
We grew up in the states—New York and Los Angeles, respectively—surrounded by strong Korean-American communities. We spoke the language, loved the food, listened to the music, stayed current with the culture, and always abided by the traditions at home. We grew up spending summers in Korea, visiting our extended families and living life as they did. Being Korean never felt far from who we were and what we loved about ourselves.
When we got married in 2017 and soon after founded Queens, a former Korean grocery and café turned Korean American food company, Korea became so much more than a summer destination for us or a part of our families’ heritage. Through Queens, we found ourselves deeply entrenched in conversation around Korea’s food ecosystem and supporting the work of small farmers and producers cultivating regional agriculture and strengthening the local economies. It broadened our perspective on Korean ingredients and food traditions and our own place within them.
Most recently, we’ve focused our trips researching the country’s traditional soups and stews in preparation for our cookbook, Korean Soups. Seoul has been a great home base for us, a place to return to between trips to explore different regional specialties. The city’s vibrant food scene has made us fall back in love with so many dishes we grew up eating and discover new odes to the classics.
HOW TO EAT AND DRINK THROUGH SEOUL
It’s hard to describe how much the food culture in Korea has changed over the years, especially in major cities like Seoul. When it comes to dining out, Seoul now feels like a multicultural place. Visiting as kids, the hottest news was that a Domino’s Pizza was opening up. Now you can find several Shake Shacks and Tartine Bakeries and even an Atelier September pop-up dotted across the city.
Seoul is an incredibly densely populated city, where it can take well over an hour by car—and not much less by public transportation—to get from one end of the city to the other. Though cab fares and train or bus tickets are cheap, it’s not wise to fill your daily itinerary with activities and places to visit that are spread out across different districts, much like you might think about getting around London or Los Angeles.
That being said, for ease, we’ve organized a list of our favorite places to eat and drink in Seoul within the major districts, which are also home to popular attractions, shops, parks, and markets. Conquer each day by exploring one or two nearby districts. It’s our greatest hits list, thoughtfully arranged to help you maximize your time exploring and enjoy all the best bites the city has to offer. These are classic establishments, places the cool kids hit up, where office workers land after hours, where families gather, and where you might spot a celebrity or two.
JONGNO-GU
Historic center and home to palaces, shrines, museums, craft, and traditional markets.

Onjium – Just across the street from Gyeongbokgung Palace (the former royal palace of the Joseon Dynasty) is Onjium, a unique fine-dining restaurant that showcases the seasons with its modern interpretation of Korean royal court cuisine. The restaurant makes everything in-house—from ferments like gochujang and dwenjang, to sauces, vinegars, and spirits—and partners with local farmers, fishers, and ranchers to support the local agriculture while educating guests on Korean food heritage.
Hyodo Chicken – Located by Gwanghwamun in Jongno, Hyodo offers classic Korean fried chicken. We recommend ordering the Hyodo assak chicken, which is extra crunchy yet lightly battered, and a side of kkwari gochu (dried anchovies and shishito peppers tossed in a sweet and salty glaze). The beers come in a frosted mug, so do order!
Bukchon Kimchi-Jae – The restaurant specializes in mukeunji galbi jjim (braised pork ribs with aged kimchi) and also serves a fantastic cheese gyeran mari (cheese-filled egg omelet). It’s a great place for a homey, comforting meal to relax and fill up after walking around the surrounding Bukchon area.
JUNG-GU
Seoul’s buzzing central district and commercial center where old meets new.

