Kyoto Black Book

If Tokyo is the pulse of Japan, Kyoto is undoubtedly its heart. As the imperial capital for over a thousand years, Kyoto is loaded with history and sacred beauty (so much so that it was spared during World War II as “a shrine of Japanese art and culture”). A lot of what foreigners typically associate with Japan really comes from Kyoto: matcha, kimonos, ikebana, ceramics. And the city is home to a stunning amount of historic sites – 1,600 Buddhist temples and 400 Shinto shrines, which sit beautifully among their natural surroundings of bamboo forests and mossy Zen gardens. 

But for all its visible layers of history, Kyoto isn’t a city preserved in amber. Its old machiyas house some of its coolest restaurants and shops, young artisans carry on generations-old family crafts, and contemporary galleries sit alongside mossy gardens and tea houses. To help navigate this singular city with an almost overwhelming amount to see (and sometimes overwhelming crowds), we tapped 16 local friends and frequent visitors for their go-tos: from tiny noodle shops, kaiseki counters and classical wagashi (sweets), to the best shops for ceramics, paper, Japanese fashion, and vintage markets.

OUR CONTRIBUTORS

Adèle Fremolle has spent the past two decades working at the intersection of art, culture, and international exchange. From 2022 to 2026, she served as Director of Villa Kujoyama in Kyoto, one of France’s leading artist residency programs, designed to invite dialogue between the two cultures. Currently she is based in New York and serves as Director of Artistic Exchange at Villa Albertine, the French Institute for Culture and Education in the U.S.

Ben Richards is a travel and architectural photographer based in Tokyo. Following a move to Japan in 2019, he has traveled extensively across the country with his camera in search of lesser-traveled destinations. His new guidebook, Views from Japan, encourages you to explore Japan like a local, and includes 250 unique destinations and experiences across 20 prefectures.

Geoffrey P. Moussas is a New York-born, MIT-trained, Kyoto-based architect who has lived in Japan since 1994. Apart from designing boutique hotels and private homes, he has restored or redesigned some 40 traditional Japanese structures such as machiya townhouses, restaurants, tearooms, kura (storehouses), and temples, including a 400-year Buddhist temple. His work has been featured in the FT, CNN and NHK among others, and exhibited in Kiyomizu Temple and Nijo Castle.

Hana Tsukamoto and Irene Chang, founders of the design-forward boutique hospitality brand Maana Homes, have always been curious about how people live, create, find inspiration, and cultivate a sense of stillness. Inspired by the various cultures and wisdom they encountered while growing up, they created Maana Homes as a space to explore a more thoughtful way of living and inspire others.

Kana Shimizu is the founder of Stardust, a beloved Kyoto cafe, boutique, and gallery in an 80-year-old machiya.  

Kenichi Kaneko is the director of AMAHARE, a leading gallery for authentic and contemporary Japanese crafts and arts with locations in Tokyo and Kyoto. KYO AMAHARE also features a tea salon offering true relaxation, rain or shine.

Kuroda Masakazu is the owner and director of Stactile, one of Kyoto’s most cutting-edge independent fashion shops, which opened earlier this year in a 100-year-old braided cord factory. Before that, he was involved in fashion work in Kyoto for more than 25 years. 

Kyle Connaughton is the chef-owner of three-Michelin-starred restaurant SingleThread in Healdsburg, California. In March, he and his team unveiled their first international outpost, SoNoMa by SingleThread alongside the opening of Capella Kyoto, and followed almost immediately with the opening of SingleThread Entremets—a jewel-box patisserie also located inside the hotel. The Kyoto restaurant and patisserie reflect Kyle and his wife Katina’s deep appreciation for Japanese ingredients, philosophies, and the many years they spent living and working in Japan.

Naomi Kawanishi Reis was born in Shiga, Japan, and grew up in Kyoto from age 9 to the end of high school. She is a visual artist and Japanese->English translator, now living and working in Brooklyn, NY. 

Nicolas Black is the General Manager of Six Senses Kyoto. Known affectionately as “Nico-san,” with over 7 years in Kyoto, Nicolas is a global nomad dedicated to crafting out-of-the-ordinary experiences and successful international brand debuts including the first Six Senses hotel in Kyoto. His passion for emotional hospitality is deeply enriched by a personal commitment to integrating holistic wellness and circular sustainability into the guest journey.

Nihan Arici is a London-based trend forecaster and creative researcher with more than a decade of experience in fashion. Her work is driven by curiosity about how culture, behavior, design and everyday life influence the way we dress and live. Outside of forecasting, she curates @shibuimono, a personal perspective on architecture, craft, objects and travel, bringing together the places, people and details that shape her visual world. 

Sara Aiko is a Kyoto-based creative director and founder of Curated Kyoto, a studio specialising in hospitality, culture and design. A Condé Nast Traveler Top Travel Specialist, she works with global brands, travellers and luxury hotels to create meaningful experiences rooted in Kyoto. 

Shouya Grigg is a British-born photographer and art collector who has been living in Japan since the 1990s. He is the creative director behind the luxury contemporary ryokans Zaborin and Shiguchi in Niseko, Hokkaido. He spends his time working on creative projects between Hokkaido and Kyoto. 

Sophia Hatchitt is founder of Komasa Collection, a boutique representation company with partners in Japan and Thailand. She is also author of the Asia-focused Substack East of Here.

Tina Koyama is the CEO and founder of POJ Studio, a sustainable ecosystem for homeware made by artisans from around Japan. She is a designer by trade with roots in Japan. After a fast-paced decade in digital product design across Tokyo and Silicon Valley, she started POJ in order to bring traditional Japanese goods and experiences to those who appreciate them. 

Toru Tsuji is the second-generation head of Kanaamitsuji, continuing a Kyoto metal netting (kanaami) craft over 1,000 years old. Before taking over the family business at 21, he took an unconventional path that included running an apparel business and traveling to Jamaica. He creates new products for more global, modern living while keeping the traditional craft alive. Working hands-on as a craftsman and leading the company as its president, he is breathing new life into a centuries-old trade.

STAYS

Favorite overall hotel

Hotel the Mitsui – Located right across from Nijo Castle, this hotel has a wonderful sense of place. The property’s thermal hot spring and peaceful Japanese garden create a calm atmosphere where you can slow down and enjoy the quiet beauty of Kyoto. It’s luxurious yet still feels true to Kyoto. -Toru Tsuji

Capella Kyoto, located in the very accessible but quiet Miyagawa-cho neighborhood. It’s like going back in time in that neighborhood and having a sanctuary away from the hustle and bustle of Kyoto. It is also the home of our second restaurant, SoNoMa by SingleThread, and our newest patisserie, Entremets, which offers a hyper-seasonal collection of sophisticated cakes and confections presented within a beautiful living display case of seasonal flowers, plants, and mosses. It provides every luxury while being incredibly and authentically connected to the neighborhood, the geisha culture, and the city of Kyoto overall. -Kyle Connaughton. The newly opened Capella. The entire property is so tranquil, you can relax just by being inside. I’m also completely obsessed with all of the Capella Hotel’s floral arrangements. There’s nothing like them!! -Sophia Hatchitt