Dispatch from Kanazawa

If you’re looking for cherry blossoms and cultural history, but the crowds in Kyoto sound off-putting, consider a couple of days in Kanazawa—2.5 hours north of Tokyo by Shinkansen at the base of the Noto Peninsula. We traveled—teenagers in tow—to this small city last April, mid-bloom, and spent three nights at Korinkyo, a small, design-minded hotel within walking distance of the museums, parks and fish market. It opened a few years back in a narrow, concrete-and-steel building that formerly housed a distillery (there’s nothing else like it in Kanazawa)—the hotel’s large guest rooms feature minimalist, concrete interiors, cozy platform beds, and supersized bathrooms, great for a family. On the roof, Korinkyo’s onsen looks out over the city’s rooftops and the trees from the park across the street. The sauna, and hot and cold pools are a great way to schedule some downtown when everyone is tired from sightseeing. Breakfast served at Karch, the hotel’s restaurant, features a traditional Taiwanese set that’s an experience in itself. If your kids are picky eaters (as one of ours tends to be) or you’re dying for your morning cup of coffee (Korinkyo serves tea), there is a donut shop a couple of doors down from the hotel and coffee shops in abundance in the surrounding alleys.

Kanazawa is a walkable city, and Korinkyo is centrally located. Dive into it with an early morning visit to the Omicho Market. A traditional fish market, Omicho is not the tourist trap that Tokyo’s fish market has become, but a local mainstay where everyone does their shopping. Because of Kanazawa’s proximity to the sea, the vendors here source some of Japan’s best and freshest seafood. With over 200 stalls selling everything from seafood to produce and kitchenware, Omicho is a feast for the senses and feels like the beating heart of the city. Lucky visitors may even get the opportunity to stand by and watch the butchering and sale of a bluefin tuna. My kids were blown away by the heft and knife skill it took to turn the fish into steak size portions. Equally enjoyable was watching the locals line up to select their chosen piece of fish. Speaking of, be sure to enjoy a sushi meal at the market. For casual sashimi and nigiri delivered on a conveyor belt, grab a number and line up at Mori Mori. For more variety and a little more sophistication, Yamasan Sushi around the corner is amazing.

With a belly full of fish, it’s time to move and check out some art. Five minutes’ walk from Korinkyo is the 21^st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, an impressive building with a lovely collection of contemporary Japanese art. The Museum’s outdoor sculptures and popular swimming pool installation are worth a visit just for the opportunity to gaze up through the bottom of the cerulean, blue pool. A stone’s throw away is the D.T. Suzuki Museum, a small museum and expansive reflecting pool dedicated to the prominent Buddhist philosopher—the perfect place to hit pause.

A short walk up the hill from the museums is the incredible Kenroku-en garden, considered one of only three “perfect gardens” in Japan. An amazing example of Japanese horticulture and garden design, Kenroku-en is designed to be beautiful in every season, but is especially popular in the spring when the cherry trees bloom, and in the fall when the maple leaves turn. Founded in the early 1600s, Kenroku-en was extended over time by many generations of the Kaga clan of feudal lords. The garden is laid out with a variety of landscapes reflecting different periods, such as ponds, temples, cottages and tea houses. By way of winding streams that connect the ponds and hills, the garden is intentionally designed to encourage strolling. Adjacent to the garden is the impressive 16^th century Kanazawa Castle and Park. A large, hilltop complex with vistas over the city, the massive grounds and architecture are worthy of a long stroll. Limited parts of the Castle are open to the public with a ticket, but restoration is ever evolving. Heads up: in the event of a mid-day refueling emergency, between the park and the castle on the pedestrian path, there are a series of pop-up food carts selling everything from sweet potato fries to candied strawberries on a stick—it’s hard to eat just one.

In between art and culture, strolling and gardens, be sure to take time to experience Kanazawa’s burgeoning café culture. The Japanese take their coffee and pastries seriously, and it would be a shame to miss out on the craft that goes into these tiny little shops. A few favorites along the way are Logic, Coya, One One Otta, and Curio Espresso and Vintage Design.

After refueling, continue the cultural review of Kanazawa by wandering around the city’s geisha and samurai districts. Just a few minutes west of Korinkyo is the Naga-Machi Samurai district. A maze of narrow alleys, cobblestone streets, and low-slung homes, this neighborhood has been respectfully preserved to reflect the Edo era of the Samurai. The Nomura-ke Samurai Residence, a restored home on the edge of the district, is a beautiful example of Edo period architecture and contains a significant collection of samurai artifacts for visitors to view. This is a great place to relax and enjoy a cup of tea in the upstairs tearoom. Stradling the Asano River, about a 20-minute walk from Naga-Machi are Kanazawa’s geisha districts. The Higashi Chaya District, on the east side of the river, is the home to several tea houses which offer tea ceremonies and geisha performances. This is a lovely area to explore in the evening when tourists dwindle, and the light reflects off the old, burnished wood of the traditional homes.

While exploring the streets of Kanazawa, one cannot help but notice the little shops selling traditional gold leaf crafts and lacquerware. These aren’t merely tourists’ shops—they are, in fact, part of Kanazawa’s world-renowned artisan culture, which includes ceramic arts and bamboo weaving. Beyond popping into shops here and there, we didn’t have enough time to dive into this part of the local culture, but it is easily accessible through tours, visits to ateliers, and galleries dedicated to the craft.

What about that great food? Kanazawa is well known for its restaurants serving the freshest seafood in Japan. Traveling with our children, omakase was sadly not the category of dining that we were interested in. While we had some good, casual ramen at Ippudo and loved the sushi at Omichi (thank god for cucumber rolls), we wound up in a few too many Izakaya (Japanese pubs) filled with other English-speaking tourists. Instead, ask the hotel for a recommendation or hop in line with the locals—the food is probably very good, and the experience could end up being amazing.