Dispatch from Salina, Aeolian Islands, Sicily

There’s something magnetic and mesmerizing about the Aeolian archipelago—its volcanic landscapes and ethereal views, the deep cerulean blue of its waters and scorched black earth of its lava, its relative inaccessibility and periodic isolation, the salty intensity of its crunchy capers and the sweet ripe rush of its granitas.

When I founded Maremma Safari Club in 2016, I travelled for a year on foot around Italy to research my itineraries, walking across nine Italian regions over nine months—one month per region. Sicily was my first stop, and the moment I set foot on Salina in the Aeolian Islands, I knew I would do a trip there. I’ve been going back with my guests every year ever since.

Salina is an unpredictable, sometimes unruly place. Its messy charms can’t easily be reduced to a neat, rigid list, so I’d rather share some of my favourite spots more organically here—by loosely following the walking route of my Aeolian Safari trip, a five-day circumambulation of Salina on a continuous trail divided into daily stages.

We start in Rinella, the island’s secondary port—a small, sleepy town with Salina’s only sandy beach (elsewhere it’s pebbles or rocky coves). I like to stay at Hotel L’Ariana for its perfect location right above the pier and for the stunning views back towards Lipari and Vulcano from the private terraces of their Deluxe Rooms. The property also has direct access to the water, with some great snorkeling spots just below the hotel. 

My favourite place to eat in town is Pa.Pe.Ro. “Al Glicine” run by three siblings; for aperitivo, they do great cocktails on their sunset terrace, then you move downstairs for an informal meal, often consisting of a multitude of small bites (stuffed squid, caponata, eggplant parmigiana, wild fennel pasta. amberjack meatballs and beyond). Their secret weapon is an unusual dessert: ricotta granita with candied capers and caper powder.

From Rinella, a small footpath heads up the hill to the town of Leni, and then contours east towards the aptly named Vallespina (Valley of the Thorns). You can either loop back to town, or, if you’re fit and keen enough, climb up over the ridge, and eventually into a sunken volcanic caldera down to the hamlet of Pollara. First stop: the sea—this is one of Salina’s most spectacular swim spots, with the best sunsets to boot (the popular Italian movie Il Postino was filmed here). 

Next up: capers. Pollara produces the island’s best capers, whose extraordinary quality has been officially certified by the Slow Food organization. My friend Maurizia offers visits, tastings and a delicious range of caper products at her farm on the edge of town, Sapori Eoliani. 

Most people visit Pollara as a day-trip or just an afternoon, but I prefer staying a few nights at Locanda del Postino, a charming family-run hotel with a relaxed vibe and some extremely seductive hammocks.

Between Pollara and Malfa, we usually take a detour to the summit of Monte dei Porri, one of Salina’s twin volcanic peaks. It’s a challenging hike but well worth the effort—on a clear day you can see Mount Etna fuming far to the south, and the coastline of Calabria across the Straits of Messina, curling away northwards towards Napoli. Malfa is one of Salina’s larger towns, with a wide range of services and facilities. My go-to hotel is Principe di Salina, an all-round delightful property with dreamy views of Stromboli and a fabulous infinity pool (and pool bar). Dinners are at a long shared table and involve multiple helpings of pasta served from a gigantic pasta pot by hotel owner Anita (warning: she also makes a mean margarita.) 

There are a wide range of good restaurants in Malfa town: La Pinnata del Monsu for traditional Aeolian fare, U Cucunciu for pizza with the locals, Ristorante Signum for Michelin-starred fine dining (with the option to recover from the tasting menu at the smart Signum Spa).

The last leg of our Aeolian journey, from Malfa to the main port of Santa Marina, goes via the summit of Monte Fossa delle Felci—the highest point in the Aeolian archipelago. From there it’s a long way down to the sea; upon arrival in Santa Marina, multiple rewards await: a granita (from Il Chioschetto da Silvio by the port or historic Da Alfredo in Lingua down the road); a glass of local Malvasia wine (from Hauner, Caravaglio or Fenech); and finally a dinner of seafood crudi and fresh fish at Mamma Santina or Portobello.

Santa Marina port is both the end-point of the Aeolian Safari, and a point of departure: back to Milazzo, back to the mainland. Back to normal life on the continent. But I keep returning to Salina year after year—drawn by the island’s mesmerizing magnetism.