In short… Experimental’s second Alpine site (after Verbier in Switzerland) and the 11th globally, brings the group’s trademark good-time vibe to one of France’s most celebrated ski resorts. If you’re a pleasure-seeking skier like me (looking for blue skies, reliable snow, and a day that revolves around an abundance of good meals), this is for you.
The surroundings… Val d’Isère is one of the better-known French ski resorts, famed for its dependable snow season—much of its 147km stretch of pistes sits above 2000m—and for its exciting nightlife, which often starts in daylight hours, with après-ski at the famous mid-mountain restaurant-cum-day-club, La Folie Douce. The linked area of Val d’Isère-Tignes also makes this one of the biggest in France, and you can’t beat the location of this new Chalet — the hotel is just a short walk from the ski lifts. The town itself has several great bars and restaurants too, including two at Experimental, so you needn’t venture far if the mountain has worn you out.
The backstory… I’ve now stayed in a handful of properties from this group, and genuinely feel that the team behind Experimental—Romée de Goriainoff, Pierre-Charles Cros, Olivier Bon and Xavier Padovani—have mastered a difficult niche: quality F&B design hotels that combine a family-friendly environment with nightlife. Given their demographics—a group of 40-somethings with their own kids—it tracks. The new property is a largely cosmetic revamp of the former four-star hotel, L’Aigle De Neige, inheriting its stone and dark-wood façade but brightening the interiors with the help of their regular collaborator, Dorothée Meilichzon.
The vibe… The revamp feels tastefully restrained and a little more stripped back than we’re used to seeing from the French interior designer Dorothée Meilichzon, known for her love of maximalism and modern pattern play. The downstairs common areas are enormous—great for big groups who want to meet in the bar, but also for smaller get-togethers. I spent more than one afternoon camped out by the central open fire with a book, watching skiers drift in and out. This is a cosy spot for cake and tea in the afternoon, which became my 4 pm ritual.
The rooms… Upstairs, most of the 113 rooms are modestly sized, so you don’t want to spend too much time in them, but they’re cosily furnished in shades of terracotta, deep green, and dark blue, with charming window seats, and many rooms have balconies. The bedding is genuinely comfortable — the kind that makes getting up for first lifts a real negotiation. Since I stayed, the top floor has been opened, with three larger suites offering sweeping views of the snowy slopes and peaks that I’m now slightly jealous I missed.
The wellness… The spa offers a perfect post-ski ritual: hammam, sauna, and cold-plunge repeat. I did this sequence twice in one afternoon and felt like a new person. There’s also a 15m indoor heated swimming pool and a menu of beauty treatments, including massages and facials with Dr Barbara Sturm.
The food & drink… The larger, sunlight-filled L’Aigle D’Or brasserie is ideal for larger dining parties and features cosy banquettes. This is also where the impressive buffet breakfast is served each morning. The cosier Savoyard option, L’Aiglon, serves up raclettes and classic fondue with Beaufort, comté, and gruyère, alongside local charcuterie. The latter is a must-try for visitors who don’t know this style of regional cuisine—it’s not light fare, but after a day on the slopes, I feel anything goes. There’s also the ‘70s-inspired Experimental Cocktail Club with its plush carpet, low-lying couches and hand-carved wooden bar. The Saint Germain de Prés cocktail, a gin and egg-white-based, cucumber-spiked concoction, became my evening order. On Fridays and Saturdays, they have a DJ, too, which gives the whole place a proper buzz.
Extra tip goes to… If you’re looking for where to eat on the mountain, have the concierge team offer suggestions and book in advance. They know all the best spots to eat on the slopes and won’t steer you wrong. Don’t miss La Folie Douce!
Be sure to… let the team take care of everything; there’s even an on-site equipment hire service downstairs, which saved me the faff of organizing skis elsewhere.
Parting words… A polished and comfortable but unpretentious base for skiers who want to have a good time after a long day on the slopes. I’d go back in a heartbeat.
Date of stay… January 2024.
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