Paris Family Black Book

We created this post in partnership with Bugaboo, inaugurating our new family travel newsletter, Yolo Junior

I’m Parisian through and through. My sister would argue I’m technically from the suburbs, since I was born in Neuilly-sur-Seine, but it still counts! I grew up in the 16th arrondissement, then moved constantly, from the 2nd to the 10th as a teenager, then a short time in the 7th before settling in the Marais on Place des Vosges, where I stayed for a few years. After some time in New York, I returned to Montmartre, drawn to its faded and bucolic charm, before moving back toward the center, along the Canal Saint-Martin. I now live in the 11th, on the edge of the Marais, a neighborhood in constant motion, often described as the Williamsburg of Paris, and one that works remarkably well for family life.

Being a mother of two girls, Romy-Jane, three-and-a-half, and Louisa-May, 10 months old, has changed my relationship to the city. I travel less (well, I travel differently), and pay closer attention to what Paris offers on a daily basis. What strikes me now is its constant duality: a form of classicism, almost a village-like rhythm at times—not so far from the ‘90s atmosphere I grew up in—and at the same time an intense avant-garde energy, something that peaks during Fashion Week but never really disappears. A duality in its energy and its access to nature; in the way parks, trees and light shape everyday life. A duality in the seasons, each one transforming the city entirely, from autumn leaves in the squares to winter stillness; from spring movement along the Seine to the quiet, suspended feel of August. A duality between Left Bank and Right Bank, between restraint and momentum, and between the East and the West of Paris, which almost feel like two different cities.

Paris today is a city in transition: more open, more ecological, more attuned to new ways of living. It is slowly making space again for children, and you feel it everywhere—in the parks, in the streets, in the places opening, in a generation of parents reclaiming and reshaping the city. There is something deeply hopeful in that, a sense that the future of Paris is being built at their scale.

EAT & DRINK

Weekend/Family Tables

Le Cornichon (11th) – Our weekend ritual. Roast chicken, a proper Bloody Mary, and fries that ruin all others. Former bar-tabac turned effortless HQ for cool families in the 11th.

Les Deux Abeilles (7th) – A tea room for soft afternoons. Outstanding pastries, fresh plates, cottage-core air. A discreet refuge for Left Bank mothers and their well-behaved chaos.

Ora Farmhouse (19th) – Lunch that drifts into a whole day. A guinguette spirit in the wild green of Buttes-Chaumont. Kids run free between river, rides and hills. Then climb to Butte Bergeyre, a hidden village above Paris, almost rural, definitely unreal.

Le Petit Bal Perdu (5th) – Under the trees on rue Tournefort. Simple bistro cooking, a feeling of elsewhere. The 5th in its most faded and charming vibes.

Hôtel Eldorado (17th) – A countryside illusion in Batignolles. Lunch in a garden that feels cut off from the city. Slow, leafy, easy with children.

Le Favori (11th) – No fuss. Homemade sandwiches, salads and desserts on rue Saint-Maur. The kind of place you end up relying on with kids.

Café du Coin (11th) – Continuous service from lunch to 11PM. Good and easy, perfect for jet-lagged days or late lunches with kids.

Sweet Stops & In-Betweens

Folderol (11th) – Half ice cream parlour, half wine bar. For kids and adults alike. To lick & to sip.

Carette, Place des Vosges (3rd) – Always. Take away macarons and tiny sandwiches, sit on the grass. Fountains in the background, Paris at its softest.

Market Life 

Marché d’Aligre (12th) / Marché de la Bastille (11th) / Marché du Président Wilson (16th) / Marché des Enfants Rouges (3rd) / Marché Raspail (6th) Markets are always a good idea, especially with kids. You wander, taste, discover new flavors and smells. Parisian markets have that effortless buzz. Oysters, accras, falafels, a glass of white if you want. Or just a basket for a picnic or a simple dinner. Easy, spontaneous, joyful.

Casual/Edge

L’Étincelle (11th) – Coffee at the counter in the morning. Nems and bò bún in the sun at lunch. Cold beer, crisp white wine or “diabolo grenadine” at night. A place that shifts with the day.

