Where I’m staying… The Bratsera Hotel. The only hotel on the island that has a pool, which makes for a nice refreshing dip after an afternoon at the beach. The best thing about this hotel is its location—a couple of blocks off the port. That said, it’s super quiet at night, which I always appreciate, and the staff is attentive and good with recommendations. We had a standard room, because I waited too long to book a suite, which I hear are the best (natch). Don’t miss the pastries at the breakfast buffet. Next time, I would consider renting a house for a more immersive experience.
The best meal(s) I had… One of the most indulgent things to do on vacation IMO is to pack in as many long leisurely lunches as possible. Ordering a bunch of share plates, a bottle of white wine and enjoying it all with a view of the sea is bliss. My husband and I could have done this for days on end at Tassia’s at Bellevalia. Don’t miss the baked feta with honey, the sundried grilled octopus and the homemade baklava. Also, I am now a Greek white wine convert. Love the super mineral-y ones. Need to find them back home.
For dinner, Il Casta was convivial and the pasta was delicious. (Their bar L’Americano is fun.) The last night we had a late reservation at Omilos, which has the best location in all of Hydra (and supposedly very good seafood), but we were tired and went to a local taverna.
Most fun things I did… Walking to Plakes beach, spending hours lounging at Bellevalia by the sea, and swimming with lunch in between. Book beach chairs early and your lunch table when you arrive. They are so lovely and accommodating. You can get a water taxi from the port there, but we decided to walk (about 1.5 miles each way). There are great paths around Hydra, and I wish I’d had time to get in some longer walks/hikes to more remote areas and beaches. That said, you would have to get an early start as there is no shade anywhere.
There were a lot of art happenings going on while we were there, and one treat was getting to visit the typically invitation-only recording studio Old Carpet Factory. They were hosting an exhibit of the marble furniture designs of on.entropy, where we met the Greek designers Niki and Zoe Moskofoglou. We stopped by the old home of artist Testis nearby that had an exhibit of local artist Tom Powell, and were hoping to catch ceramist Vittoria Berardinoni of @potteryinhyrda, whose workshop was around the corner, but she was out that day.
The book I read… I was curious to try a Greek author and chose Three Summers, by Margarita Liberaki. Written in 1946, it is about three sisters who live outside of Athens before the Second World War, which sounds heavy, but it is not at all. Rather, it is a coming-of-age tale centered around three languid summers. A book that first piqued my interest in visiting Greece (and is the reason Sifnos will be part of my next trip) is The Greek House by Christian Brechneff. The book was given to me by a friend and is out of print, but you can find copies online. Christian is an artist who fell in love with Sifnos and wrote about his journey to acquiring and renovating a home there. I find it very charming and have read it more than once!
The playlist on repeat… I didn’t listen to music once on the trip. Instead, I tried to attune myself to the background music courtesy of nature—swallows in the morning, ocean waves during the day, cicadas at night.
What I packed… I am a bit obsessive in this arena, and start imagining what I am going to pack the minute the flights are booked. (You can see my Substack post on this here.) What worked the best? A Suzie Kondi chambray linen top and white linen shorts for boats and sightseeing. A pale blue Chava Studios button-down and old white linen Toteme pants for day and night, an old The Row black tank and Natalie Martin broderie anglaise pants for night. For the beach, my oversize Rika Studios white shirt, an I Pezzi diPinti sarong, and this Eres maillot, as well as this Eres bikini top and bottom. I bought some Ancient Greek Sandals jellies prior to the trip and they turned out to be a lifesaver, since streets (literally) everywhere are slippery and many beaches rocky. I wore them walking to Plakes, then in the water, and home again. Two pairs of A. Emery leather flip flops (one black/one brown) and Miu Miu boat shoes. For the plane (and a few chilly evenings), my navy Leen sweatshirt and matching pants. For jewelry, my new good-luck large Fortuna pendant along with Il Piccolo Pesce and a vintage coral branch on a chain and my new La Lionessa ring for night.
A thing or two I learned… Rubber-soled shoes are a must every place I went in Greece (and don’t even bother with heels).
The best months to visit Hydra (from people who do this on a yearly basis) are June and September. Though September is windier than June—which can mean ferry delays, etc. Apparently, October is also glorious and everything is still open.
The most important thing I learned is that I love Greece. I had never been, had no preconceived notions, and can’t think of one thing I didn’t like. We also visited Athens and Patmos and loved them equally. I need to come back and make it to some more islands.
The best thing I’m bringing home… Besides memories, Greece was quite good for finding unique mementos. In Hydra, that included some of the chicest, affordable (70 euros) sandals at Speak Out in the harbor. Yes, they have rubber bottoms; a friend has had a pair for 10 years, so major ROI. Olive oil soap from Rafalias Pharmacy; a cute shirt from an Italian brand at Zoe’s; and the simplest 100-euro linen dress from Asproulis Linens, a funny little store a friend discovered that also sells lace trimmed curtains and other linens. Somehow my husband convinced me I didn’t need the curtains. Not sure. The Hydra Book Club, apparently now in a new port space, is filled with unique new and vintage finds, but I couldn’t squeeze one more item into our carry-ons.
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