São Lourenço do Barrocal, Portugal

In short… An eighth-generation family estate in the sun-drenched Alentejo that is equal parts soulful retreat and agricultural homestead

The surroundings… Situated on the eastern edge of Alentejo, São Lourenço do Barrocal is so close to the Spanish border that, towards the end of the two-hour drive from Lisbon, your cell phone network might send you a “Welcome to Spain” text. One of the least populated regions in Western Europe, the Alentejo feels vast—rolling hills blanketed in cork and olive trees stretch as far as you can see, punctuated by puzzle-piece-like patches of vegetation in every shade of green and whitewashed towns with terracotta roofs. The Barrocal estate itself was once one of these farming villages, or montes, 200 years ago. Set on nearly 2,000 acres of vineyards, olive groves and orchards, the scale of it all hits you the moment you arrive, as you inch your way down the seemingly endless stone-paved, tree-lined drive. 

The background… The story of São Lourenço do Barrocal dates all the way back to Neolithic times. The hotel takes its name from the barrocais—the huge rock outcrops that dot the property—which once provided natural shelter for wildlife, and later attracted settlers some 7,000 years ago. Fast forward to the 1820s, and it was a self-sufficient farming village complete with its own school, blacksmith, and bakery, supporting 50 resident families with its livestock and produce. The Uva family has stewarded the land for over 200 years—except for a brief period after the 1974 Carnation Revolution, when the property was briefly nationalized and occupied. 

It wasn’t until the 2000s that José António Uva, the 8th generation owner, took on the task of restoring it as a hotel. He spent two years living on the property to truly understand it, and in total, it took 14 years to painstakingly renovate. That slow, considered approach—working with nature rather than against it—is still the hotel’s ethos today. One of my favorite examples: not a single shingle on the entire estate is brand new. Every roof tile (250,000 of them) was either preserved from the original buildings or sourced from across Alentejo and the Algarve, just to maintain the property’s patina. Even Eduardo Souto de Moura, the architect behind the renovation, downplayed his role when accepting an award at the Venice Architecture Biennale, saying simply, “I did nothing.” 

The rooms… There are 40 rooms, including a few suites and cottages perfectly suited for the multi-generational European families who looked like they’d just stepped off the set of a Ralph Lauren shoot. I stayed in one of their Farm Rooms, which were originally the homes of the families who lived here when the estate was still a village. 

The room was incredibly spacious, with a mudroom-like room at the entrance and a semi-private outdoor space in the back. The decor was a seamless extension of the surroundings—sage greens, earthy browns, and terracotta floor tiles baked in the nearby town of São Pedro do Corval. It seemed like every tiny detail had a story behind it—cushions from Monsaraz, handmade pottery from São Pedro do Corval. Turn any plate or cup upside down, and you’ll likely find that it was also made just a few miles away. 

The food… is incredible. I could write a dissertation on the breakfast alone—a massive spread of fresh fruits, breads, pastries, cheeses, cured meats, all sorts of jams and preserves, and honey straight from their own beehives. Meals are served in the main restaurant, and in the warmer months, the open-air grill Hortelão opens for dinner. There’s also a poolside bar exclusively for hotel guests, as well as a cozy bar in the old olive oil mill room.

But you’re not confined to eating at the restaurants—picnics can be arranged in scenic spots across the estate (we had a gorgeous outdoor lunch one afternoon), and every activity seemed to include an irresistible snack. One of my favorite dishes was cozido, a smoky, herbaceous traditional Portuguese stew. Before I even tried it, I knew I’d love it just by the way Diogo, the director of marketing, described it as “a photo of where you are.” It varies slightly region to region, depending on what grows there, so the result is sort of a snapshot of what’s around you (they were kind enough to share the recipe with us here!). 

You also have to try the partridge escabeche, which is José’s grandmother’s recipe, and the olive oil cake, passed down from the pastry chef’s grandmother. Since much of the food is grown right on the estate, everything is incredibly fresh—the olive oil, wine, herbs, vegetables, fruit, and legumes all come from their organic farmstead. And if you’re there during the olive or grape harvest, you can even join in and see firsthand how their oil and wine are made. 

The wellness… The gym is very elegant with a vaulted ceiling, terracotta floors and some of the most inspiring views you could hope for while doing a bicep curl. The estate itself is heaven for runners, walkers, cyclists, and equestrians, with miles of trails and paths to explore. One morning, I went for a hilly run through an olive grove and saw hot air balloons rising through the mist—the most idyllic way to stave off jet lag. The spa, in partnership with Suzanne Kauffmann, has treatments that incorporate her all-natural cosmetics with the estate’s own olive oil and herbs. 

The sustainability… São Lourenço do Barrocal’s long-term goal is to be completely self-sufficient, much like the original farming village that once thrived there. The farm-to-table ethos runs deep, with a commitment to zero waste, renewable energy, and sustainable water management—filtering and recycling pool water for irrigation, among other initiatives.

The beekeeping program is a perfect example of their approach. I’ve never seen anyone as passionate about bees as Fabio, who animatedly called them “so cute” multiple times while explaining their crucial role in the ecosystem. As the sun was setting, he excitedly showed us a hive he found in a tree trunk, and his enthusiasm was incredibly infectious. He even helped design a special dish to prevent any honey from being wasted—catching excess drips from honey dipper sticks (which, of course, is made by local artisans, and is sold in the gift shop). 

Beyond agriculture, they have a remarkable economic impact on the region—employing around 100 people (even more in summer), more than 80% of whom are from Alentejo, and directly supporting many local artisans and producers. From making wine in centuries-old amphorae to preserving traditional crafts, São Lourenço do Barrocal is deeply committed to preserving and celebrating Alentejo’s heritage while ensuring its future. 

Be sure to… Explore the surrounding area. Of course, there is plenty to do at the hotel—even if you’re not usually the type to stay put, you might be here! But if you do venture out, a visit to the medieval village of Monsaraz is well worth it. We also stopped by a pottery workshop in Corval, where incredibly skilled artisans crank out pieces with impressive speed. You might be able to peek in to watch them at work, and then browse the adjoining shop—where the prices were so good, I happily rearranged my carry-on to bring a few treasures home. We didn’t make it to the Estremoz flea market, but it came highly recommended—if you go, let me know how it is!

Extra tip goes to… truly everyone. The service was so warm and personable, and you can tell people take so much pride in what they do and where they work. 

Parting words… They are open year round, and while I’d love to come back and experience it in the summer, I was here on an unseasonably cold October weekend and would eagerly return in the winter or spring or fall too (they get 275 days of sunshine per year!). The smell of distant  bonfires in the crisp air was so invigorating, and no matter where I found myself on the property, there was always a blanket within arms reach to cozy up with. 

Dates of stay… October 24-27, 2024