We created this post in partnership with Bugaboo, inaugurating our new family travel newsletter, Yolo Junior
I first came to live in New York in 2006 to assist the film director Mira Nair, an unparalleled storyteller and a lynchpin of New York City’s creative community. She taught me to always keep my eyes open: to visit exhibitions in galleries and museums; attend lectures, try new things and never stop learning; take an interest in the lives of others by asking them about their own stories; read as much as possible; and above all, stay creative. While I assisted her, I continued to hone my skills with photography and film on my own. I also admired Mira’s mothering of her son (he is now the Mayor of New York City: Zohran Mamdani), and her dedication to family, all while continuing to explore her own creative path.
I went on to live in France and Italy, but returned in 2016 to create my own family with my partner, a lifelong New Yorker. Having grown up here, he was very grounded in New York traditions—but also, like me, always curious to explore and discover new places.
I practice exploration every day here in New York—beyond my neighborhood of Carnegie Hill on the Upper East Side—with my own children, who are 10 and 3. Here are some of the ways I am always discovering my city anew, as a New Yorker raising little New Yorkers.
EXPLORATIONS
Adventures & Excursions
The Secret Station – I love finding the unexpected secrets of New York. For years, I have taken my children (but also friends visiting New York) to the secret subway station: City Hall (completed in 1904). We board a downtown 6 train towards Brooklyn Bridge and—with a hint of rebellion—stay on the train after the “last stop, everyone must leave the train” announcement at Brooklyn Bridge. Don’t get off the train. I promise you won’t end up disappearing into another borough. Move to the right side of the train car. When the train begins to move again, it turns around through the empty station—a marvel of architecture and old New York. The children gasp when they see the station appear and so do I (every time). It is a very quick but memorable experience of New York’s rail history, feeding so many children’s love of trains.
The Staten Island Ferry – My children also love boats, and the Staten Island Ferry in all its orange glory is a New York City icon. The ride is complimentary (and priceless); the experience is different each time, because of the weather and boat traffic. Recently, we boarded the ferry at the southern tip of Manhattan and walked to the front of the boat, where we could stand in the sunshine facing the New York Harbor. It’s exciting how active the Harbor always is—Brooklyn to the left and New Jersey and the Hudson River to the right; then comes Ellis Island, the Statue of Liberty, and a lighthouse atop a little island; small fishing boats and enormous container ships creating waves in their wake. We met tourists from Rome and students from around the country. One tourist asked if we would like our photo taken, and as he handed the camera back, I could see the emotion in his eyes. It was always his dream to come here, he said. Just one souvenir of riding a New York icon and sharing it with others.
The Statue of Liberty – I love to read stories about architecture, especially the Eiffel Tower, to my children. The Statue of Liberty is the only place in the United States where you can experience a structure designed by Gustave Eiffel. Very few people seem to know the interior steel structure, so reminiscent of the Eiffel Tower, holds up the beautiful Lady Liberty sculpture designed by Auguste Bartholdi. So once you enter the internal structure to climb to the top, you are exploring the framework designed by the ingenious engineering of Eiffel himself.
The Roosevelt Island Tramway to Roosevelt Memorial Park – The 4-minute ride on the tram connecting Manhattan to Roosevelt Island offers sweeping views over the East River. Hop on at East 59th and 2nd Avenue (for a subway fare); when you exit on Roosevelt Island, turn right and walk (or scoot) along the promenade to the Franklin D. Roosevelt Four Freedoms Memorial Park designed by architect Louis Kahn. I love the linden trees planted in two rows framing the monument and the views of Manhattan and Brooklyn from the center of the East River. There is an open lawn to play and even an Imagination Playground for kids to use their creativity to build Louis Kahn-like structures.
