Dispatch from The Hudson Valley

I have been visiting the Hudson Valley since I was a kid. Stretching from Westchester (just above New York City) to Albany two and a half hours north, my love for the area eventually led me to create And North, a curated guide to Upstate New York. With incredible architecture, world renowned hiking trails, dozens of special towns, and, of course, the mighty Hudson River that runs through them, the Hudson Valley is a landscape like no other. Through covering the area for the past ten years, I have witnessed an incredible renaissance throughout the region. Countless independent shops, restaurants, and hotels have opened and the cities of Hudson and Kingston saw the largest spike of new residents in the entire country during COVID. However, the allure of this area is not something new; New York City residents have been flocking to the countryside for hundreds of years, finding respite from the crowded city, opportunities for small business owners, and inspiration in nature like the Hudson River painters of the 19th century. 

This is a large region, so we recommend splitting up the trip into multiple visits. While there are trains that go to cities and towns like Hudson, Beacon, and Rhinebeck, taking a car is our preferred means of transportation so we can easily drive from town to town and take in the beautiful scenic views along the way. I’ve included some of my favorite places to visit throughout the region but my hope is that these will serve as a jumping off point for exploring all that the area has to offer. Happy travels! 

Eat

Eliza:  Neighborhood bistro with a welcoming feel and delicious food in midtown Kingston 

Rosie’s: Warm atmosphere offering sandwiches and groceries in downtown Kingston

Brunette Wine Bar: Prettiest natural wine bar in the land, go for the orange wine, stay for the delicious bites and playlists. Located in downtown Kingston. 

Village Coffee and Goods: When someone asks where to get some great lunch and an exceptional cup of coffee in Kingston, this is where I send them. 

Feast & Floret: Delicious Italian fare in a stunning 19th-century carriage house in Hudson. Oh, and they have fresh flowers sold by the stem! (I’ve spent my past two birthdays here, it’s a gem.) 

Lil’ Debs: Pan-Latin plates and craft beer in a playful and artistic setting, located in Hudson

Harana Market: Well beloved homestyle Filipino food and a selection of Asian groceries in Accord 

Good Night: Pan-Asian cuisine with a modern twist set in a dreamy setting (think pink velvet banquettes and delicious natural wine) in Woodstock 

Del’s Roadside: Burgers, dogs and farm-to-table ice cream at a roadside location, what else could you want on a warm summer’s day? In Rhinebeck. 

Morning Bird: All-day cafe serving exceptional southeast Asian dishes in the charming town of Kinderhook. (Get a breakfast sandwich, thank us later.) 

Fortunes Ice Cream: This homemade ice cream spot in Tivoli draws visitors from near and far. It’s that good. 

Stay

Rivertown Lodge: This 27 room boutique hotel is housed in a former 1920s moviehouse and is set on Warren Street in Hudson, one of the region’s best spots for antiques, restaurants, and people watching. (Make sure to eat in their delicious tavern.) 

Church Des Artistes: ​​Transport yourself to Northern France in this church turned rental home with a secret garden courtyard, with room for 14 guests and the best hosts you could ask for. Think white linen canopy beds, clawfoot tubs and a great room with soaring ceilings. Set in Kingston’s Rondout, the church is an easy walk to the river and great shops. 

Hotel Kinsley: Luxurious boutique hotel spaced out between four architecturally distinct buildings in historic uptown Kingston district (If you can swing it, stay in the suite in the Wall Street building). 

Mohonk Mountain House: Victorian castle resort nestled on 40,000 acres of protected forest, overlooking a pristine glacial lake in New Paltz. Think Swiss Alps in the Hudson Valley. Go for the day and experience their spa and hiking trails or plan a weekend getaway to experience all this spot has to offer. 

The Villa at Saugerties: Luxurious four-room bed and breakfast with amazing breakfast and grounds in Saugerties

Starlite Motel: 1960’s motor lodge located at the foot of the Catskills in the Hudson Valley. Wonderful staff, salt water pool, and retro-inspired rooms. 

The Maker Hotel: This luxurious hotel features a cafe, restaurant, and a stunning lounge housed in a 19th-century carriage house. They also make incredible fragrances, and have an epic fragrance library where guests can try different scents before heading downstairs for dinner.

Explore 

Olana: Hudson River painter Frederick Church’s estate overlooking the Hudson, trust us and just go. (Grounds are open year round and free to visitors. House tours are available for a fee)

Hudson River Maritime Museum: Maritime museum in Kingston offering exhibits, boat tours and a wooden boat school. We recently went for the first time and loved every second.   

Sam’s Point Preserve: Stunning preserve on the highest section of the Shawangunk Mountains. Hike the expansive 5,000-acre property and visit the ice caves and waterfall. Located in Cragsmoor.

Greenville Drive-in: Fantastic drive-in showing classic old films and serving delicious cocktails in Greenville.

Trolley Museum of New York: Ride along the river in a historic trolley in Kingston, from late April to late October.

Saugerties Lighthouse: A 1869 landmark beacon on the Hudson River that stands proudly as a living museum and a renowned bed & breakfast. Pack a picnic, check the tide schedule, and take the short hike out for the day. 

Hudson Ferry Company: Take a ferry across The Hudson River from Athens to Hudson and back to take in the views of the mountains, river, and lighthouse. Also available for charters and longer rides. 

Levon Helm Studios: Home of Levon’s legendary midnight rambles, this concert venue hosts intimate concerts and events in Woodstock.

Shop

Rodgers Book Barn: Used book store off a dirt road with over 20,000 titles in Hillsdale. This place is out of a fairytale. 

Talbott & Arding: The best spot for provisions, cheese and to-go meals located in Hudson

Maple Lawn: My personal favorite antique store in the Hudson Valley. Located in Stone Ridge, NY. (Grab a coffee at Black Dot next door before perusing vintage furniture. Oh, and tell Ron we say hello.)  

Clove & Creek: Fantastic shop with gifts and objects for the home and great outdoors, locations in Hudson and Kingston

Rough Draft: Neighborhood favorite bar & bookstore, great selection of books, craft beer, and coffee located in uptown Kingston 

Kingston Consignments: Large antiques center, perfect for discovering treasures and getting lost, in uptown Kingston 

Lovefield Vintage: One of our favorite vintage clothing shops upstate, located in uptown Kingston. 

Newt Boutique: A collection of exceptional and unlikely objects in uptown Kingston 

Red Chair: Stunning collection of Swedish, Belgian and French antiques in Hudson

Montgomery Place Farm Stand: No trip to upstate is complete without a stop at a farm stand for local vegetables and fruit. We would happily drive hours to go to this one; she is just special.