Rori (11th) – Paris-based slice shop with a twist: hot slices, small plates, natural wine. Eat in or take out. Slightly addictive.

Drinks, No Kids 

Cravan (6th)/La Jaja (2nd)/Combat (19th)/La Patate Douce Radio (3rd)
For when the kids are elsewhere. Good drinks, low lights, the right kind of noise.

Date Night

À la Renaissance (11th) – Dirty martinis, bistronomy, a crowd that knows why it’s here.

Le Cheval d’Or (19th) – A former Belleville dive turned razor-sharp sino-bistrot. Michelin-starred, quietly spectacular. Ultra-precise cooking, bold Franco-Chinese dialogue, no concessions. A niche address people travel for.

Sugaar (6th) – For carnivores and late conversations. Dim, smoky, unapologetically Parisian. To see and be seen.

Special Occasions 

Langosteria, Cheval Blanc (1st) – Perched above the Seine. A wider, brighter Paris. In summer, the terrace is almost too beautiful.

La Poule au Pot (1st) – Classic, intimate, quietly spectacular food. Paris, the way it used to whisper.

Le Président (19th) – A Belleville institution. Round tables, lively service, lacquered duck to share. Perfect with older kids or teens. Karaoke, loud, fun, slightly chaotic. Great for birthdays. Unusual, playful, different.

Hôtel Particulier Montmartre (18th) – Hidden on avenue Junot. Garden, lime trees, unexpected cool air in summer. Perfect for a slow early evening drink while kids play in the garden.

EXPLORE

La Maison des Histoires (6th & 11th) – Immersive space for children based on well-known books. Interactive sets, costumes, and play areas. Designed for kids to move, touch, and engage with stories.

Le Jardin d’Acclimatation (Neuilly-sur-Seine) – Very chic family amusement park in the Bois de Boulogne. Rides, playgrounds, a small farm and open spaces. Easy to spend a full afternoon.

Parc Floral & Ferme du Bois de Vincennes (12th) – Large park with playgrounds, seasonal flowers, and open lawns. The nearby educational farm lets kids see animals and learn about nature.

Parc du Luxembourg (6th) / Parc des Buttes-Chaumont (19th) / Parc Montsouris (14th) / Parc Monceau (17th) – Major Paris parks with playgrounds and space to run. Luxembourg has sailboats and trampolines. Buttes-Chaumont has hills and views. Montsouris is quieter and more local. Parc Monceau is more central and polished.

Carousels/“Manèges” – Located across the city, often near parks and main squares. Simple activity, easy stop with younger kids.

Marais Squares (Place des Vosges, Parc Royal, Anne Frank Garden) (3rd & 4th) – Small central gardens with playgrounds and benches. Good for breaks between visits in the Marais.

Ménagerie du Jardin des Plantes & Grande Galerie de l’Évolution (5th) – Historic small zoo with a variety of animals. The nearby gallery features large-scale natural history displays/dinosaurs and is very visual for children.

Flash Invader App – Mobile app that turns the city into a game. Kids look for street art mosaics, scan them, and collect points.

Versailles, Le Petit Trianon et le Hameau de la Reine – Large palace and gardens just outside Paris. The Trianon area is more accessible with kids, with smaller buildings and open spaces. Le Hameau de la Reine feels like a small countryside village, with cottages, animals, and paths to explore.

Maison Né (mother & baby yoga) (12th) – Studio offering yoga classes adapted for mothers and babies. Calm setting, small groups.

Les Nymphéas, Musée de l’Orangerie (1st) – Monet’s large-scale water lily paintings displayed in oval rooms. Short visit, calm environment.

Musée de Montmartre & its garden (18th) – Small museum on Montmartre hill. Includes a quiet garden and café, good for a break after walking the area.

Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie (19th) – Large science museum with interactive exhibitions. Includes the Cité des Enfants, a dedicated hands-on space for different age groups. Good for a half or full day.

Cirque d’Hiver Bouglione – Historic circus on the edge of the Marais, run by the same family for generations. A beautiful venue with striking light, strong staging, and carefully crafted costumes. The shows are lively, thoughtful, and modern (with no animals).

