In short… A historic hotel on the Kona side of Hawaii’s Big Island, with an iconic architectural heritage that shaped the hospitality sphere of the island.
The surroundings… Flying into KOA (Kona’s airport, servicing the west side of the island), it’s roughly a 30-minute drive up the coast to the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, on one of the island’s most secluded bays. I arrived in the evening in complete darkness, and awoke to a view of little else but palm trees blowing in the wind, beautiful plumeria, and the rolling ocean.
The backstory… Founded in 1965 by Laurance S. Rockefeller, at the time of its construction the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel was the most expensive hotel ever built, costing $15 million. After visiting the island for the first time, Rockefeller set his sights on Kaunaʻoa Bay, owned at the time by Parker Ranch and deemed unsuitable for cattle. He was infatuated with the beauty of the beach, which was inaccessible by road and without running water or power. Still determined, Rockefeller leased the land and began building the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel completely from scratch, with all resources having to be hauled in over newly created roads. The singular, open air-resort concept was revolutionary at the time, and was the first resort in the island’s region of Kohala.
The vibe…Built in a linear, midcentury modern style, the hotel’s open-air layout is such a nice feature—there’s no attack of air conditioning when you enter, and during the day, sunlight spills through the entire property. The common spaces are all very welcoming, as guests are encouraged to make themselves at home in the open-air lobby and seating area by the restaurant. Laurance Rockefeller’s colorful Hawaiian art collection presents a striking contrast to the building’s linearity, creating a feeling of warmth throughout. Although most guests spend their days by the pool or on the beach, the ground floor houses a kids’ recreation area with ping-pong, a pool table, and a small putting green, so there’s always something to do. The entire property feels friendly and unpretentious, and as you walk through the hallways barefoot in your swimsuit after a long day at the beach, it’s easy to relax into the island vibes.
The rooms… Celebrating its 60th anniversary later this year, the hotel recently underwent (and is still undergoing) a massive renovation of the 252 guest rooms, as well as a new pool, gym and common spaces. I stayed in the beachfront wing of the property in one of the newly renovated rooms. It was super comfortable, with large bathrooms featuring Toto toilets and a really lovely shower-bathroom combo. The rooms are fresh and modern, with wooden accents and nods to the OG midcentury style, including a thoughtful curation of paintings from Rockefeller’s original Hawaiian art collection, lending it personality without feeling overly decorated.
I love this vintage image I found of a room around the time of the hotel’s construction, which shows the original decor and vibe. While of course design tastes have changed since 1964, I was struck that the recent renovation nodded to so many of the same elements—simple art, wooden louvered blinds, all about the view. All of the rooms also have designated drinking water taps, which I thought was cool. When you check-in you’re given your own Mauna Kea water bottle, which you can fill up in your room (and of course take home if you like)!
For those traveling with bigger groups or with family, the property also has a portfolio of around 100 private rental residences which range in size, most with oceanfront views. Guests of the Mauna Kea Residences have access to all of the hotel’s amenities, a great alternative to finding a private rental somewhere else on the island.
The food & drink… The first night we arrived late, but were still welcomed at the property’s fine dining restaurant, Manta. Eating at around 9pm, we quickly established that it was an early-dinner crowd, as we pretty much closed the place down. I went full ahi, as one does when landing in Hawaii, starting with a delicious fresh ahi crudo and an incredible thick cut of seared ahi served with mashed Japanese sweet potato on the side (my favorite). The outdoor tables have an incredible panoramic view over the entire bay. After dinner, we walked down towards the rocky bluff overlooking the water, where the manta rays like to hang out, and to our delight spotted a large one flipping around in the water—the perfect cap to our first night in Hawaii.
Breakfast is also served at Manta, with a large buffet and à la carte options. Note that when the property is at full capacity, you might have to wait for breakfast… but most rooms have balconies, so you can always opt for room service. If you do get a table, the panoramic view is amazing, and gives you a great snapshot of the topography of the island. There are three other restaurants on property, which all offer more casual dining options: Copper Bar—we didn’t eat here, but they offer casual fare and live music; Hau Tree—Mauna Kea’s beachside haunt, perfect for lunch on your beach day where you can escape the sun but enjoy the view and leave the kids to play in the sand if traveling with family; Number 3—located on the edge of the property’s golf course and another great relaxed lunch option, especially if you’re golfing. Sit outside if you can: we ate here one day when Hau Tree was packed and it was a lovely escape from the beach in the high sun.
The wellness… Their spa is currently under renovation, but they have a great gym with all new high tech equipment, which overlooks the adult pool and the ocean. They also have other outdoor forms of physical activity such as tennis, pickleball, golf, and of course, swimming and other water sports (snorkeling, paddleboarding, etc.).
Is it kid-friendly? Very much so. My visit coincided with a school holiday—”ski week,” who knew??—and there were lots of kids. If you’re traveling with family, this place is pretty ideal, as there’s lots of space and the beach is totally enclosed so you can let your kids run around while you sit and enjoy the sun. There’s also a kids’ club—Keiki Club—on property. All of the staff are incredibly friendly and used to having kids around all the time, so it’s a very familial environment.
Be sure to… Sign up for the E Ala E experience with one of the property’s Aloha Ambassadors. The traditional Hawaiian ceremony is an intention-setting ritual performed at sunrise. At around 6am, I got dressed and headed down to the far end of Kaunaʻoa Bay to meet Healani, my guide for the morning experience—she performs the ritual every single day whether guests join or not. I was the only other person to show up, so being practically alone on the beach of Kaunaʻoa Bay at sunrise was pretty spectacular. Then Healani started chanting, instructing me to join in and turn to face the sun, then turn back to the sea. We chanted as we watched the sun rise behind the hotel and then ended the ceremony with an ocean cleansing. In Hawaiian tradition, Healani explained, one must ask the ocean for permission to enter before simply running in, “—just as you would when entering someone’s house.” So, I asked the sea if I could enter, and walked in—in my clothes, so I’d suggest dressing accordingly—then splashed myself with water, the idea being to cleanse myself of negativity. Negativity is even held in your hair, Healani said—even ambient negativity that may be in your vicinity—and the ocean cleanses all. She also explained that in the Hawaiian tradition, the ocean, being sacred, is ready to absorb your burdens and anxieties. On hearing this, my anxieties about getting my clothes wet vanished, and I went for it. It was an incredible experience that I would urge you not to miss—a meaningful way to learn about Hawaiian tradition, and it happens every morning!
Also don’t miss the Lū’au, considered one of the best on the island. It was so much fun and an amazing way to spend an evening. They roast a Kahlua pig the traditional way (in the ground under many layers of sand and dirt, and covered in banana leaves) and an amazing dance performance carries you through Hawaiian history and the history of the property, along with a HUGE buffet. It happens at sunset, the most beautiful backdrop, and if you’re lucky you may see some whales in the distance during the show.
Parting words… Mauna Kea was such a fun stay and a great introduction to Hawaii’s Big Island, with the best beach around.
Date of stay… February 16-19, 2026
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