In short… A warren of connecting historical buildings makes for a cozily atmospheric stay in the heart of Old Lyon, with a restaurant worthy of France’s gastronomic capital.
The surroundings… During the Renaissance, Lyon was a thriving center of the silk and spice trades, and much of that history remains amazingly intact in Vieux Lyon. Its narrow streets, now part of a UNESCO World Heritage site, are lined with buildings ranging from medieval to Renaissance to nineteenth century, intersected by tiny passageways called traboules: secret corridors once used by silk traders to move textiles around during bad weather and to keep them out of reach of thieves. (The hotel gives you a helpful map for finding them.)
The Cour des Loges, A Radisson Collection Hotel on Rue du Boeuf, puts you right in the middle of it all. The surrounding streets are pedestrianized, something to keep in mind if you arrive with significant luggage (the hotel can send assistance to your drop-off point). But once you’re settled, much of Lyon is within walking distance or short Uber ride, from some of the city’s most famous bouchons (small, unfussy bistros devoted to Lyonnais cooking) to its world-class museums and scenic riverbanks of both the Rhône and the Saône.
I happened to be there during Lyon’s biggest annual event, the Fête des Lumières, which takes over the city for several nights every December. People come from all over the world to wander the streets as elaborate sound-and-light installations transform the old façades, stopping along the way for mulled cider and steaming portions of tartiflette cooked in enormous cauldrons on the street. It was a pretty magical introduction to the city.
The backstory… The hotel itself is arguably something of a traboule: a warren of four interconnected medieval and Renaissance houses joined by passageways and mezzanines, and encompassing several interior courtyards with spiral staircases from the 15th and 16th centuries, like some kind of Escher drawing. Over the centuries, various parts of the fooprint have been used as a dairy, a noble house, residences for Italian merchants, and a Jesuit college—a layered history you can feel as you make your way through the building.
The property was transformed into a boutique hotel in 1987 by the Sibuet family (best known for their hotels in Megève and Saint-Tropez), and it reopened as part of the Radisson Collection in 2025 (worth noting that Radisson is very different in Europe than in the U.S.!), following a heritage-conscious renovation led by a French architect specializing in the preservation of French historic landmarks.
The vibe… I’d heard that the previous incarnation leaned more French rustic, and the new design brings a decidedly more contemporary sensibility. While my own tastes are more old-school, I appreciated the nods to Italian modernism, a reference to the Italian merchants who came to Lyon during the height of the silk trade. The showstopper is the soaring interior courtyard, set beneath a glass canopy and ringed by the building’s original balconies. It’s where breakfast is served in the morning and, by evening, becomes home to the Michelin-starred Les Loges restaurant. The palette throughout is dark and theatrical, most strikingly in the courtyard’s deep terracotta—“andouille”—walls, recreated with natural pigments in accordance with the city’s approved historic palette. For all its visual drama, the courtyard itself is more striking than inviting. The places I was most drawn to were tucked into the building’s maze, little alcoves and sitting areas including a snug den with a sofa and stacks of coffee-table books and the convivial 1341 Bar, with a handsome wood-and-brass counter.
The rooms… Each of the 61 rooms is different, but all retain some degree of historic detail, from timbered ceilings to ornate painted headboards to large fireplaces and tapestries, contrasted with more contemporary furnishings. Mine was on the interior mezzanine, which I’d probably advise against: it was difficult to completely close the drapes, so I felt a bit exposed to fellow guests walking by, and the toilet and sink were in separate areas—no doubt a consequence of fitting modern plumbing into a centuries-old building.
I’d opt instead for one of the street-facing rooms, as the views over picture-book Old Lyon are part of the pleasure of staying here. There are also much more spacious rooms and suites on upper floors with sitting areas, soaring ceilings, and generous bathrooms with clawfoot tubs. Wherever you sleep, it’s lovely to wake up to the sound of church bells.
The food & drink… After closing for renovations, Les Loges had to earn back its Michelin star distinction, which it did this past spring. Chef Anthony Bonnet has helmed the kitchen here with acclaim for many years, turning out five to eight-course tasting menus guided by the seasons and Lyon’s cornucopia of local produce. Especially good: beef “in the Mézenc tradition,” poached in a hay-infused bouillon; foraged wild mushrooms with watercress and hazelnuts; slow-cooked veal in Beaujolais cider; and lamb with chestnuts and fermented plums—basically, early winter on a plate. The wine list focuses on the region, too, with plenty of bottles from the Rhône Valley, Jura, and Beaujolais.
While I appreciated the ambition and precision of the meal, I was far more at home at Le Comptoir, the hotel’s relaxed bistro, where we had a fabulous dinner of beet tartelette, guinea-fowl terrine, and grass-fed beef from Ardèche, washed down with red wine from the Cote Rôtie, just south of Lyon. And don’t sleep on the sourdough bread with rosemary butter.
The wellness… There’s a tiny gym on an upper floor, and down in the basement, a Roman-inspired pool (Lyon first emerged as a Roman city), along with a sauna and steam bath.
Is it family friendly? There are a few suites suitable for families, but given the echo of the internal courtyard, the kids should be reasonably well behaved. Besides, the hotel feels like a pretty adult place, best suited to for sophisticated meals and absorbing the culture just outside its doors.
Extra tip goes to… The GM, Sandrine Nallet, who has worked at the hotel for many years and is generous with her knowledge about its history and the surrounding city.
Be sure to… Try the local specialty, pâté en croute. Bonnet is a skilled practitioner and serves one at Le Comptoir. We ventured out to Daniel et Denise, a rustic and convivial little bouchon with red-and-white checked tablecloths, helmed by chef Joseph Viola. His elaborate paté en croute, made with 14 different meats and requiring two days of preparation, has won major awards. (Also order the pike quenelle and tarte Tatin.)
The hotel can also arrange a visit to L’Atelier du Soierie, where silk scarves are still printed in the Lyon tradition using silk-screening and block printing. The atelier has produced pieces for Hermès, as well as collaborations with the estates of artists including Raoul Dufy and Sonia Delaunay, and there’s a lovely little shop where you can pick up a scarf of your own.
Parting words… I wish I’d been able to stay for three or four days, and have thought often about when I can get back. Lyon is a city that has main-character energy but is small enough to be easily navigable on foot, bike and Uber, and there is so much to do. Don’t miss the bustling Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse market, or the relatively compact but power-packed Musée des Beaux Arts, which spans some 5,000 years of art history, from ancient Egypt to the modern era, with a spectacular decorative-arts collection (ceramics galore, plus the breathtaking “Chien Danoise” marble sculpture by Georges Gardet). There’s also the Opéra de Lyon, in a building redesigned by Jean Nouvel—which also houses the ballet corps—and the Lumière brothers birthed their Cinémaographe here, and that history is on display at the Institut Lumière. The Cour des Loges makes a great base for all of it.
Date of stay… December 2025
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