Hotel Drei Berge, Mürren

Best for… Hotel Drei Berge is for a hiking or ski trip, or a quick weekend from Zurich (when you live in Switzerland, as we do).

A little backstory… When I heard that Ramdane Touhami and his wife, Victoire de Taillac-Touhami—the founders of Officine Universelle Buly 1803—were opening their first hotel in Mürren in the Bernese Oberland, I immediately booked a superior room without seeing any photos and before the hotel was even open. They’ve given the Hotel Drei Berge, which dates to 1907, a second life.

The look and feel… Ramdane calls himself an “anarchomountaineer,” which can be felt in the hotel’s new design. While the exterior (to be completed this winter) remains traditional and painted in a dark-green shade in the character of a fairytale mountain hut, inside is more modern clubhouse, with a wild mix of colors and speakers blaring out contemporary music. In this eclecticism you can decipher the strong hand of the detail-obsessed owner everywhere. Expect Drei Berge-branded custom bed linens, towels, chinaware, etc. The public spaces, like the lounge and restaurant, have a homey feeling, with traditional Swiss mountain features carried over from the hotel’s previous era. 

The rooms… Not all rooms have yet undergone a transformation. The new rooms have a chalet-like feeling with cozy beds, traditional woodwork, and playful elements like mountaineering badges. The most spectacular part, of course, is the breathtaking view of the three mountains that give the hotel its name: the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau (the Ogre, the Monk, the Young Girl).

The wellness… is right at your footsteps outdoors, be it hiking, paragliding, mountain biking, or skiing. The hotel staff is very helpful in getting you organized. While we lay around and read books against that beautiful scenery, our friend went on an 8-hour hike and absolutely loved it. As a guest, you can use the nearby swimming pool, the sauna in the sports center (only a few minutes’ walk away), and a most unreal tennis court situated on a cliff that drops down 1,600 meters, so if your balls go over, they are truly lost.

The food… A rather atypical mix of Swiss, Italian and Asian served in a traditional mountain hut dining room (more changes to come, we were told). The “pot of luck,” a roasted chicken with exceptionally seasonal vegetables, and the traditional chicken Cordon Bleu oozing cheese, were both outstanding. Don’t forget the exquisite cocktail list, which you can enjoy on the outdoor terrace, the restaurant, or the lounge area—we went heavy on the Negronis.

Extra tip goes to… Ramdane, who is such a colorful storyteller—if he is around, make sure to introduce yourself.

Be sure to… To visit the car-free town of Mürren. You have to take a cable-car first, followed by a mountain train which is all part of the experience—once you arrive, you are on the plateau with the aforementioned view of the three mountains. It’s fascinating to see how the reflection of the sun and shade throughout the day changes the view. Mürren is a traditional mountain village, so expect picture-perfect wooden huts and loads of geraniums (when you visit in summer). It’s petite and easy to walk; and don’t leave without your souvenir, maybe that Swiss-Army knife you always wanted?

Parting words… We will be back for this out-of-time experience and are curious to see how the overall hotel continues to transform, thanks to Ramdane and Victoire’s boundless energy.

Date of stay… September, 2023