Growing up in Vermont, I was always drawn to Scandinavia—the climate, the colors, the can-do spirit of people habituated to serious weather. I was also steeped early in Danish and midcentury design by a family that traveled frequently to northern Europe. Other people’s grandparents went to Florida; mine went to Finland.
An August adventure of some kind has become a family tradition, and increasingly, I’m looking for cooler places (both aesthetically and weatherwise) with few tourists. In addition I like comfort, so when I was connected with Torunn Tronsvang, owner of Up Norway, I knew I could delegate the planning of our 8-day escape to her connected team.
Largely due to flights, we wanted to start in Copenhagen and end in Oslo. After an introductory phone call where we detailed our preferences—outdoor activities but not too hardcore; luxurious-but-not-fancy hotels; art and culture, but not too many museums; “local color” in terms of neighborhoods, cafes, restaurants, shops and so forth—we were all on the same planning page. Torunn then set about executing the most meticulous, fun, slightly outside the box (in the best way) holiday for our group of four. I am used to handling all of my own travel arrangements, so it was hard and strange to let it go, but Torunn assured me that she knew exactly what we were looking for, our fitness levels, food allergies and so forth. The result was a unique road trip that is still so vivid—with all kinds of boats, museums, and memorable meals that will be tough to top this summer.
Coastal Sweden
Gothenburg
We spent a packed 24 hours in Copenhagen wandering Nyhavn and the King’s Garden, followed by an unforgettable meal outside at Fiskebar at 10 pm. Then it was time to head north. After swallowing the sticker shock of the rental car (beware one-way, cross-border, strict mileage limits and a 25% VAT), we made our first stop: Gothenburg, Sweden. We had visited Stockholm once years earlier, but knew very little about the country’s west coast and were quickly taken by this quieter, more manageable “second city.” Nature is everywhere, as are hipster coffee places and vintage clothing shops, so I highly recommend a day spent wandering. But we were really there so my traveling companions could hit the World of Volvo. I am no car enthusiast, but this new museum (opened last year) is an immersion in great Swedish design, from the earliest ambulances and safety vehicles to the iconic 740 series to state-of-the-art models available for purchase. Kids ages 5-12 will love Traffic School—an outdoor driving track where they learn the basics and earn a souvenir driver’s license. The building, by Danish architecture firm Henning Larsen, is an homage to the Swedish idea of Allemansrätten (the right to roam), with spaces made of sustainable wood that makes it feel like a light-filled forest. Pro tips: both the café and the gift shop are worthwhile stops before trying the driving game, Distractville, where reflexes and judgement are tested.
Pater Noster
We spent our first night at Pater Noster—a decommissioned lighthouse and keeper’s house that was built in 1868. I will never stop thinking about this place, and largely for the experience of getting there. We parked the car in the town of Marstrand, where we were met by the amiable Carl, who captained us over to Pater Noster. I knew we were in for an exciting journey, as the RIB boat was outfitted with all kinds of stirrups and straps. It was Captain Carl (straight out of Viking central casting) handing us each an inflatable suit that really got my attention: getting wet was inevitable, but I had no idea what we were in for (think “Deadliest Catch”). The wind and waves were howling, but 5 nautical miles and 30 minutes later, we arrived at this incredible rocky outcropping. I swore I wouldn’t get back on that terror ride for our return trip, and yet 24 short hours later I was a hearty, seafaring Swede myself.
A stay at Pater Noster is unlike anything I’ve experienced before or since. A cozy main house (there are 9 guest rooms), a few outbuildings including the communal dining room, a hot tub and sauna with sea views are the extent of this scraggly island that is the size of a soccer field. That said, every touch is magical: from the freshly baked scones to the Pater Noster wines and beer (made on the mainland), to the just-caught lobster, mussels and cod, a stay here is simple yet exquisite. The sounds of wind and crashing waves—not to mention the total isolation—make Pater Noster a rare reset, where you’ll come to know the small, attentive staff as well as the knowledgeable CEO/storyteller, Mirja Lilja Hagsjö, well into the night.
Norway
Kristiansand
After heading back to the mainland, we flew from Gothenburg to Kristiansand in southern Norway. Incidentally, the only other guests we met at Poster Noster were two women, Norwegian designers, who were impressed that we Americans were even going to southern Norway, as most people head straight for the fjords. They raved about its tiny coastal towns, and it was wonderful to find ourselves in this lesser-known countryside.
Just ten minutes from the Kristiansand Airport, we arrived at Boen Gård, a 16th century estate and manor that opened to the public in 2012. Once owned by King Christian II, it has hosted countless statesmen and was long a draw for Britons who came to fish salmon on the river below it. The furniture and art have been meticulously sourced to preserve traditions that began in 1520, and have since hosted kings and avid anglers, while guest rooms have a Scandi, clean-lined feel. Set in a beautiful park at the edge of the Tovdalselva River, Boen Gård is well known for its Michelin-starred cuisine—think tasting menus featuring herbs, honey, berries, and more grown on the estate. Everything else, including the meat and fish, comes from within a 90-mile radius and they are deeply committed to “New Nordic” sustainable everything—think peonies and geraniums sourced from the organic gardens; freshly caught salmon from the Tovdal river; a house-made flatbread of emmer flour, with smoked cod roe taramasalata and fresh dill; and not a single piece of plastic in sight.
