In short… A 1960s South Tyrolean lodge reborn in 2024 as a soulful, 13-room hideaway in one of the region’s most hushed settings. Layered with antiques, filled with some 16,000 books, and lovingly helmed by the husband-and-wife owners, Berghoferin feels like the Alpine equivalent of an English country manor.
The surroundings… Situated beneath the peaks of Corno Bianco and Corno Nero in the sleepy hamlet of Redagno di Sopra, the secluded property feels worlds away from the action of Bolzano, just 40 kilometers away. Your neighbors are cow-filled meadows, a smattering of traditional wood farmhouses, the 15th-century St. Wolfgang Church, and not much else. Guests come for the solitude and the feeling of having a slice of South Tyrol all to themselves; from the hotel’s panoramic back terrace you have unobstructed, high-up views of the Italian, Austrian, and Swiss mountains. The sunsets are spectacular!
The backstory… While the property has existed since the 1960s, it only very recently was transformed into a hotel by a young husband-and-wife team—she, a local whose family has owned the property for more than 25 years, he a former banker from Munich—who oversaw all aspects of the lodge’s transformation and are on hand 24/7 to deliver the kind of exacting, personalized service that’s increasingly hard to find. Great care was taken to preserve a sense of history and authenticity. For example, a 600-year-old wood-panelled stube (a traditional Alpine hut) now doubles as the hotel’s most intimate, romantic dining rooms and is one of only two remaining from this period—the other resides in the museum of Bolzano.
The vibe… Botanical wallpaper, a treasure trove of antiques and regional oddities, and colorful Josef Frank Svenskt Tenn fabrics lend a bright, maximalist vibe, yet the vivid interiors never compete with the quiet beauty of the surroundings. Most of the property’s guests stay for weeks at a time and many are creative types (the owners mentioned a prima ballerina and a conductor), which explains the assortment of eclectic seating areas and the hotel’s 16,000-book library. I loved poring over the collection, especially titles from independent local publisher Edition Raetia, then curling up to read fireside, in the glass-walled solarium, or in the “smoking room,” done up in vintage smoking paraphernalia, porcelain knick-knacks, a canary-yellow velvet sofa with scroll arms. The staff are always smiling and impeccably dressed in traditional Alpine outfits like dirndl-style dresses and ruffled aprons.
The rooms… There are just 13 suites, each named for the mountain most visible from its terrace (mine was Ortler, the highest peak in South Tyrol). My welcome “gift” was the chef’s traditional Zelten winter cake—a Trentino specialty made with dried and candied fruits—which I promptly sliced into before retreating to my spacious outdoor loggia, swaddled in a wool blanket. Inside, pine paneling and a palette of deep blues and mustard yellows brightened the space, with botanical accents lending a spring-like freshness. It’s clear the rooms are designed for extended stays: mine had two bathrooms, two generous seating areas (not counting the terrace), and ample storage. Still, the highlight was the sumptuous, cloud-like bed, dressed in Rivolta Carmignani linens and positioned to look out to the mountains—a spot I could have happily hibernated in all winter.
The food & drink… Everything at Berghoferin feels deeply personal, and the meals—rooted in Alpine and Mediterranean Alto Adige culinary traditions—are no exception. We arrived hungry after a two-hour drive from Verona, and the chef immediately set to work, preparing a buttery vegetable tart and silky beef cannelloni to share, followed by a divine cream-topped panettone and a warming botanical infusion blended by a Chinese tea sommelier based in Vienna. Evenings began with aperitifs by the fire (I recommend the non-alcoholic blackberry fizz), before we were shown to our private dining room for a candlelit meal. Though other guests were staying at the lodge, we never dined alongside them, which made it feel as though we had the place entirely to ourselves. Breakfast is served in the light-filled indoor patio, with standout offerings including sweet-braided yeast bread, fluffy Kaiserschmarrn pancakes, and local Alpine yogurt topped with house-made granola and red berries.
The wellness… While I didn’t have time to indulge in a Susanne Kaufmann massage or facial during my stay, I made ample use of the amenities in the cozy, heavenly-scented spa, including Finnish saunas, steam baths, and contrast showers. I particularly loved the Swiss pine banya and the wood-fired hot tub, both located down a footpath from the outdoor pool, overlooking the mountains and a forested pond. The indoor relaxation room is also a highlight, dominated by a large, crackling wood fireplace and a series of beautifully upholstered chaise longues that look like they belong in a Viennese psychoanalyst’s waiting room.
Is it kid-friendly? While kids over the age of 12 are accepted, the vibe is very exclusive and tailored to adults who are seeking R&R.
Be sure to… Take the owners up on their offer to help you explore the area and share their favorite local spots. One morning, we asked for recommendations for a gentle hike followed by a decadent lunch, and they didn’t disappoint, sending us on a forested trail near the village of Aldein that led to a glacial lake, then on to a memorable meal at a family-owned, 16th-century South Tyrolean restaurant called Gasthof Krone. The food was excellent (order the Wiener schnitzel with tart cranberry sauce), and our fellow diners were all well-heeled Italians, Germans, and Austrians.
Parting words… With swish new hotels popping up across South Tyrol and the Dolomites, Berghoferin feels like a secluded, refined pocket of old Alpine charm—an increasingly rare breed in this corner of Italy. I first heard about the hotel through fellow freelance journalist Laura May Todd, a design writer based in Milan, and after staying there, I fully understand her breathless praise. It’s the kind of place I’d happily return to again and again, and one I’ll be recommending to all my design-loving friends and family.
Date of stay… December 2025
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