There is something mysterious about the desert that pulls me back again and again—and the traffic-laden drive from Malibu has very little to do with it. My connection to this place predates my California life entirely. I first visited as a tween, a stop on a great family road trip, driving our woody wagon all the way from small-town Ontario and rolling into Palm Springs tired, hot and expectant. My memories belong to the nineties: night swimming, mini-golf, a Wet ’n’ Wild water park, souvenir shops packed with sun-faded postcards, tuna sandwiches at a diner counter, and sickly sweet Shirley Temples at happy hour.
Over the years, the trips multiplied. Proximity helps, but so does my little brother’s timeshare in Palm Desert. It is our official desert home now; last winter, when the LA fires forced us to evacuate, this is where we immediately decamped.
The geography is stunning—a wide basin framed by the soulful San Jacinto and Santa Rosa mountains, serving up views from every direction. The roots here run deep; the Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians have called this region home for over a thousand years. Long before the modern biohacking trend, it was a destination for wellness—back in the early 1900s, the Desert Inn was founded as a sanatorium for respiratory issues. By the 1930s, the valley lured Hollywood elites because it fell within the studios’ strict “two-hour rule,” which forbade talent from traveling beyond a two-hour radius of Los Angeles.
We know it now as a modernist mecca, thanks to architects like Albert Frey, Donald Wexler and E. Stewart Williams, who developed a style known as Desert Modernism. But it also happens to be a perfect host for parents and their off-“spring.” The arid climate pairs beautifully with the natural daily rhythms of kids. You get out early to relish the morning before the harsh sun chases you toward the shade and an afternoon nap. There is so much to see and do, so let’s get into it.
EAT & DRINK
Breakfast
Norma’s for all-day breakfast at The Parker.
Wilma & Frieda (Palm Desert) – No reservations and usually a long wait but their breakfast and brunches are always worth the wait. They have a location in PS but we prefer the PD option.
Brunch at Cheeky’s, a Palm Springs institution. With an on-premise pastry chef and a kitchen team who source local and seasonal ingredients, it gets pretty packed on weekends so be prepared to wait.
King’s Highway is a “roadside” diner at the Ace Hotel that used to be a Denny’s. The menu is full of delicious comfort food. Go for the bottomless Arnold Palmers and the All-Day breakfast.
Caffeinate
Lunch
Head to Palm Desert to enjoy a casual lunch at Tommy Bahama and a stroll down El Paseo Drive for some window shopping and gelato at La Dolce Piccola Gelateria.
Escena Grill at the Escena Golf Club – Admittedly, not the most culinary experience, but go for the insane view (they serve breakfast, lunch and dinner). Definitely not your typical golf club. The clubhouse architect took inspiration from all the modernist buildings around PS. Best view of the mountains and the kids love running around on the beautiful lawn before and after a meal.
On-the-go lunch at Gabinos Creperie is one of our go-tos—their ranch chicken salad is a thing of dreams, but our boys love all the variations on the savory crepe.
Sherman’s Deli & Bakery – Another desert institution (with locations in Palm Desert and Springs). We’ve been coming here since our kids were in diapers. Stick with deli classics and save room for dessert.
Chef Tanya’s Kitchen for fresh and colorful vegan fare, a location in both Palm Desert and Springs.
Dinner
Rooster and the Pig – For a modern riff on Vietnamese. Every dish is bright, fresh and addictively delicious!
Workshop Kitchen & Bar – Michelin-recommended and James Beard awarded. Don’t sleep on this former cinema-turned-workshop/restaurant for unique, beautifully prepared and presented food. Their patio is a magical oasis from the main strip.
Birba – Great little Italian spot by the same owners as Cheeky’s. On a cool desert evening the heat lamps give off a cozy and welcoming glow on the patio. The wood fired pizzas and tri-color salad are our go-to order. The desserts are also worth the indulgence, or wander down to Gelato Granucci for some Sicilian pistachio gelato.
Sandfish Palm Springs – Known for their amazing omakase, but their take on Taco Tuesday is worth marking the calendar for, as is their happy hour (M–T, 4:30–6:00 PM for small bites of all their signature dishes, washed down with a cold Sapporo or whiskey sour).
Melvyn’s at the Ingleside Estate – A Palm Springs institution and an official city landmark. Frank Sinatra and the Rat Pack were regulars, and the place doesn’t seem to have changed much since. Waiters still wear formal tuxedos and serve the tables in tandem. A trip back in time!
The Heyday – For smash burgers and a martini—be sure to order the late night fries.
Chicken Ranch – The ultimate casual lifesaver when you need a quick, delicious meal that everyone can agree on. Their farm-to-table rotisserie chicken and massive salads are perfect for a low-key patio lunch.
Date Night
Bar Cecil – A stylish wine bar (with some bites).
