Villa Lario, Lake Como, Italy

In short… Set between the deep blue water and green, jasmine-scented cliffs of Lake Como, Villa Lario swaps grand-hotel theatrics for the quiet intimacy of an 18-suite private estate that’s a mix of contemporary and historic design and sweeping views of the lake.

The surroundings… Driving from Milan, we made our way along windy roads towards the small village of Pognana Lario, the sapphire waters of Lake Como peeking out every now and again between the Mediterranean cypresses. In just under an hour, we arrived on the eastern shore of the Lake at Villa Lario’s clifftop parking bay, where we took an elevator down to two acres of private gardens belonging to the estate. You’re instantly hit with the alluring smell of jasmine flowers lining the walls around the complex, nestled within two levels of tranquil cliffside with views of the Lake from almost anywhere you stand.

Entering the main building of Il Palazzo, across those classic terrazzo and marble floors, we were shown to the Master Tower Suite one floor up, where I immediately threw open the windows to take in the vista: architectural marvels dotted around the lakeshore and the villa’s bobbing Riva boats and dinghies anchored just below.

The backstory… The estate, originally owned by the Lombardi family, underwent an 8-year restoration before opening its doors as a hotel just over a decade ago. Il Palazzo—the 19th century Italian palazzo at the heart of Villa Lario—was originally used as a boathouse for the Lombardi family’s wooden fleet. Over time, three other villas were added: The Pavillion, the Garden Suite, and Villa Bianca, blending both history and modernity. The current owners have plans to add another villa to open next year, and to expand the spa.

The vibe… Unhurried and deliberate. Between morning dips in the perfectly temperate waters of the lake, strong espressos overlooking the Bellagio promontory, boat trips visiting the neighborhood lemon groves, Negronis on one of the pontoon’s vividly orange deck chairs, pleasantly chic company, and perhaps a final swim before bed, Villa Lario managed to capture that languid, Italian pace of life that exists almost exclusively by the water’s edge.

The rooms… The Master Tower Suite—one of 18 suites across all four buildings on property—is located on the 2nd floor of Il Palazzo, a corner living room ensconced by floor-to-ceiling windows on either side. The room itself has a clean, white, minimal aesthetic geared towards maximizing the incredible views of the living/dressing area. The ensuite bathroom, with bathtub and shower, contrasts nicely against this, with dark marble interiors offering a low-lit and calming atmosphere while you freshen up before aperitivo hour. I tended to throw both doors open throughout the day to encourage a refreshing breeze around the room and allowing the quiet sounds of the lapping lake to drift in through the windows as I fell asleep on the rather lavish king-size bed at night. 

The wellness… It seems silly to suggest anything other than swimming with the exceptionally inviting Lago di Como right in front of you, as well as The Villa’s 20m-long infinity pool. But there’s a fitness room available where you can also book yoga and Pilates classes, or even a private in-room massage.

For any golfers in your party, a round can easily be organized through the hotel at one of three local courses: the Monticello Golf Club, the Circle Golf Villa d’Este, or the Menaggio Golf Club.

The food… Most of my experience of Italian cuisine revolves around more substantive Tuscan options—think bistecca Fiorentina and rich game, which can be tricky in 30+ degree heat, so the fresh seafood and extremely delicate pasta options by chef Davide Maci we had on arrival were very welcome. I thoroughly enjoyed the tiramisu served for dessert and being actively encouraged to scoop out from the middle of the tray to ensure we got the best possible portion. Apparently this is the Italian way!

On our second day, we accompanied chef to the local market in Como, where he introduced us to the various meat, cheese, grocers and produce vendors that supply the kitchens at Villa Lario. The region’s goat cheese was a particular favorite.

That evening, sitting outside as the sun set and a threatening storm turned the sky red, we were treated to an off-menu tasting from chef Davide, which was absolutely phenomenal. Dish after dish of delicately balanced classic Italian flavors reinterpreted and presented through the lens of modern fine dining were placed in front of us—lightly fried calamari on a bed of cucumber, a delicately thin tomato tart topped with pickled red onion, mussels with the most deftly folded mezzaelune pasta I’ve ever seen—I couldn’t get enough.

Bear in mind this was just a one-off experience created for our group and not necessarily something that is offered regularly at the restaurant, but it went some way in showing the level of skill and finesse with which the Villa Lario kitchen is operating.

And speaking of operating at a high level, the bar area in Il Palazzo is superb. I believe one of the marks for a decent hotel bar is how well they’re able to produce a relatively quintessential cocktail. It’s strange how often this yardstick can be missed, but again, Villa Lario was up to and beyond scratch, making one of the best gin martinis I’ve had this summer.

Extra tip goes to… Paul, our Belgian sommelier, who, every lunchtime and evening would pair some excellent wines alongside our meals.

Be sure to… Take the water taxi into Como itself, hopping on at the dock just a short walk along the path directly below the hotel. Lasting a leisurely 20 minutes, settle down in the sunny stern of the small ferry and take in the architecture of the surrounding area before disembarking to wander around the storied streets, taking care to stroll past the beautiful Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta.

Parting words… Between the magnificent views of the Eastern leg of Lago di Como, the exquisite food, the spot-on cocktails and wine, the incredibly helpful staff across the board, the wonderful smell of jasmine everywhere (I immediately Googled to see if I could grow this in an Irish environment; sadly it was not to be), I felt spoiled rotten. And despite only staying for 2 days, I was truly able to slow down, cocooned in this bubble where everything moves at a languid half speed and the few choices in front of you vary from reading your book on the suspended deck, a dip in the lake or infinity pool and a cocktail or two in between.

Date of stay… May 27-29, 2026