The background… The history of the Manna Hotel is such a good story. In 1913 it was built as a sanatorium for tuberculosis patients, as the mountain air was the cure for it, and then when penicillin made institutions like these obsolete, it was abandoned. The now-owner, Stratis Batagias, went to summer camp about a mile away from the age of five. As a young teenager, he and his friends would sneak over to it with flashlights and tell ghost stories. He was always in love with the building, and when it finally came up for auction in 2014 in the midst of the country’s financial crisis, he bought the lease. It was a huge undertaking—the project took over 7 years to finish, opening in July of 2023. Stratis put so much heart into this place—it’s so thoughtfully conceived and executed—and you can feel that throughout the property.
The vibe… It’s a brilliant place to stay—Matt and I kept saying that we wished there was a place like this within two hours of NYC. We were there on the weekend, and it was filled with chic Athenians in winter/hiking gear. It was the first time in our many trips to Greece that we’ve been the only foreigners in a place—I loved that everyone was speaking Greek to me, but the staff all spoke English, so Matt was fine.
Stratis worked with K-Studio, a prolific Greek architecture firm who have done other noteworthy projects in the country (Dexamenes and Kalesma might ring a bell). While sanatorium might suggest cold and clinical, it’s quite the opposite—it’s warm and cozy with big fireplaces and lots of wood and shearling details, but also quiet and minimal. Our room was a suite with a large copper tub, and huge windows onto the fir forests of the mountains. We loved the staff—from the friendliest front doormen (wearing the best gray wool capes) to the enthusiastic front desk team, bartenders and waiters.
The food and drink… Our first meal, dinner, was epic. While their kitchen leans mountain Greek, they do some clever riffs—the lamb shank was cooked sous vide before it was roasted, so it was the most delicious, moist (hate that word but what else?!) lamb I’ve ever eaten. There was a fantastic Greek salad that substituted pumpkin and sweet potato for tomatoes, in keeping with their seasonal approach. And there were all sorts of dishes incorporating local foraged mushrooms or truffles. They have a wine cellar with a very informed team of waiters who directed us to wines we would never have known about. Breakfasts are incredible—one area has all the bread and pastry offerings with at least three kinds of “pies”: spinach, cheese, and a chicken/tomato one, as well as a sweet bougatsa. There were several types of yogurts (I loved the local sheep one) and at least three kinds of local honey—one of them opalescent and thick called vanilia, the best honey I’ve ever had. Local jams (fig, melon, strawberry), which were made in season, were incredible. And that was just part of the buffet. On the last day, we ordered scrambled eggs with zucchini, mint and feta, which were so good we’re going to copy it when we get home. The cocktails were also spot on; while we are consistently martini and Negroni people, they had a great selection of whisky and bourbon—exactly what you want in the mountains.
The wellness…Even if I hadn’t left my room and just sat on the outdoor terrace, staring out over the fir forest and breathing in the cleanest air, the trip would have been worth it. But of course we were going to take advantage of all the hiking trails just outside the front door—we were in Arcadia, after all, the origin of the metaphorical utopia. There are over 80km of marked trails in this area, called the Mainalo Trail, and many of the paths have been used since antiquity.
We were lucky to have good weather, albeit quite cold. It was around 35 degrees, which is freezing for Greece, but it was perfect for hiking. On our first hike we walked about 6km through some of the most beautiful mossy oak-filled path and past waterfalls, and end in the tiny village of Valtesiniko, the site of an ornate church with beautiful chandeliers and iconography (apparently it’s one of 30 churches here!). We sat down for a cappuccino at Valtesiniko Cafe, which was so lovely and had the sweetest waiter—then the hotel sent someone to come pick us up so we didn’t have to walk all the way back. On our second day of hiking, we went out with a guide named Panagiotis who had moved to the area as a young man during the financial crisis, as there were no jobs in Athens. He taught himself survival skills, mushroom/plant/tree identification, memorized all of the trails, started his company, Explore Mainalo, and never looked back. While the mushroom season was very much over and we weren’t really on a truffle hunt, we had a beautiful hike, and he made us want to come back in the spring or fall for sure. Back at the hotel, we had excellent deep-tissue massages in the spa that leans Japanese, with a sauna and plunge pool. Even the gym is beautifully edited—all the equipment has wood and leather details.
Be sure to… Go to the Ioseph Taverna in the neighboring village of Magouliana, owned by two brothers who are farmers and butchers, Yiorgos and Thanassis (who happens to also be the mayor and the only taxi driver in the area). It was packed with locals and Greeks visiting for the weekend, a pinch-me moment for sure. The food was divine—grilled lamb chops, braised wild boar and fries, wild kale, their own homemade feta, and homemade yogurt with honey for dessert. We ate there for lunch two days in a row. The veal chop on day two was legendary. There’s also an honor cafe in Lasta, the neighboring village, where you can help yourself to ouzo, raki, coffee—even make yourself some eggs—and just leave what you can in the money box.
Date of Stay… Jan 12-15, 2024
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