Dispatches from Lago Maggiore

We’re sharing two accounts that give a pretty vivid picture of this lake—straddling two regions of Italy and Switzerland, Lago Maggiore is larger than Lake Como, but more under the radar. First, writer Jacqueline Scher recounts an extended family getaway on the Piedmontese side of the lake and boat trips around the enchanting Borromean Islands. Then Valentina Vedani, who splits her time between Milan and the more subdued but equally sophisticated Lombard side of the lake, shares her list for the elaborate old-school hotels to book, the seafood dishes to order, and castles, pirate outposts and stately gardens worth visiting. —YOLO

By Jacqueline Scher

Last August, we took a few days between our travels to Santa Margarita and Lake Como to meet up with extended family who are Baroque musicians in Basel, Switzerland. We were in search of a hotel with a sense of place, but finding somewhere off the beaten path in the Lakes Region of Italy in summer was more difficult than we expected. In the end, we settled on Lake Maggiore, a somewhat less-heralded of the Lombardy-Piedmontese lakes, which include Como and Garda. It’s close to the Swiss border—also an hour from Milan, and ~2 hours from the Ligurian coast—and less prohibitively expensive than its peers.

We were coming from Portofino after spending a few nights at Grand Hotel Miramare—the best hotel in the area that isn’t the Belmond Splendido, and is a fraction of the price, with a beach club on the property. The drive from Santa Margarita to Verbania on the west (Piedmontese) side of Lake Maggiore was easy, and we’re always happy for an excuse to stop at an Autogrill. Our Swiss-based sister and brother-in-law took the train into Stresa, and it was a no-brainer to pick them up on the way to the hotel. 

We checked into Grand Hotel Majestic on the tip of Verbania. This is an old-school hotel. Upon arriving, we were struck by the burnt-orange awnings that retracted during aperitivo hour, and expertly wrought iron terrace furniture that had a total Il Pellicano feel. The grounds themselves are special, since—as compared to Como—the hotel sits directly on the lake with a small beach where you can wade into the water (we brought water shoes, which were well-used). The rooms are surprisingly affordable, even at the top categories around €500 in peak season, and offer generous double balconies. I loved the ship-like round windows in the bathroom that had postcard views onto the surrounding mountains and water. The lobby has a Wes Anderson-feel, with whimsical details like the heavily tasseled room keys, a chintz fabric on the headboard with matching drapes, and jewel-toned furniture. 

Our favorite part at the hotel each day was sunset aperitivo on the terrace—the bar staff were charming and quick to refill the savory bits (our favorite were the Japanese rice crackers). The Negronis and all other drinks were excellent, a true American bar. The other hotel that had caught our eye was Grand Hotel des Iles Borromees, considered the grand dame in Stresa. It was the honeymoon destination of Winston Churchill and featured in A Farewell to Arms. The Swiss side has Ascona, the more well-known vacation town, but it doesn’t seem to have the same stuck-in-time feel for lakeside hotel options. 

On our first night, we had dinner in the town of Verbania, a pleasant 10-minute walk from the hotel. My favorite part of this area was the designated walking and cycling paths flanked by stone walls on each side—nice to not have to think about any cars winding around the corners as you stroll. The next day, we took a private boat onto the lake organized by the Majestic team. It wasn’t the most luxe experience in terms of service and style, but the ease of being able to hop around the Borromean Islands as we liked was worth it. 

There are three islands that sit in between Stresa and Verbania; these were packed with tourists, but none seemed American. Isola Bella and Isola Pescatore are the two to prioritize; you get your fill of over-the-top Baroque design and a great leisurely lunch setting. We started at Isola Bella visiting Palazzo Borromeo, a villa and gardens that housed the Borromeo family, going back to the mid-1600s. The Palazzo is meant to resemble a ship, with the top level of the gardens serving as the captain’s deck. It’s worth visiting for the palace’s extensive art collections, roaming albino peacocks, and an expansive grotto fully scaled in a black shell design. 

We skipped the rest of the island’s restaurants and shops, which felt too kitschy, and were captained to Isola dei Pescatori—even though it’s separated by what is essentially a sandbank. It’s the most quaint of the three islands, a small fisherman’s village, and is home to one of our favorite restaurants of the trip—Il Verbano. The current chef reimagined the restaurant in 2022 with menus that highlight the lake, surrounding land, and vegetarian or vegan diets. We were surprised by how cosmopolitan the restaurant felt, with Ginori plates and white tablecloths, a welcome juxtaposition to the casual island and surrounding towns.

The next day, we drove up the west side of the lake to explore nearby towns—there’s much more we didn’t get to, and while the shopping isn’t exceptional, the Herno factory is located a town over from Verbania and I’ve heard the outlet store is great. This area is really a celebration of the lake itself, with public access to strips of the coast, rolling lawns and ladders into the water. 