Central Park – One of our absolute favorite spots is what is locally referred to as the “Stone Slide Playground” at East 68th Street and Fifth Avenue (the Billy Johnson Playground), with a beautiful stone slide. If you need delicious provisions nearby, the bountiful Birley Bakery is on East 69th near Madison Avenue. Continue walking further in and slightly south through the park and you will happen upon the historic Central Park Carousel (at 65th) for a ride. Walking north to The Conservatory Water Pond, you can rent classic miniature model boats to sail; there is a Le Pain Quotidien café for snacks. The Alice in Wonderland Sculpture, beloved by children, is just above the northern part of the pond. There are so many playgrounds to discover, each one a little bit different. One rule of thumb is to always bring some bubbles, sand castle tools and some sort of ball, because you never know when an impromptu game of soccer might break out with kids who meet in the playground. Mary Arnold Toys and Kidding Around are two resources for sourcing those finds.
As the Bridle Path turns northwest close to East 97th, you’ll see a London Plane Tree with a limb outstretched over the Bridle Path. A friend of mine who was working on a book about the trees of Central Park confirmed this is the oldest tree in the park. It bears no plaque, but it is a true witness tree. I often bring my children there to pay our respects while we are walking around the Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis Reservoir Path or Bridle Path. Lastly, just a bit further north, the Conservatory Garden is a magnificent new addition to Central Park: three distinct gardens in English, Italian and French styles. Get lost in all three.
Jefferson Market Garden – I love this garden in all its spring glory! There is a koi pond there that my daughter will gaze at for long stretches while I sit on a bench opposite her. For a sweet break, head across the street to L’Appartement 4F, a French bakery, for one of their pistachio rose croissants!
Culture & Learning
The Metropolitan Museum – As parents know, we are always up early. When you enter the Met at 9 am on weekend mornings (the benefit of being a member—it opens to the public at 10), you pretty much have the museum to yourselves and can explore the collections at your own pace. We enter through the members’ entrance at 81st Street and take the elevator up to the Greek and Roman galleries, walking through the majestic corridors of sculpture. Often, we’ll walk to the American Wing and up to the very top to the period rooms: the New York Dutch Room from 1751; The Hart Room from Ipswich, MA, 1680; and many others that are smaller in scale and closer in proportion to the height of the children. These rooms feel like walking through the Wardrobe and into Narnia, and spark the imagination (of both children and parents). We also love to see the Arms and Armor Collection and Musical Instruments, and often pop by to see the grand piano by Bartolomeo Cristofori—the alleged inventor of the piano—the first of its kind in the world. (My son’s love of piano and music brings him back here often.) I like to let the children be our guides; I find I learn new things about who they are and what they are curious about with each visit. We make sure to stop by the fountain in the American Wing to make a wish (bring coins!). During the week, the 81st Street Studio hosts all kinds of creative activities geared to children.
The Museum of Natural History – Hours of enchantment await at this classic field museum—from the dioramas featuring life-size recreations of natural habitats around the world, to the 16-ft-diameter slice of a giant Sequoia tree (felled in 1891 but 1,400 years old); the blue whale suspended from the ceiling of the Hall of Ocean Life to the magnificent holdings of the Halls of Gems and Minerals. A place to let their imaginations light up and run wild.
Rug Concerts at Diller Quaile – Once a month on the first Saturday of the month, Diller Quaile School of Music hosts rug concerts open to all who purchase a ticket. Parents and children sit on a rug together during this unique New York experience led by professional musicians with real instruments and engaging for the entire family. Each rug concert has a different theme—the one this coming May is titled: “It’s Electric.”
Albertine Bookstore – This French bookstore is located in Villa Albertine on 79th and Fifth Avenue, the cultural arm of the French Consulate. The surprise and delight can be found upon entering the bookstore, which has a narrow staircase up to another level where you will find a room dedicated to wonderful books in French (and English too!), enjoyable by all ages. Look up and you will see a painted ceiling of constellations. It is a space beloved by my children.
Family Dance, Film, Music, Theater – On Sundays, one of my favorite cinemas in New York hosts Film Forum Jr.—a film series curated for children. When the programming is good, we like to take our children to Carnegie Hall to hear musicians like Nobuyuki Tsujii or Yunchan Lim perform rousing piano performances that the boys will talk about for weeks afterwards. The New Victory Theater stages engaging performances that make for a stimulating introduction to theatre arts. And there’s Ailey and New York City Ballet for unforgettable dance experiences.