The next day after breakfast in the bright dining room (designed that way to maximize natural light in the long, dark winters), decorated simply with local wildflowers, activities included fishing with the very personable Ryan (+4790915846), followed by a private tour of the Kunstilo museum in Kristiansand. A former 1930s grain silo, it now houses the world’s largest collection of Nordic modernism, and the building is the ultimate adaptive reuse project with soaring spaces and a cathedral-like feel.
Often called the “Summer City” because of its sunny maritime climate, Kristiansand is considered the cultural hub of southern Norway and there seemed to be art and music at every turn. Stroll along the Fiskebrygga (The Fish Quay) and on to the Fountain Park, the city beach and Posebyen, aka the “old town.” Kristiansand Cathedral is one of the largest in Norway and is a beautiful stop for lunch, before heading to Smag & Behag for dinner in an old school gymnasium. If you’ve had enough fish, Mother India is a colorful, family-run classic for butter chicken and excellent naan.
Coastal Lillesand
Our next stop was Lillesand, a tiny coastal village just 30 minutes from Boen Gård, which has a very Maine-esque feel. The main objective here was to do a guided tour of the archipelago by kayak with seasoned pro, Haakem Teland. A literal pro—he was on Norway’s national kayaking team and competed in the World Cup and European Championships—Teland is now the owner of Padlegleden, an outfitter dedicated to the stretch of coastline.
Once suited up, we headed off on a three-hour gentle paddle through islands and inlets and learned about everything from the white summer cabins belonging to affluent Osloveians that dot the sparse islands, to the crystal-clear water (thanks to a strong current and a rocky seabed), to Norwegian politics. (I especially loved learning about their consensus-based, stable model of government, and about the Norwegian Sovereign Wealth Fund, the largest in the world, that supports the country’s welfare state). Haakem is delightful, and I highly recommend seeing the area from the water while stopping on the sandy shores for refreshments and environmental highlights. After a thorough workout, we walked back to the harbor and ate lunch at Strandhaven—a charming restaurant with a patio, more water views and excellent pizza. Perfection on a warm summer afternoon.
Risør
Our next stop, an hour away, was the town of Risør, where our Norwegian friends from Pater Noster grew up going as children. It turns out this stretch of coastline is referred to as the “Norwegian Riviera” for its beautiful summer homes and fleets of sailboats that arrive in summer.
We stayed at Det Lille, which is actually a series of apartments plus one central hotel that are spread throughout the former fishing village. We were possibly the only tourists there—and certainly the only Americans—as Norwegian children head back to school in mid-August. Our base was the small mustard yellow hotel in the center of town, one with the tiniest rooms but the most expansive views of the harbor. The management are proud of their traditions and the head chef led us in a fish soup-making class (which I am sure I will never use again!), complete with Norwegian tunes. Risør is a lovely place, with a harbor filled with classic wooden skiffs and fishing vessels; I would highly recommend it for sailing enthusiasts and cold plungers alike, especially in shoulder season. With the wood-fired pizza spot humming with locals and the sun setting at 10 pm, it’s idyllic.
Before our return to Oslo, we spent the following day aboard the Risør 2, a beautifully restored rescue vessel that was built here in 1914. Like something out of a movie (think rigging, weathered sails, two non-English speaking deck hands), the ship plied the waters of a small fjord past tiny lighthouses and more summer homes accessible only by boat. Our final stop was Moen Trebåtverksted, a remote boatyard specializing in the construction and repair of traditional wooden boats. The enormous picnic lunch provided by the hotel—with sandwiches, smoked salmon, and fruit—made for a magical day spent on the water.
Oslo proved the perfect last stop. It’s a peaceful, outdoorsy city with excellent food and just the right amount of culture. We stayed at the Hotel Amerikalinjen, an iconic building designed in 1919, which previously served as the headquarters of the Norwegian America Line cruise company. The property has been reimagined to retain its maritime ethos, but with contemporary, design-led touches (their breakfast buffet remains one the best in recent memory). From this very central location, you’re next to the famous Oslo Opera House designed by acclaimed Norwegian architecture firm Snøhetta (a walk on this massive, marble-clad roof is a must), the Munch Museum, and best of all, the floating KOK saunas, where locals and tourists alike soak in the clean city views.
The highlight of our 24 hours in Oslo, however, was lunch at a tiny island restaurant called Lille Herbern. The two women—both Oslo residents—we’d met at Pater Noster invited us to join them at this “insider” favorite. A quick, minute-long ferry ride landed us at this truly local spot on a tiny island just off the shore at Bygdøy. A long lunch of oysters, Norwegian lobster, jerk chicken, and corn on the cob with chili and salt—with friends, in this gorgeous setting—was the perfect end to our Scandinavian journey.
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