Lisbon Black Book

Lisbon is the type of city that rewards the wanderer. It’s full of color: sherbet-colored facades, ‘70s-yellow trams, the bright blue coastline, all of it drenched in sun. Wandering down its narrow, crooked alleyways brings you to hidden ceramics studios, city squares where locals sit by outdoor kiosks, and tiles in every color and pattern imaginable. But those who call Lisbon “Instagrammable”— and plenty do—neglect the distinct texture of the city. Though it’s Portugal’s big and bustling capital, it’s still Portugal, where things are inherently unpretentious. Lisbon is neither clean nor polished, and its ornate, Old World charms are punctured with the grit of modern life: construction, graffiti, Lime scooters dropped in the middle of the street. For every wood-paneled apothecary or Art Nouveau cafe serving pastéis de nata (Portugal’s crown jewel pastry), there’s a bar strung with lights that looks more like an urban surf shack, or a traditional tasca where locals spend their afternoons sitting on plastic chairs, drinking wine and watching football. At night, bars spill both dance music and the melancholic melodies of fado onto the streets. (Defined by saudade, or yearning, the traditional music genre makes the case for Lisbon as the City of Unrequited Love.) 

You could joke that Lisbon is just San Francisco minus the tech bros and plus the tiles: trams chugging up steep, scenic hills so narrow it looks like they’re squeezing through, a sea breeze that invites easy living, even the bright red 25 de Abril bridge. And the nearby beaches are a surfer’s dream. But Lisbon is refreshingly devoid of the commercialism that has infected SF (and London, and Paris, and, well, most modern cities). While in recent years it’s struggled to accommodate an ever-increasing flood of digital nomads and tourists, the city has stayed stubbornly resistant to the pull of conformity; you’ll find more faded signs and conserveiras (tinned fish shops) than shopping-mall staples. Just don’t expect things to happen quickly or efficiently here—the laid-back pace is part of the point. For those who embrace it, the city’s warm energy is infectious. Like the hand painted tiles that line its streets, Lisbon is one-of-one.

Our Contributors

Annie Waterman is the Paris-based founder of artisan-sourcing AOW Handmade, which links artisanal producers to global markets. She recently launched a  membership  for retailers, designers, and lovers of craft  and design looking to source unique, handmade artisan finds and brands from around the world; she also offers private artisan-sourcing tours in Lisbon and Paris. 

Amir Mortazavi is a Lisbon-based hospitality entrepreneur and architectural/interior designer by day, and DJ by night. Currently, he is developing a wellness adventure hotel that he designed just outside of Lisbon.

Bárbara Moura is a figurative painter from Lisbon, known for her work with self-portraiture and contemporary unrest. She currently lives and works in Vienna, but often spends time in Lisbon.

Catarina Portas is a Lisbon-born journalist and the founder of A Vida Portuguesa, a store selling the best products made in Portugal. Currently there are three stores in Lisbon and one in Porto, as well as an online shop. As a columnist for the Portuguese newspaper Público, she wrote a column called “Feira da Ladra” (“Flea Market”). She also produced the documentary series “Fabrico Nacional” (“National Manufacture”), about old Portuguese factories, which aired on national TV.  She has contributed to the revival of several old Lisbon kiosks, launching “Quiosque de Refresco” with João Regal. Her latest project is Depozito, a Lisbon shop created in partnership with the Portugal Manual network showcasing traditional and contemporary crafts from around the country.

Claire Scoville is a frequent Yolo contributor and New York-based creative who works with Jenni Kayne Home. Her family has longtime connections to Portugal, and she has been visiting the country her whole life. 

Izabella Bray is the co-founder of The Startup Stack, a discount marketplace for founders building their tech stack. Born in the US to Brazilian parents, she began her career in New York media before pivoting to tech. After five years in San Francisco, she and her family relocated to Lisbon in February 2022.

Julia Coney is a wine writer and educator based in Houston & DC who I know from the wine world; I’ve always loved the way she talks about wine. She’s the founder of Black Wine Professionals and travels to Portugal often. We’re so grateful she let us excerpt some of her amazing guide to Lisbon, which she just posted last week on her Substack–you can see her complete post here. 

José António Uva is the founder of São Lourenço do Barrocal, one of our favorite hotels in the Alentejo.

Lisa Borgnes Giramonti and Meghan McEwen are our friends behind the Substack In Hand. They’ve both been writing about travel, design and craft for years (Lisa for “A Bloomsbury Life,” Meghan at “Designtripper”), and their newsletter is full of meticulously researched travel advice and design pilgrimages.

Miles and Gail Curley, who previously had an ecological farming business in Mallorca, are the owners and proprietors of the Palácio Príncipe Real in Lisbon.

Mary Lussiana is a travel journalist who has lived in Portugal’s Algarve for 22 years and has spent much of that time exploring the country from top to toe.

Naomi Kerpner and Jonas Lucker are the duo behind Studio Marvila, a ceramic studio and natural wine bar tucked into the industrial-creative east side of Lisbon. Founded on a simple philosophy (good clay, good wine, good people), the space is less gallery, more living room.

Sabrina Buell is an art consultant I’ve known for years; she and her husband, designer Yves Béhar, split their time between San Francisco and Lisbon.

Amanda Blakely is a writer who focuses on family travel. 

Vanessa Vodant is a born-and-raised Parisian who moved to Lisbon five years ago. After 25 years of working in fashion, she and a friend started Symbols, a concept store that aims to be a place of discovery, sharing and exchange.