Further Afield but Worth It
TWA Hotel at JFK Airport – The Eero Saarinen-designed TWA Terminal at JFK (which opened in 1962 at the dawn of the Jet Age) is one of my absolute favorite places in the New York area to bring my children. It’s also a place I have visceral memories of from my own childhood—we always flew through this terminal to Lisbon, until it closed in 2000. It has been splendidly reimagined as a hotel with great respect for its heritage by Tyler Morse and MCR Hotel Group. From the exterior, it looks like a bird taking flight. There are also real vintage cars that children can get in, as well as a Super Constellation Aircraft named “Connie.” Run down one of the iconic, red-carpeted tube tunnels and discover Eero Saarinen’s office to one side and a Living Room with all original furniture, objects and toys from the 1960s to be enjoyed. My son swam for the first time solo at the rooftop pool of the hotel overlooking all the planes, which you can reserve. We will drive out and take advantage of their convenient valet, parking just in front of the entrance. Explore the terminal architecture and original furniture, also designed by Saarinen and manufactured by Knoll, which transports you to the ‘60s. It’s a reminder of how unusual it is to find spaces like these, where the architecture and interiors were designed by the same person, a total work. You can book rooms for a half day, or the night. Stay for a meal at the Lisbon Lounge or Paris Cafe, which offer delicious menus by Jean-Georges. It is a truly magical place.
Cradle of Aviation Museum, Garden City, NY – This is a place rooted in aviation history, located by the same fields from which Charles Lindbergh took off on his 1927 historic solo flight, crossing the Atlantic and landing in Paris. Children can walk through the small-scale chronological exhibits while taking breaks to sit in a vast array of aircraft. There are excellent guides in every room, who are equipped with answers to all the questions sparked in children’s inquiring minds. It’s a fascinating place with a Pan Am Museum on the top floor and a wing dedicated to space travel. Long Island has a rich history of airplane production as well as spacecraft manufacturing, and you get the whole picture here on a truly engaging scale for children and adults alike.
EAT/DRINK
Start the morning
Cafe Sabarsky – Located in the Neue Galerie, the dining room feels more like Vienna than New York. This is likewise reflected in the menu. I like to take the children when they open at 9am and sit in one of the booths by the windows overlooking Central Park on Fifth Avenue. With a warm welcome by their kind staff, we often order their marillenplalatschinken—crȇpes with homemade apricot jam—and afterwards wander over to the gift shop, which has a lovely selection of gifts and books for children. (Upper East Side)
Afternoon spots
Sulla Luna – This is a unique bistro/children’s bookstore that opens at 12 pm every day and is owned by an Italian publishing family with its sister location in Venice, Italy. A lovely place to be during the day—bright and welcoming, with a lovely menu and walls lined in a unique selection of children’s books from around the world. (Greenwich Village)
ABC V – It’s vegetarian and vegan, so the plates are full of color and exciting for the children to experience, a menu inspired by plant-based intelligence. (Union Square)
Pȃtisserie Vanessa – The South of France meets New York at this delightful café, where you feel a sense of calm upon walking through the doors or sitting outside at one of their sun-dappled cafe tables. Fresh croissants, canelés, or a slice of quiche with a fresh salad—it’s a lovely spot from morning to afternoon, enjoyed by children and parents alike. (Upper East Side)
Food Liberation – Just across Lexington Avenue from Pȃtisserie Vanesssa is a family-owned health market that has been in the neighborhood since the 1970s. John, the owner, is super welcoming to children and makes the best smoothies. John loves the Beatles, so there is always excellent music playing and thoughtful conversation. He is beloved by the neighborhood and keeps everyone well. (Upper East Side)
Evening Spots
Bar 91 (EAT at 91st St) – With a live jazz quartet on Friday and Saturday nights in the warmer months, it’s great place to go with the kids and enjoy the music, sit at one of their charming outdoor tables on the corner of 91st and Madison overlooking Central Park, and enjoy a glass of wine and some light bites. They also have a bagel bar in the morning and one of my favorite cups of coffee in New York. (Upper East Side)