Woo Lae Oak – One of the oldest and most beloved Korean barbecue and pyongyang naengmyeon (North Korean-style cold buckwheat noodle) restaurants in Seoul, operating since 1947. Their bulgogi (marinated thinly sliced beef) is prepared perfectly paper thin and gets barely saturated in a lightly sweetened, soy marinade that seasons just enough not to overshadow the exceptional quality and taste of the beef. It’s best eaten with a bowl of cold noodles and the accompanying kimchis and pickles—all of which are standouts.
Yeongdeok Hwe Shikdang – A classic no-frills, “nopo” or old-school seafood restaurant housed on the basement floor of an office building that’s bustling with office workers and regulars. You can expect a lively crowd by 6:00 pm of folks ready for a post-work soju and eager to dig into a plate of their famous raw fish platters, particularly the mulhoe (cold raw fish served with Asian pear, cucumbers, alliums, fresh herbs and gochujang vinaigrette). Save room for the dongtae maeun tang (spicy Alaskan pollock stew), which will cure a hangover before it even starts.
Seoryung – A relatively new but highly popular cold-noodle restaurant that makes their own buckwheat noodles in house and serves a tight, but well executed menu of traditional dishes like je yuk (braised pork jowl), mandoo (handmade steamed dumplings), and naengsu ban (chilled beef broth over rice). It’s located across from Namdaemun market, so you can expect a crowd at any time of the day.
Jinju Hoegwan – A very popular restaurant that specializes in kong guksu (cold soy milk broth over wheat noodles)—a traditional Korean summer dish. The broth is thick, velvety, and creamy and tastes rich in flavor yet surprisingly light. Jinju Hoegwan is the perfect place for a quick bite; there’s often a queue but rest assured—it’s a massive restaurant (two floors) with plenty of seats. You’ll be in and out in under half an hour, easy.
YONGSAN-GU
Galleries, concept cafes, eclectic boutiques, and cultural diversity.

Wildduck Canteen – A hip natural wine bar with one of the most extensive wine lists in the country. Wildduck is a well-regarded destination among natural wine connoisseurs and serves globally inspired small plates using local ingredients. The food has become a focus of the restaurant in recent years; they regularly host visiting chefs from around the world for residencies lasting a few weeks at the restaurant and serve a rotating a la carte menu. For cocktails and where-the-cool-kids-hang-out vibe, you can also check out their sister bars, Mi Sarang Bar and Hills & Europa, just down the street.
Namyeongdon – While there’s no shortage of pork-focused barbecue restaurants in Seoul, Namyeongdon stands out in its top-quality of meat cuts cooked over scorching hot charcoal. The pork belly is a crowd pleaser, but the jowl is what you’re there for.
Otto Kimbap – A takeaway spot for kimbap (seaweed rice roll filled with vegetables, cooked seafood, or meat) that serves a concise menu of classic and contemporary favorites. We love how their kimbaps taste very fresh and tightly packed with lightly seasoned ingredients.
GANGNAM-GU
Luxury boutiques, designer shopping, and stylish dining.

Gadam – Korean-Chinese cuisine originated around the late 19th century in Incheon, a port city east of Seoul through migration and trade and has since been a major part of Korean cuisine and culture. Gadam has been serving authentic Korean-Chinese dishes for over 30 years and has become a place for family gatherings and celebrations and a favorite among regulars and celebrities. Get the nanja wanseu (deep-fried crispy meatballs), gaesal haemul yori (crab meat and egg white gravy over stir-fried vegetables), kkanpoong saewoo (sweet and spicy fried prawns), and a bokkeum bap (fried rice) for the table to soak up all of the delicious sauces.
Superpan – Run by chef Woo Jung Wook and her husband, Superpan is a modern hansik (traditional Korean cuisine) restaurant housed in an expertly designed, cozy, and contemporary interior space. The menu draws inspiration from the familiar flavors and dishes of chef Woo’s childhood and manages to honor tradition while experimenting with it, too. Superpan is the perfect place for a date night in Seoul or simply a solo meal that feels deservedly special.

