The Comporta List

The last time I was in Portugal was 25 years ago, and we only made it to Lisbon and the north—road-tripping through Coimbra, Luso, and the Serra da Estrela mountains. I’d always wanted to return, especially since we did a story on Comporta when I was at Traveler in 2015. So when I was invited to the 10th anniversary of Sao Lourenco do Barrocal, I put it in my calendar and built a week-long trip around it. We rented a car in the Lisbon airport and drove an hour and a half south to Comporta. 

We were staying at Sublime (you’ll hear a lot about this hotel below), but wanted to get out and find the Comporta that we’d heard so much about. We drove to town, but couldn’t figure out where “it” was. There was a cool-looking gallery and a rice museum, both closed—we thought it must be because it was Sunday that we couldn’t find the scene. The next day, we drove into the neighboring town of Carvalhal where there are stores like Fashion Clinic, which has a great edit of brands from Marrakshi Life to Pucci to Hunza G, and some fantastic outdoor furniture. As we met up with friends who summer there and talked to different people, we realized we weren’t alone in our quest to figure out the Comporta hype. The thing is, it doesn’t have one central main street that is lined with shops next to cafes next to restaurants—it’s spread out and the people who love it and go there repeatedly are usually staying in houses, not out and about trying to find some public scene the way travelers who are there for 2-3 nights do. As soon as I framed it like the Hamptons, or like Stinson Beach, I got it. Comporta is more residential—all the people who have created the vibe it’s known for are spending time in their own (and each others’) places, not hopping around. I wish someone had told me this before we went, so I’m telling you! And to help demystify it further, I enlisted all the Comporta locals I trust to tell me what I wished I knew before I got there. —Yolanda

DIOGO LOPEZ – Marketing Director, São Lourenço do Barrocal and former travel writer

I’ve always taken great joy in helping people make the most of their free time. For quite a few years, writing about food, wine, and travel was the way to do it. Recently, however, this changed slightly: as the marketing director of the renowned Portuguese hotel São Lourenço do Barrocal, I now have the opportunity to showcase the rich surroundings outside the hotel that are filled with master potters, hundred-year-old blanket makers and many delicious restaurants. Curiously, one thing these two universes have in common is the Comporta region. 

In my writing days, Comporta wasn’t the phenomenon it is today, but its laid-back vibe and breathtaking beaches were already famous, especially among Portuguese travelers who saw this area—the Tróia–Comporta–Melides axis—as the perfect summer getaway. It also helped that I had spent summers there as a child. For many Portuguese nationals, Comporta’s recent surge in popularity came as a partial surprise, because many never considered this simple, relatively small stretch of land to become the worldwide phenomenon that it is today. However, given the area’s tremendous richness in terms of culture, gastronomy, and nature, it was kind of a given that eventually, the world would want a piece of it. I mean, who wouldn’t want to swim in pristine beaches, appreciate imposing dunes, hike through swaying pine trees, or enjoy the best seafood, fish, and meat? 

EAT & DRINK

Canalha Comporta – Celebrated Portuguese chef João Rodrigues opened what is still one of the most popular restaurants in Lisbon today, Canalha, in 2023. The success of its elegant yet laid-back approach to traditional Portuguese dishes caused such a stir that he was eventually invited to open a location in Comporta. This partnership with the Sublime Hotel is in its second summer (it’s not open year-round; the season ends in October), and it has gained almost as much success as its flagship restaurant in Lisbon. Some of the things you have to try here are lobster rice, tomato soup, grilled scarlet shrimp (also known as “carabineiro“), and a hefty dry-aged steak.