In short… A cozy, Viking-flavored eco-retreat with geothermally-heated hot tubs and excellent seasonal food—a perfect base for exploring Iceland’s Golden Circle.
The surroundings… Torfhús Retreat sits in south Iceland, near Selfoss, in the Golden Circle—the classic route that loops from Reykjavik through a wild geological showcase that includes Þingvellir National Park, where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates meet; the Geysir geothermal area; and Gullfoss waterfall, star of many an IG post. Torfús itself is ringed by mossy rolling fields, volcanic plains, and distant snow-capped mountains, so pulling up to the Hobbit-like guesthouses scattered across the windswept landscape feels a bit like arriving on a movie set.
The backstory… Torfhús was opened in 2025 by Icelander Siggi Jensson and Swiss-Liechtensteinian Alex Hoop, who first came to Iceland more than 20 years ago, drawn by her love of Icelandic horses. They designed the property themselves, inspired by traditional Icelandic farmhouses, sourcing reclaimed wood from Austria and local stone and turf. The 50-acre property runs entirely on geothermal and hydroelectric energy and is dotted with geothermally heated plunge pools.
The vibe… A repurposed Icelandic fishing boat turned sofa, statues of Norse gods, and a huge hand-hewn iron map of Iceland set the Viking-core tone in the lobby of the Langhús (long house), built around massive basalt stone plinths. The dining room, with its sheepskin throws and flickering candles, makes a cozy shelter from the exposed plains outside, which are framed by picture windows through which a grazing horse or distant glacier sometimes appears. It’s quiet, meditative and elemental: the walk back to your room can mean leaning into the wind at a tilt—though electric carts are on hand to shepherd you as needed.
The rooms… There are 15 rooms with shared basalt hot tubs and 10 2-BR suites with a kitchen and private hot tubs. The décor radiates warmth in wood, leather, sheepskin and tweed (and literally, with geothermally heated floors), if a bit theme-y, with its oversize landscape photos and runic fonts. Still, the rooms are appealing and light-filled, and the kitchen equipped with a kettle for herbal tea, a Nespresso, and tableware if needed. Each room has an old-fashioned landline phone the staff use to call you at all hours if the Northern Lights appear, which is most likely from September to March.
There are also two 4,000-square-foot houses that sleep 8—with a cold plunge and Icelandic sauna alongside the hot tub—perfect for families or groups.
The food & drink… Breakfast and dinner are served in the Langhús. A repurposed horse-drawn cart bears breakfast—skyr (yogurt) and healthy toppings, eggs, and pancakes, as well as a pitcher of cod liver oil, Iceland’s health tonic of choice.
Dinner follows an informal set menu, which draws on whatever is grown and foraged seasonally within a 10-mile radius (Iceland is known for its extensive geothermically heated greenhouses). The style is new-Nordic: we had delicious yuzu-marinated local tuna to start, Icelandic lamb with bok choy (Icelanders will tell you their lamb is the best in the world, since the sheep are sent inland to graze on rich volcanic grass each summer), and a fantastic gluten-free lentil-and-rice bread. The dishes were paired with an extensive list of wines from France, Italy and even Liechtenstein.
We also had lunch at Efstidalur beef and dairy farm, opened in the 1750s and now run by the 8th generation. At tables that overlook the dairy cows ruminating their hay, a limited but delicious menu is served of steak (try the rib-eye with Bernaise, which for some reason has seized the Icelandic palate), skyr, focaccia with Icelandic feta, and whey—the byproduct of yogurt and cheese production that’s rich in protein, magnesium and calcium (tried some and it wasn’t bad, like cheese water). Downstairs is a charming ice cream shop. Vegetarians and lactose-intolarants would obviously want to skip this stop.
The wellness… Torfhús’ basalt hot tubs are great for extended soaks (not too hot), though the hotel itself doesn’t have a spa. For a more immersive experience, head to Laugarás Lagoon, which recently opened 20 minutes away in a region where many Icelanders keep their summer cabins. Much smaller than the famous Blue Lagoon, it nonetheless is quite charming, filled with locals soaking and drinking away a full day. Built by Icelandic architects, the lagoon spans two levels connected by a waterfall, with secluded grottos, dry saunas and steam baths, a cold plunge (fed by the river across the road), an infinity pool, a forest pool, and two swim-up bars. A day pass is a great idea for after a morning spent seeing the regional sites.
Laugarás Lagoon’s on-site Ylja restaurant serves a traditional soup board all day, but stay for dinner if you can—it was stellar. The kitchen is led by chef Gísli Matt, an Icelandic culinary star known for his restaurants in Reykjavik and on Heimaey Island. The menu draws from local fisheries, farms, geothermal greenhouses, and foraging on property. We started with a “forest broth” of lion’s mane mushrooms, pine and birch; then a sunny tomato carpaccio; Arctic char radishes, cucumber in an aguachile-like whey broth; cod en papillotte with rutabaga; mashed potatoes with sunchokes topped with smoked butter; grilled lamb with roasted pepper puree and feykir cheese; and a potato rosti with hazelnuts and thyme. All paired with natural wines—but also all somehow fresh enough that you feel light on your feet after the meal.
Be sure to … If you’re in the area, you’ll of course want to visit the Golden Circle’s natural spectacles. These can be self-guided, but it was helpful to have Tony from Icelandia share the history behind them and to navigate the crowds at these popular sites. The towering black wall known as “the people’s rift” in Þingvellir National Park is where Iceland’s first parliament and law code were created in 930 AD, and it has featured as a filming location for Game of Thrones to Interstellar. It’s also here that brave visitors in full-body wetsuits can snorkel in glacier water that has been filtered through miles of volcanic soil—clean enough to drink straight from the fissure (try it!). At Geysir, you walk around the bubbling hot pots and wait for the geyser to spew (not as high as Old Faithful, but still impressive), and Gulfloss is a must—with luck, you’ll catch a rainbow in the mist over the falls.
You’ll also see Icelandic horses dotting the landscape. This hardy breed has been isolated for 1,000 years and are known for their tough hooves suited to the stony terrain and their fourth gait, called the tölt, a smooth, fast walk. We went for a trail ride with Riding Tours South Iceland and it was a lovely and authentic way to get into the countryside.
And finally, this is niche but worth it: we visited Brynja Hamskeri, a taxidermist based in Selfloss and a friend of Torfhús’ owners. She meticulously restores Iceland’s famous birds—plovers, puffins, owls, crows—many of which locals find and send to her (she takes commissions). She is also a ceramicist, painting delicate flora and fauna on her tableware. Her studio is open by appointment (DM her here).
Parting words… Torfhús makes a great base for a couple of nights of sightseeing around the Golden Circle, whether on your way to a wider Ring Road itinerary or as a stopover trip from Reyjkjavik.
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