Late Nights at the MET – The Met is open until 9 pm on Fridays and Saturdays and they also have a restaurant on the second level of the lobby, which often has live music on those nights. It’s festive and can be a great date-night spot, but also a place to bring your children to be together as a family and enjoy an evening out together. (Upper East Side)
Island – The owner, Chris—who grew up in the neighborhood—and the entire staff are like a scene out of a great play about New York. They are all kind and welcoming; it’s a true local spot with a menu everyone can enjoy. On the way to dinner, you can stop two doors down for a peek into the perfect neighborhood book shop, The Corner Bookstore, with an area in the center of the shop dedicated to children. (Upper East Side)
Massawa – Opened in 1988 near Columbia University, they serve delicious Eritrean and Ethiopian cuisine. We love sharing the dishes family style on one round plate (cutlery optional), with injera to soak up the bountiful flavors (we love the shiro!). Kids are welcomed and encouraged. (Upper West Side)
Eataly – A food hall where the cuisine of Italy comes to life: try the restaurant Pizza e Pasta, where the kids can watch the dough being prepared and the pizza cooking in the oven close by. You can also stop by Rizzoli Bookstore on your way and browse the books in the back room; they have a great selection for kids. I also love their books for kids in Italian. (Flatiron)
Hasaki – Longtime sushi restaurant near Astor Place, which is very elegant and very welcoming to families. They also have a secret Japanese garden in the back with tables. (East Village)
Date Night Spots
Fedora – Walk down the stairs and into another world at Fedora. Candlelight, vinyl records spinning behind the bar—stand at the bar area to the left, which is kept for walk-ins if you have a spontaneous date night or book a table or two seats at the bar or one of their tables. The owner Basile and the staff are the best in the business and care the most about hospitality and experience. (West Village)
Marcel – Candlelight meets architecture designed by Marcel Breuer, with interiors by Roman and Williams Guild—a match made in culinary heaven with the kitchen led by chef Marie-Aude Rose. (Upper East Side)
The Guardian at the W Hotel Rooftop – Impressive perch for a date night overlooking the sunset, facing west over the city and beyond. (Union Square)
Experimental Cocktail Club – A subterranean speakeasy in Flatiron designed by the singular Dorothée Meilichzon of Paris-based Chzon, one of her only spaces in New York City. It could not be more fun, stylish, or unexpected. The staff is welcoming; be sure to mention to the host on the ground level when you enter that you want to go to the cocktail bar downstairs. (Flatiron)
Chez Fifi – Located in a townhouse on 74th Street, owned by two brothers who grew up in New York and created Chez Fifi in honor of their mother and her love of art. The bar and room upstairs are very elegant and feel like being invited into a private home. (Upper East Side)
SHOP
Shops for Kids
Tiny Doll’s House – Tucked away on East 78th Street is a shop that will illuminate memories from your own childhood, with a Shop Around the Corner timeless quality. Everything for sale is in miniature form meant for outfitting dolls’ houses. This shop truly does feel out of another era, a reminder of the magic of childhood. (Upper East Side)
Shoppe Balloo – Founder Emma Portnoy has a beautifully curated selection of clothing and toys from smaller brands I love from around the world (+1 in the Family and Bonton, for example) in this concept shop on Bleecker Street. A gathering place for families and also a stone’s throw from the lovely Bleecker Playground. (West Village)
Spiral Books – Former teacher and fellow mother Mallory Neidich recently opened Spiral Books on Sullivan Street. She knows the books in her shop from cover to cover and gives excellent recommendations channeling the interests of your child and what they might enjoy most. There are also story times and author readings. (SoHo)
Yoya – Cristina Villegas opened Yoya in 2002 and now runs it with her daughter, Mila. A shop full of character and joie de vivre, where mothers and children can shop together. (West Village)
The Picnic Day – A small boutique with a big heart: whimsical pieces with New York themes abound. (West Village)
The Museum of Modern Art Shop and The Museum of Modern Art – The museum shops are impeccably curated with items that incorporate art making and creative themes that spark so much enthusiasm from my children. It is one of their favorite places to shop and be inspired, especially after seeing an exhibition.
