Northern Portugal

I’ve spent a lot of time in Portugal over the years, but this past December curiosity led me to the north of the country, which was totally new to me. It’s an area that’s captured my imagination for some time as I work with a number of textile producers in the region. While planning the trip, I made sure to sneak in stays at two boutique hotels that have been on my list for quite some time: Quinta da Corte in the Douro Valley and Casa Das Penhas Douradas in Serra da Estrela.

Wine lovers will adore the Douro Valley – it is actually the oldest demarcated wine region in the world. But beyond the spectacular vineyards, it’s also perfect for those who simply enjoy exploring small villages, wandering in the beauty of local orchards, or eating a lot of charcuterie. Steep terraces covered in vines and verdant orchards pour down to the mellow, meandering Douro River. It’s quite a sight to see, along with the quintas that dot the valley’s landscape, which are small wine-producing farms where you can do tastings or simply enjoy the historic architecture.

Quinta da Corte is a must-visit. It’s an absolute gem, surrounded by its 25 hectares of vineyards. Their wines are almost worth the journey on their own, but also be sure to taste their olives or pick up some oil. Even in winter – when waking up to fog – it was cozy and gorgeous. We would take morning walks through the fog, and then around 10 or 11 the sky would open up to breathtaking views of the river. I can only imagine how it is in the spring or fall. The style of the area evokes 19th-century authenticity, with terracotta floors and hand-painted tiles, both of which radiate a sense of warmth and comfort. I would love to go back and spend more time here.

From the Douro, we ventured south to Serra de Estrella, home to some of the highest mountain ranges in Portugal. The area offers stunning, dramatic views and endless trails that will tempt anyone who loves hiking. If you make it to Mantegias, a small village nestled in this mountain range, you can visit centuries-old textile companies that have been sustaining ancient weaving know-how. Pick up a beautiful throw blanket from Ecola or Burel, two of Portugal’s most iconic heritage brands. Then treat yourself to a stay at one of Burel’s hotels, Casa Das Penhas Douradas. I imagine it’s lovely any time of year, but in winter – due to the surreal foggy weather – it evokes a serene, Japanese feel. After a long walk in the mountains, you can cozy up by taking advantage of one of their saunas or warm pools. The food is incredible, too. The hotel strives to source locally and is committed to creating a sustainable business model. For example, they use local wool to cover part of their interior walls to ensure energy efficiency. Their restaurant uses local, seasonal ingredients area and attracts active travelers to the region to boost tourism to this remote area, encouraging people to get outside and enjoy nature in a respectful manner while supporting the local economy.