On our last night, we had one of my favorite dinners of the trip and maybe in Italy, at La Rampolina – a farm-to-table restaurant up in the hills of Stresa, overlooking the lake and their gardens. It’s an incredibly lively spot, packed from the moment it opens at 7pm when the car park gets so full that people leave their cars on the entrance path, as if at someone’s house. The vibe is funky with random decor (London telephone booth, dog sculptures etc.) that would have seemed odd if the food wasn’t so good. We didn’t hear a word of English around us, and it felt like the Italian escape we had been searching for.

There is so much more of Lake Maggiore to explore, especially on the eastern coast and the Swiss part up north, but I know I’ll be back, as this quick trip was more than enough to lead me to fall in love with a lesser-known Italian getaway, and the perfect place to return and rent a house with a multi-generational crew. 

Jacqueline Scher is a writer and consultant. Originally from Northern California, she is a decided New Yorker, with a passion for compulsively researching travel to corral her far-flung family. You can read more of her work on her Substack, Jacqueline.

The Lago Maggiore List 

By Valentina Vedani

They say that Lago Maggiore is melancholic, which may be a little bit true. But in my experience, it’s very full of life: on sunny spring days, Italy’s second largest lake—bigger than Lake Como, but also less touristic—bursts into color; in summer it’s green and placid; and in fall, the foliage paints the surrounding mountains red and yellow. On windy days at any time of year, when the mergozzo whips up suddenly, it’s better to avoid boating if you are not a very good sailor!  

About 82 square miles in size, the lake’s clear waters are largely in Italy—touching Piedmont on the western shore and Lombardy on the east, as well as the Swiss canton of Ticino in the north. Although easily crossed (~20 minutes at the most common crossings), the two sides of the lake are substantially different. The Piedmontese coast, informally called the sponda grassa (“fat shore”) and comprising the towns of Arona, Stresa and Verbania, earned its name for the preponderance of historic homes, luxury villas and prestigious hotels, which over the years have attracted a level of elite tourism, particularly from Germany. Meanwhile, the Lombard coast, which extends from Sesto Calende to Zenna and is anchored in the town of Ranco, is nicknamed sponda magra, or “lean shore,” because it’s traditionally been inhabited by fishermen, and remains touristically less developed. More closed off and discreet, it’s where the Milanese traditionally vacation—with less grand but still beautiful hidden villas, and plenty of natural and historical landmarks, such as the Hermitage of Santa Caterina del Sasso and the Rocca Borromea of Angera. This side has always seemed more sophisticated to me, but I’m biased! I’m half Milanese and half “Varesotta,” living part of the week in Milan and part in the province of Varese, where I work with my husband and his brother on their century-old family business, Porrini, a concept store. (It was founded by his grandmother and sold household linens and fabrics, and since then has moved into prêt-a-porter, homewares and food.)

In the middle of the lake are the wonderful Borromean Islands—three islands and two islets known for their gardens and palaces. In the 14th century, the Borromeo family, the feudal lords of the era, acquired these scattered lands and, in fact, the family still owns Isola Bella and Isola Madre. You can visit them by tourist boat, or via taxi boat or, even better, via a handsome Riva Tritone, which you can rent at stresacruise.com (info@stresacruise.com). The whole area has a discreet sense of luxury—less flashy and less Hollywood-like than Lake Como, but with a sophisticated simplicity.

Isola dei Pescatori is the only island permanently inhabited by a small community, whose simple yet authentic restaurants, like Ristorante Italia, serve fish from the lake. Isola Madre is home to a large population of exotic birds, such as white peacocks, golden pheasants and parrots, which roam free in the splendid garden. Isola ’s garden has been skillfully designed over the centuries, with multicolored blooms throughout the year (have lunch or sleep in one of the two suites at Il Delfino). 

Stay

On the Piedmontese side, stay in one of Stresa’s splendid Baroque hotels: the Grand’ Hotel des Iles Borromees or the Regina Palace. I liked the latter when I slept there—my room, with a canopy bed, marble bathroom, red drapes and view of the lake, were transportive to another era. The Grand Hotel des lles Borromées has similar furnishings, though is a bit more baroque, with a spa, swimming pool and international clientele. 

In Lombardy, I’d suggest staying at the family-run Il Sole di Ranco, in the town of Ranco. It’s smaller and more modern than the Stresa hotels, though also quite refined—with a park and small swimming pool. 

Deciding where to stay is simply a matter of personal taste and proximity to whatever you want to see first. Being a local and loving the privacy of this part of the lake, I obviously prefer Il Sole di Ranco, and it’s the perfect base for visiting the Lombard shore (the Rocca Borromea in Angera is 10 minutes by car, the Chiosco di Cerro for lunch or dinner is 20 minutes, and the Hermitage of Santa Caterina del Sasso 20 minutes). But why not try both? Two nights in Stresa, then head up the lake by car to Intra, and take the ferry in Lombardy to Laveno in just 20 minutes (you can take the car on board), and drive for 20 minutes (19 km) to Ranco. 