Shops for Mothers
Old Stone Trade – Inspired by a love of craftsmanship, former magazine editor Melissa Ventosa Martin founded this by-appointment shop on one floor of a brownstone where handmade goods are linked to their origin stories. Truly a unique setting and experience. (Upper East Side)
Blue Tree – I love founder Phoebe Cates’ style—there is something for everyone in this gift shop, a true New York gem: jewelry, apparel, accessories, and gifting for children and home. (Upper East Side)
Chi Shop Village – Chica the owner curates everything in this jewel box of a shop on a picturesque street below Union Square and above Washington Square. I love the exquisite Fe knits made by Chica’s sister with yarn from her native Argentina, and the jewelry is swoonworthy. (Union Square)
Bomi – The most exquisite and curated edit for jewelry, home and apparel. One room of wonder. Located one floor up from street level, you will feel like you have happened upon a true New York discovery. (SoHo)
John Derian – A world unto itself on East 2nd Street, you will find three storefronts dedicated to the eclectic, playful vision of the one and only John Derian. (East Village)
Jenni Kayne – Founded by Jenni Kayne more than 20 years ago, this lifestyle brand translates beautifully to motherhood. Stop in for one of their timeless cashmere fisherman sweaters and pick up the kids size version as well for your little one. (SoHo)
STAY
The Marlton – Beautifully located just off Lower Fifth Avenue and two blocks above Washington Square Park (two playgrounds at the top of the park are a three-minute walk away! A+). The hotel is peaceful with an old-world charm, very Paris-meets-New York in the design details. There is a cozy lobby with a fire roaring in the cooler months, and a beautiful new restaurant called Chez Nous. A timeless place. (Greenwich Village)
The Whitby – A hotel designed by Kit Kemp, awash in color, warmth, and conveniently located in upper Midtown. A great position for exploring the city, just south of Central Park. (Midtown)
Maritime Hotel – I love the nautical theme of the hotel—it’s a whimsical place (rooms are equipped with porthole windows!) with very kind staff. Great proximity to Chelsea Market, The High Line Park, and the Whitney Museum of American Art. (Chelsea)
Virgin Hotel – I discovered this hotel when it opened because a friend of mine flies for Virgin Atlantic and she came for the opening—I love the bright rooms, full of light and color, the rooftop pool, and gracious restaurants. A great location in Nomad to explore all of New York and located on a pedestrian-only street, which has great restaurants and shops adjacent. (NoMad)
OTHER INTEL
Head to Casa Magazines and pick up a copy of New York Magazine when you arrive, which will have all the local goings-on for the week.
NYC Parks is also a great resource for children’s activities in NYC.
Uber and other ride share companies offer cars that can be ordered with car seats that can accommodate 5-25 lbs.
Time Out New York’s Kid’s Guide has great recommendations.
Rizzoli Books also has an area of their shop to the right as you enter, which is all New York Guides, excellent curation, and books on New York that will enchant children and parents alike.
Some books about New York that are geared towards exploring with kids that I like:
111 Places For Kids In New York That You Must Not Miss
Walking New York: Manhattan History On Foot
Renting bikes is a great way to explore Central Park with children. Bike Rent NYC has a location at Grand Army Plaza (on Fifth Avenue and 60th Street) near the entrance of the southern side of the park. They also offer tandem bicycles and child seats.
If you are biking around, you can pull over and pick up provisions at Perfect Picnic on Central Park West and West 100th Street—they have items ready to take away and enjoy as you continue on your journey through the park.
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