Château La Commaraine, Pommard, Burgundy

In short… Burgundy has long been known for producing exceptional wine and Michelin-starred restaurants that do those bottles justice, but the luxury hotel scene has floundered. Château La Commaraine, which opened in July, changed all that.

The surroundings… In the heart of Pommard, a tiny village of around 600 residents in the Côte de Beaune region of Burgundy. It’s surrounded by vineyards full of Pinot Noir grapes and wine is still made on the estate. Paul Krug, the winemaker, is descended from the celebrated champagne family.

The backstory… The estate’s history dates to the 12th century, when the Duke of Burgundy gifted it to the knight Jean de Pommard. Wine has been made there for centuries, and Thomas Jefferson was among the first to formally judge them back in 1787, when he visited La Commariane and declared the bottles to be of “excellent quality.” The property has changed hands over the years, and in 2017 it was purchased by Denise Dupré and Mark Nunnelly, who masterminded a top-to-bottom renovation. (They also oversee the Royal Champagne, in Champagne, and Le Barthélemy, in St. Bart’s.)

The vibe… Like an unusually tasteful billionaire’s private estate, combined with a peerless spa that would even floor Gwyneth Paltrow.

The rooms… La Commaraine’s 37 rooms and suites have views of the vineyards, winery, or village, and they retain some elements of the original architecture — wood beams, stone walls, wide-plank oak floors. But the tailored, classic furnishings wouldn’t look out of place in a pristine Fifth Avenue apartment. It was wise of the designers to avoid skewing too casual, because while La Commaraine’s attitude is relaxed, this is a very serious hotel. The bedrooms benefit from a warm, earth-toned color palette that’s offset with muted gold and silvery textiles. Bathrooms and dressing areas rival them in size, and they’re kitted out with double sinks, standalone tubs, and Diptyque products. The Rotonde suite, located in a 14th century tower, is the most atmospheric place to be.

The food & drink… There are two restaurants. Le Clos is a brasserie-style spot serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner; it sprawls out gloriously onto the terrace adjacent to the swimming pool. Le VIII, a more formal affair, serves dinner, and is jonesing for Michelin designation. The wine list at both restaurants is predictably biblical, so it’s okay to spend sufficient time worshipping it.

The wellness… A Technogym-equipped fitness room, a searingly hot, minimalist sauna, and mosaic-tiled cold plunge and jacuzzi make this one of the finest spas I’ve seen in France. The spa boutique is also tempting, and it includes some great swimwear designers I hadn’t seen anywhere else. (In short: no Eres!)

Is it kid-friendly? Very much so; the valet knew the names of my children (and dog!) when we arrived. Everyone was very gracious in ensuring that my 11- and 13-year-old felt welcome in what could, in different hands, be construed as an extremely adult experience. (My 13-year-old loved the nonalcoholic champagne!)

Extra tip goes to… Florent Chaveau, the stylish and friendly director, who greeted us on both arrival and check-out and clearly set the tone for attentive but unobtrusive service. And to whomever devised the canine room-service menu, which included what appeared to be a steak tartare, thanks. My cocker spaniel is spoiled for life.

Be sure to…Take a tour of the Pommard vineyards on e-bike, which the hotel is very happy to arrange. And order a few glasses of champagne at the pool — it’s only right, given that you’ll be staring at the vines while lazing on your lounge chair.

Parting words… Every August for our family vacation, we rent the same house in Les Baux de Provence. We used to travel there by flying from London to Marseille. From now on, we’re making the 15-hour drive — not only because we can bring our dog, but because it also gives us a perfect excuse to overnight, yet again, at this peerless hotel. I think it was my husband’s favorite 24 hours of the entire summer.

Date of stay…August 21-22, 2026