Del Rey – Inside the Villa Royale—with a welcoming oak and marble bar, enjoy tapas and tipples.
Mr. Lyons – A steakhouse with many photogenic corners and a mean martini.
EXPLORE/PLAY
Living Desert Zoo and Gardens – A must-do, mostly because you can get incredibly close to the animals, like feeding giraffes right out of your hands or walking alongside hopping wallabies. Just make sure to go first thing in the morning when the animals are active and the desert heat hasn’t kicked in yet. If you go on a hot day, pack bathing suits for the oasis splash pad (open 8 am–1 pm).
Offroad Rentals – Such a fun, wonderfully ridiculous activity that’s perfectly positioned right on the way in or out of town. It’s the ultimate pit stop to let anyone ages six and up rip around the desert on quads and completely tire themselves out before the car ride.
Hiking
Araby Trail – For great views of the Coachella Valley. The cherry on the top of this hike is a five-star view of the infamous Bob Hope lair. More amazing hikes here.
The Palm Springs Aerial Tramway – One of those classic things you just have to do, mostly because riding up the mountain in a giant, rotating cable car is an absolute thrill for kids. Once you hit the top, you’re suddenly standing in a crisp, pine-scented forest with hiking trails and insane views of the entire desert floor below. Be sure to go first thing in the morning to avoid a long wait in line. It’s such a stark contrast between the altitude at the top that you may even be able to throw snow balls.
Joshua Tree National Park – To unplug, hike, climb some big rocks and watch the moon rise over the desert.
Palm Springs Art Museum – Full of celebrated modern and contemporary artists and located right downtown, it’s a great morning or afternoon activity.
Boomers in Cathedral City is pure, unpretentious nostalgia. It’s the ultimate spot to let the kids loose for an afternoon of old-school mini golf, go-karts and arcade games. We can barely drive past without begging and pleading from the back seat to visit!
Palm Springs Air Museum – For any aviation-obsessed kids (or adults)—you can even book a ride in one of their vintage warbirds!
Palm Springs Surf Club – A recent discovery for our crew, and it works equally well for teens/tweens as it does for younger kids. One section offers engineered ocean-style surf waves (reservations required). The rest of the club is an elevated waterpark with a massive lazy river, a few waterslides, and a large pool area. You can book a cabana, or if you kids are old enough like ours, grab a table on the terrace of the restaurant and sip a cold glass of rosé while you watch them completely exhaust themselves for hours on end.
Booking a junior clinic or private lesson at the Indian Wells Tennis Garden is an absolute must for kids who play (or have ambitions to learn the game). There is something incredibly cool about letting them work on their serve and run drills on the exact same world-class courts where the pros play the BNP Paribas. Plus, it’s a great way to sneak some high-caliber sport into a family desert trip.
SHOP
There are tons of beautiful design and furniture shops in PS, but expect to pay dearly for the perfectly finished and curated modernist items. Someone turned us onto The Estate Sale Co., a consignment store full of estate jewelry and furniture. They receive new items daily, so you never know what you might find.
Palm Springs Vintage Market – Boutique vintage flea market on the first Sunday of the month October–May that is worth planning a visit around. A fun place to treasure hunt.
Curated vintage and makers mart – For a great curation of furniture, clothing, art and decor we always like to pop by The Shops at 1345, a well-edited design collective.
Village Fest – The weekly night market takes place every Thursday evening and is always worth a visit if your kids are old enough to stay awake after dark. They close down several blocks of Palm Canyon Drive and transform it into a pedestrian-only zone featuring over 200 vendors (local artisans, street food and live entertainment).
SLEEP
The Parker Palm Springs – The sprawling, maze-like grounds feel like a lush, real-life secret garden where your kids can burn off energy exploring hidden pathways, while family-friendly lawn games like giant chess and croquet keep everyone entertained for hours. Our kids loved the zero-edge pools for playing and splashing when they were wee. And Parker’s newly added padel setup and classic clay tennis courts are as stylish as they are fun.
The Drift – Offering spacious multi-bedroom suites (ranging from 1 to 4 bedrooms) with full kitchens and separate living areas and balconies, this is more like having your own self-service apartment in the heart of Palm Springs. You’re an easy walk to the weekly night market, the Palm Springs Art Museum, and all the shops and restaurants on the main drag.
Casa Cody – A family-friendly oasis with a heavy dose of historic soul. As the oldest operating hotel in Palm Springs, its sprawling, hacienda-style grounds feel like a welcoming family estate, complete with edible gardens where kids can spot ripening citrus and expansive lawns made for unstructured playtime. With spacious, multi-bedroom adobe casitas (with full kitchens), two refreshing pools, and a peaceful location tucked right against the San Jacinto mountains—yet just steps from downtown—we love this slow-paced sanctuary that feels like a home away from home.
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