Visit

On the Piedmontese side, Stresa is a great base for visiting the towns along the shore as well as the Borromean Islands. It’s a quiet area of parks and alleyways, a bit of a time warp to explore. Walking along the lakeside, past period villas, manicured gardens and historic hotels (such as the famous Grand Hotel des lles Borromées, which is worth a drop-in for a coffee), immerses you in a Belle Epoque atmosphere. 

You can also visit Villa Taranto in Verbania, which has a beautiful botanical garden (unfortunately the interiors are closed to the public). Or head to The Cannero Castles, which are circumnavigable ruins of a pirate outpost that sit on three rocky islets. There were pirates on the lake in 1400, and the mysteriously beautiful site recalls distant eras of battles and ancient lords. 

On the Lombardy side, I highly recommend the hermitage of Santa Caterina del Sasso, which dates to the 12th century and has breathtaking views. Also visit Varese for the Estensi Gardens next to the Palazzo Estense (the seat of the Municipality), elegant 18th-century Italian gardens with geometric flower beds, trimmed hedges, fountains, and a panoramic view of the city. In the afternoon, drive up to Sacro Monte—have a bite at the café at Hotel Borducan and a walk with a breathtaking view of the mountains.

About the islands: on Isola Pescatori, it’s nice to walk around and enjoy the microscopic village (food recommendations below). On Isola Bella, Palazzo Borromeo is surrounded by wonderful gardens, and inside you’ll find halls, frescoes, period furnishings. Humilitas, the heraldic motto of the Borromeo family, means culture, humanism, education, and humility. You’ll certainly find all of these here in the flower gardens by Lake Maggiore. The island’s caves are striking for their creativity and originality. Prepare to enter a marine world with walls, vaults and floors decorated with pebbles and shells—very cooling in summer. I know less about Isola Madre, and I don’t have any advice. It is also, in my opinion, the least beautiful. 

Eat

On both banks of Lago Maggiore, you’ll find the traditional dish of risotto with persico, or fried lake fish. In Piedmont, be sure to drink a glass of Sfursat, my favorite red grape variety, or a Menabrea beer. In Lombardy, look for brutti e buoni, hazelnut meringue sweets, and drink a grappa d’Angera after dinner. A few recommendations: 

On the Piedmont side: In Lesa (15 minutes by car from Stresa), Il Battipalo was converted from an old boat ticket office; the restaurant is intimate and romantic, overlooking the lake. Last Hall in Baveno, about 4 minutes by car from Stresa, is inside the Dino Hotel, an ancient building that was previously a horse stable. If you are already staying there, even better: eat in a nest. You will understand when you see the furniture—I won’t say more! And don’t miss a cheese tasting at Eros, La Casera, in Verbania, and an aperitif, if the weather is good, at Ittico fish bar in Verbania. 

On the Lombardy side: In Ranco, have lunch at the hotel’s Il Sole restaurant and take a dip in the pool, then have an aperitif and/or a simple dinner at Al Chiosco di Cerro.

On the islands: Isola Pescatori, being the only inhabited one, has small bars and restaurants for lunch or dinner on the lakeside. I recommend Ristorante Italia (simple and typical), Ristorante Belvedere (also a hotel), or Il Verbano (more elegant and refined). It is important to book ahead! If you want to have lunch on Isola Bella (where everything is closed in the evening), I recommend eating at the cafe in Palazzo Borromeo. 

Getting there

From Milan: The closest point is the town of Stresa, on the western Piedmontese shore of Lake Maggiore, but there are ferries that also stop there from Arona, Angera and Laveno. From Stresa, you can take the motor boats that leave from the Molo di Carciano and go around the three islands at set times (they stop first at Isola Madre, then Isola dei Pescatori, and finally Isola Bella). You can buy a ticket that is valid for a whole day and allows you to get on and off as many times as you want within the 9:30-18:00 timetable.

By car: This is the most convenient, as in some ports you can bring your vehicle on the boat. From Milan, take the Autostrada dei Laghi towards Gravellona Toce, and then exit at Carpugnino. Without traffic, it takes about 1h and 15.

By train: there is the Milan-Sempione line that stops right in Stresa and the train times coincide with the boats.

Itineraries

One-day from Milan

To visit all the Borromean Islands in a day, I advise arriving early in the morning and first visiting Isola Madre (including the gardens) and Isole dei Pescatori. Have lunch on the latter, and then reach Isola Bella and its incredible Italian garden by early afternoon.

A Three-Day itinerary

Stay one night in Stresa (on the Piedmont side), the next day visit the Borromean Islands, and in the evening move to the Lombardy side in Ranco. The next day, rent a car and visit the Rocca d’Angera and the Hermitage of Santa Caterina del Sasso in Leggiuno.  

Valentina Vedani has lived between Milan and Lake Maggiore for years. She works as a buyer for her husband’s family concept store, Porrini, near Lake Maggiore. 
@porrinimodaecasa @porrinicasa @valevalentinavi