GML – Which stands for “Good Materials for Life” is a specialty coffee shop that curates a rotating lineup of the very best roasters from around the world, including DAK, Cospir, and Prolog. Ordering a coffee flight is a great way to try out various brews and experience the nuances of each bean. A smaller second branch of GML is located in Yongsan-gu in the Hannam-dong neighborhood.
Cheongdam Woojung – Woojung is a family-owned and -operated restaurant that offers specialty cuts of premium hanwoo beef and currently has two outposts: one that focuses on barbecue beef offal and this one that focuses on cold beef dishes and spicy beef intestine stew. Everything that’s prepared at Woojung is of exceptional quality; expect pristinely flavored broths, fresh raw ingredients, and well-balanced banchan. Start with the hanwoo yook jeon (pan-fried battered beef) and hanwoo sseuji jjim (slow-cooked beef brisket and tendon in bone broth), followed by the hanwoo gobchang jeongol (beef tripe hot pot). Finish the meal with fried rice, which gets cooked directly in the hot pot with a bit of the remaining broth and decadent bits of offal.
MAPO-GU
Lively and youthful art, indie music, and late-night food scene.

Miro Sikdang – An intimate and cozy restaurant situated at the top of a hill in a quiet neighborhood near Hongik University’s vibrant college town. Miro almost feels like having dinner at the chef-owner’s home, with enough tables to seat maybe a dozen or so guests each night. Miro is run by a staff of two—just the chef and his wife—and has a menu that teeters between classic pub food and traditional home cooking. You really can’t go wrong with any of the dishes, which are all thoughtfully prepared, simple, and delicious, but we always recommend the aehobak gamja jeon (Korean squash and potato pancake), myeongran gyerang tang (cured pollock roe and egg soup), and gabeurisal suyuk (boiled pork loin; must be ordered in advance).
Onlaeng – A compact, counter-seating-only restaurant serving one of the best mandoo guks (dumpling soup) and nokdu jeons (mung bean pancake) that we’ve had in a very long time. The food tends to sell out quickly, so aim to arrive on the earlier side of service.
Fritz Coffee – Fritz was one of Seoul’s first specialty coffee companies to introduce and roast high-quality beans sourced around the world through direct trade. Currently there are four locations across the city, but the Dohwa flagship shop is particularly special because it’s home to the brand’s bakery and pastry program, which are excellent as well.
Koriya – The shaved ice at Koriya has the architectural loft of a pile of soft snow and feels almost too precious and whimsical to eat. It will put every shaved ice that you’ve ever had to shame. The insanely pillowy texture of the ice, which must be blended with some sort of magical cream, melts in your mouth and tastes like heaven. Just as delicious is the dollop of fluffy marshmallow that tops the dessert like a perfect cloud.
SEODAEMUN-GU
Smaller boutiques and cafes with a relaxed and nostalgic neighborhood feel.

Ddo Ddo – A charming family-run pocha (Korean pub). It excels in serving a hyperseasonal menu of rotating dishes that are nostalgic, comforting, and simply done and paired with traditional Korean rice wine (makgeolli) brewed by small producers across the country. It gets busy quickly, even on weekdays, despite being on a quiet stretch of the neighborhood. Everything on the menu is great and worth trying, but the budae jjigae (army stew) is what a lot of folks come for.
Jinmi – Yeonhui-dong is home to many established Korean-Chinese restaurants, and Jinmi happens to be our favorite for a solid bowl of jjajangmyeon (black bean gravy over noodles) and arguably the best yang jang pi (double skin mung bean noodle salad) we’ve ever had. The yang jang pi is made with stir fried pork and vegetables, poached calamari, shrimp, and sea cucumbers, crunchy raw vegetables, and warm and slippery jelly noodles tossed in a hot mustard vinaigrette.
Cafe Maa – A beautiful dessert cafe that offers photo-worthy pastries in a minimalist space with a light-filled courtyard. Go for the seasonal pastries, sourdough bun sandwiches, and soft-serve ice cream.
Dark Edition Coffee – A tiny roastery and coffee bar that prides itself on brewing the perfect cup of coffee. From the pour overs to lattes to their insanely delicious housemade carrot juice, everything at Dark Edition is made with care and precision and tastes exactly as it should.
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