and around the property. (One thing I did not try but would definitely do next time is the wild swimming!) Special shoutout to the chicest boot room too!
The food & drink… The food and beverage program here is incredible, with carefully thought out menus that feel like they belong in both the hotel and the surrounding environment. The Clunie, the property’s fine-dining restaurant, is fancy but unstuffy, and the food is really great. We started off our first night with drinks in Elsa’s Bar, which was a highlight, with a great bartender and a very distracting disco ball, and drinks designed around the history of Elsa Schapiarelli and her monumental brand. The next day for lunch we scampered down to The Flying Stag, which was Braemar’s original pub, transformed into a more modern version with incredible interpretations of traditional pub fare—really good! On our last night, we drove to Ballater to visit the Fife’s sister restaurant, The Fish Shop, which specializes in seafood caught by local fisherman in and around Scotland. This place was really great, everything being super fresh and local. Breakfast in The Clunie was delicious as well, so good that I opted for the same thing two days in a row—rosti with smoked Scottish trout, crème fraîche and a perfectly fried egg. The more traditional ghillie’s breakfast (also known as a Full Scottish) did not disappoint, either.
Extra tip goes to… Jo, an incredible masseuse and great conversationalist! Special shoutout as well to the entire front desk and ghillie team, who are always there to give recommendations for hikes around the area and are all incredibly attentive throughout your stay. Honorable mention to Brodie, the very sweet yellow lab who is a Fife Arms resident (I guarantee that at one point during your stay you will see him hanging around the lobby waiting for a generous guest to give him a treat!)
Be sure to… Go on a hike! We were sent on the Queen’s Drive walk by the ghillie team, which was about an hour and a half loop just outside of Braemar. We got lucky with the weather, as the walk took us along the River Clunie into some beautiful fields and up a manageable hill, so we could truly get a grasp of the remarkable Scottish landscape.
Parting words… The Fife Arms was an incredible experience and truly a perfect escape from Edinburgh as well as an ideally curated Scottish Highlands experience. The hospitality was impeccable (real Scottish charm) and having exposure to the property’s art collection was a privilege in and of itself!
Date of stay… September 27-29, 2024
Leave a Reply
You must be logged in to post a comment.