In short… A newly reopened, tasteful and luxurious addition to the storied beach scene at Forte dei Marmi
The backstory… Originally built in 1899, the villa first became a pensione in the early 1920s, when this broad stretch of beach nestled between the Ligurian Sea and the Apuan Alps began attracting Italy’s fashionable crowd. Pensione America reopened in April of 2025 with an elegant, artisan inspired renovation from Sara Maestrelli, creative director of her family hospitality business, Collezione Em.
The vibe… No kids, no dogs. This is a place to enjoy grown-up peace and quiet only a few blocks from the vibrant beach scene. You can also enjoy boutiques and nightlife a breezy bike ride away. The beach at Forte dei Marmi is lined with dozens of charming beach clubs with names like Carducci, Flavio, Sirena… each with its own personality. The hotel’s private club, Bagno Assunta, is the perfect addition with an easy, unfussy chic that permeates much of Forte dei Marmi, the type that takes a few hundred years of civilization to acquire. The club is an ideal match for Pensione America, making a day at the beach a very pleasant affair. There’s also the Tennis Club Roma, which offers adjacent clay tennis courts (If only I had known!) for those who want to practice their groundstrokes.
The rooms… Extremely comfortable and tastefully appointed. Artisanal tiles and hand-painted wallpaper add a lively touch without drawing too much attention to themselves. The overall feeling is of a creative elegance and simple luxury. Each room has its own terrace or veranda, offering views of a welcoming pool and surrounding umbrella pines.
Food and drink… I had the impression that the restaurant is revving up nicely, and our dinner easily passed the Matt and Yolanda test with astute wine pairings, an excellent spaghetti alle arselle, and requisite fritto misto that did not disappoint. Our chef, Sabrina Pucci, came out to say hello, which is always appreciated. Breakfast under the veranda was also very pleasant with buffet or à la carte options. Almost everyone was ordering some type of rejuvenating smoothie, which made me suspect there’s more to Forte dei Marmi nightlife than I was aware of.
Be sure to… At the end of your beach day, take one of the hotel’s classic bicycles and enjoy a short ride (on a remarkably well-tended bike lane) into town for a drink at Caffé Principe. Great people-watching and the perfect transition into your summer evening.
Date of stay… June 14-15, 2025
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