Hoshinoya, Kyoto

In short… Hoshinoyo Kyoto is a luxury ryokan on the banks of the River Oi, accessible by private boat.

The backstory… Architect Rie Azuma restored wooden buildings that date back over a century for Hoshinoya, and the result is a deeply meditative feeling sanctuary.

The vibe… Hushed elegance and privacy. I arrived from Kyoto city into Arashiyama (a western suburb) by taxi, as many might, and found my way to an unobtrusive little building that was underwhelmingly signposted, sitting at the tail end of the Togetsu-kyo bridge, which throngs of people walk over. Things change when you exit the lift and enter the building, which is the reception and lounge for the Hoshinoya. It’s where one waits for a boat ride to the hotel, and the graceful calm of the lounge starts making it obvious that you’re about to be taken somewhere out of the ordinary. Once in the boat, it’s a mere 15-minute ride to the hotel dock, and yet a world away. The first sight of the hotel on the left bank has the air of something that has simply always existed. I studied Japanese literature years ago, and it felt like it rose straight out of Heian era literature. Scenes from the Genji monogatari (Tales of Genji, by Murasaki Shikibu) and diary entries from the Pillowbook of Sēi Shonagon flitted through my mind (in which Murasaki Shikibu’s contemporary, a court lady nicknamed Sēi Shonagon, pens amusing lists that feel like curious snapshots of that time, like “depressing things” or “elegant things.” If you’re wondering, she considered a white coat with a violet waistcoat and duck eggs quite elegant). Fear not, the throwback feel doesn’t mean that it lacks more modern design touches. This is Rie Azuma, after all. For instance, Bertoia wire chairs dot the property, which throw beautiful shadows that complement the light filtering through the traditional restored wood slatted screens and other elements perfectly.

The rooms… Sparse, low furniture that the staff cleverly moves around to create an in-room dining set-up when you want it, tatami mats, shoji screens and mounds of decadent duvets on low Japanese-style beds that will make you want to sleep in longer. The walls are covered with subtle wood-block printed paper, which comes from a paper company that has been around for more than a century in Kyoto (“Kyo Karakami,” which translates to Kyoto Chinese Paper). The suites are oriented towards the celadon-hued waters of the river Oi that gushes below, and the massive windows are designed to accentuate the views. It’s easy to spend a good amount of time simply gazing out at the ducks in the river, and watching the hotel’s boat quietly pull in from time to time. There are Japanese-style square Hinoki wood bathtubs in the bathrooms, accompanied by little bags of kumquats to dunk into the water along with bath salts.

The wellness… The hotel runs full-day spa programs that include acupuncture, morning stretches, tea ceremonies, and massages. Unplugging completely by booking a two-day program sometime is on my list of things to do. There are outdoor pavilions and a calming indoor space to use for meditation or yoga. Ikebana classes and incense ceremonies can also be arranged.

The food & drink… Elaborate kaiseki spreads for dinner that look almost too pretty to eat in their dainty servingware, and simple rice bowls for lunch. There’s a lovely spread of self-serve tea available in the lounge all day.

Be sure to… Ask the staff for local recommendations. Attention to detail and staff desire to help is abundant here. I was disappointed that I couldn’t visit the Kokodera moss temple in Kyoto (which needs a reservation by post!), but instead, I visited the Gio-ji temple in Arashiyama on the staff’s recommendations, which satisfied my love for gloriously mossy gardens. Also, keep an eye out for the sweet little narrow gauge Sagano Scenic Railway, which passes through the hills on the other side of the river.

Parting words… It’s utterly charming and feels like a true retreat, even though it is easily accessible. I would love to return in the autumn next time for a restful few days armed with some writing to do or a bag of books to read; I can imagine the foliage being luscious.