About a month ago, Annie Waterman, a sourcing agent/buyer/photographer who runs AOW Handmade, cold emailed me: “I travel around the world, sourcing artisanal products. I work with buyers (retailers, designers), connecting them to unique makers. This fall, I am heading to Greece, Portugal, Sardinia, and throughout Africa. I just got back from Mallorca and the Algarve. When I travel, I source for new and unique artisanal producers and products (primarily handmade home decor) and always seek out independently run hotels and local food and cuisine traditional to the area [in which] I travel.” Hello, dream job! Luckily for us, Annie is also incredibly generous, and this month she’s sharing her Lisbon favorites. —Y.E.
“Lisbon is a city I’ve returned to a number of times over the last ten years, even more so since I moved to Paris in 2018. I find myself seeking sunshine, nature and craftsmanship, all of which Portugal has to offer, along with so much more.
Here is a curated list of my favorite shops and artists in the city (many of which you can’t find in guidebooks). Because my background is in the sourcing of artisan goods, all the shops share a common thread of showcasing traditional techniques or handcrafted designs. I love that special artisanal touch in things that are expertly handmade. I’ve made these connections over years traveling to Lisbon and hope you enjoy exploring them as much as I do.”
1. Felipa Almeida – Felipa offers incredibly curated and thoughtfully sourced artisanal products, sold a few times a year at her in-person pop-ups. If you are lucky enough to catch a pop-up, it shouldn’t be missed. She travels the country, designing unique pieces and buying from master artists. For something truly unique, follow her on Instagram.
2. Origen Comum– Kathi and Albio are dear and talented friends of mine and the founders of Origen Comum. They have deep insight on techniques and craft know-how and have used their keen eye for design to create beautifully unique handmade pieces for the home. It’s a showroom and their pieces are available for retail. Well worth the visit if you love unique, artisanal home accessories.
3. A Vida Portuguesa – One of the most beautiful shops I’ve seen, run by a journalist who has a sincere passion for preserving traditional craftsmanship throughout the country. It’s not only beautiful but offers useful, reasonably priced goods, gifts and mementos. They have a few shops throughout the city, but my favorite is the one on Intendente.
4. Luvaria Ulisses – The oldest (and smallest!) glove shop in Lisbon, offering handmade gloves which are otherwise very hard to come by. Go for the fitting experience and walk away with a pair of buttery soft leather gloves that you will treasure for a lifetime.
5. Cordoa Sandals – Knock on her showroom door and if you’ve ordered in advance, she will have time to hand-assemble the sole onto a beautiful pair of handmade sandals for you. It can be hard to find a quality and chic sandal these days. I think these are a gem. She doesn’t have a website quite yet, but you can message her on Instagram.
6. Paris Em Lisboa – I know we all love a quality pair of striped pajamas, so if on the hunt, look no further. Paris Em Lisboa’s beautiful shop will take you back in time. They also have beautiful Portuguese bed linens, bathrobes and other local textiles.
7. Ecola or Corcoacia – A must if looking for that timeless wool blanket to be treasured for a lifetime. These beauties are made in the north of the country and support small, family-run enterprises.
8. ISTO – If looking for that perfect linen oxford, ISTO is the place. 100% transparently sourced shirts available in a variety of classic shapes (for men and women). There are multiple locations throughout the city.
9. Caza Vellas Loreto – For that nostalgic Portuguese shopping experience, be sure to pop into this shop. It’s the oldest remaining candle shop in the city. The beauty really is the building, but if you love candles, this is a special gift that also helps preserve culture and heritage.
10. Teresa Pavao – if you are a lover of ceramics, message Teresa ahead of time and she might just open the doors of her atelier so you can view her beautiful and refined collection of ceramics. She has collaborated with many well-known artists in Lisbon and a visit to her workshop is bound to be an unforgettable experience. You can email her at tpobjectosdearte@sapo.pt to set up a meeting.