SHOP

Bonton (3rd) – Concept store for kids. Toys, clothes from baby to teen, plus a kids’ hair salon and an iconic photobooth. Easy, fun, all in one place.

Moulin Roty (11th) – Wooden toys, soft objects, Montessori-inspired games. Well-made, thoughtful, designed to last.

Pain d’Épices (9th) – A cult toy shop hidden in a covered passage. Entirely dedicated to dollhouses and miniatures. Furniture, accessories, incredibly detailed pieces. Fascinating for kids and adults alike.

L’Enfant Lyre (11th) – Children’s bookstore with a strong selection. Personal, thoughtful recommendations and a real focus on quality books.

Le Bon Marché (6th) – Paris institution. The children’s floor is worth a visit for both toys and clothing. During Christmas, the window displays are especially beautiful.

Centre Commercial Kids (10th) – In one of the coolest parts of Paris, on the corner of rue de Marseille. A curated selection of clothing and toys with a strong focus on outdoor play.

Si Tu Veux Jouer, Galerie Vivienne (2nd) – A beautifully curated toy shop inside the Galerie Vivienne, near Palais-Royal. Wooden games, smart objects, well-designed toys. A stop worth making in one of the most elegant covered passages in Paris, perfect for a rainy day stroll.

Marin Montagut (6th) – Artist studio and boutique filled with illustrated objects, stationery, ceramics, and small curiosities. Great with slightly older kids who like drawing, art, and beautiful details.

Deyrolle (6th) – An iconic cabinet of curiosities in Saint-Germain. Taxidermy, insects, shells, scientific objects. A true Paris institution. Fascinating, slightly surreal, and unforgettable for kids.

SHOP (FOR ME)

My style leans quite simple—APC denim, a Petit Bateau white T-shirt, Converse—but I like to elevate it with one strong vintage piece, a Fendi Baguette, a pair of Manolo mules, or something with a bit of history.

Le Marais vintage circuit (3rd & 4th) – Around rue de Turenne and rue des Tournelles, some of the best vintage in Paris. Less “friperie,” more curated, almost gallery-like spaces. The Selection, The Room and Odetta are my go-tos for beautifully sourced designer pieces.

Elsewhere in Paris – Husbands (2nd) for my husband’s suits, quite literally the name says it all. Impeccable tailoring, a sharp silhouette, and just the right amount of attitude. And Rubirosa (7th) for shirts: crisp, sensual, and perfectly cut.

STAY

Le Château Voltaire (1st) – Very central, easy to move between Left and Right Bank. Refined interiors, strong sense of detail, seamless service. A polished, reliable base with kids.

La Fantaisie Paris (9th) – Rooftop and private garden in the heart of Paris. Playful design, softer luxury, works well with families.

Le Bristol Paris (8th) – A true Paris icon. Grand, elegant, and surprisingly easy with children. Spacious suites, a beautiful indoor pool, and thoughtful details throughout.

Pavillon de la Reine (3rd) – Hidden behind Place des Vosges. Quiet courtyard, classic Paris feel. Discreet luxury, very calm, ideal with children.

Ambroise Collection (Paris & Saint-Germain) – A selection of private apartments to rent, somewhere between high-end hospitality and a true home. Art-filled spaces with rare objects, exceptional furniture, and a strong curatorial eye. Designed as collector’s houses. Unique, immersive, and ideal for families wanting space with a more elevated feel.

OTHER INTEL

Cargo Bikes – The best way to get around Paris with kids, and to experience the city like locals, is by bike. Several services offer cargo bikes or bikes with child seats for a day or a few days, including Welgo, Cococharge and Paris à Vélo.

G7 Taxi – With the app, you can request a van or a taxi with child seats. Reliable, easy, and a real lifesaver with young kids.

Pharmacies – Green crosses everywhere. Open late, extremely helpful, and often the fastest solution for anything from fever to forgotten essentials.

Rain plan – Covered passages (like Galerie Vivienne) are perfect for rainy days. Dry, beautiful, and easy to explore with kids.

Bibliothèques de la Ville de Paris – A slightly underrated option. Public libraries are everywhere across the city and easy to access. On rainy days, they’re perfect to stop with kids, to read, and slow down. Many have international sections with English books.