It took me minutes to decide. I had just arrived in Andalusia for a grueling bike challenge that would take us across half of the Cadiz province, over the Gibraltar strait and into the east coast of Morocco. Two sips of an ice cold cañita and I was sold: I was going to move here. Andalusia had always fascinated me, but I had never considered it as an option, probably because I hadn’t visited it with the personal and professional freedom acquired in recent years. After enduring the relentless hustle and bustle of an overcrowded Ibiza, where I moved back to in 2018, the tranquil beauty and, above all, the cultural depth of Andalusia felt like a breath of fresh air. I am Spanish, but having grown up very internationally, I was yearning for the complete opposite: to live immersed in my own culture, to speak Spanish and to distance myself from the transient expat community. Andalusia presented itself as a sanctuary where traditions are not only preserved but celebrated.
It went much faster than anticipated. A month later I was back in Cadiz, house-hunting with a list of priorities: no more than forty minutes to the sea, hilly landscape for cycling and, for the safety of my dogs, no immediate, busy paved roads. La Sierrazuela, an 18th century cortijo with 524 ancient olive trees, a few minutes’ drive from Arcos de la Frontera, was only the second house I visited with my Swedish real estate agent. I definitely felt something—it had so much potential—but the real wow moment was when we drove into town and I saw that cliff for the very first time: Arcos sits on the very, very edge of a sheer drop and its rugged rock face makes up such a dramatic scene I couldn’t believe I hadn’t even known it existed.
Surrounded by rivers, a lake, hills and valleys, Arcos de la Frontera has, in my opinion, an unbeatable location. If you turn left at the end of my driveway, you are within 20kms of the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park, home to rare and endangered conifer species and a paradise for cyclists and hikers; if you turn right, in less than an hour you can reach anything from a fancy marina, a surfers Shangri-La or some of Europe’s biggest sand dunes. The cultural cities of Jeréz, Cadiz and Sevilla are also close by and it is conveniently near several airports (Jerez, Sevilla, Gibraltar and Malaga).
At home in La Sierrazuela, I have been meticulously restoring the main house—originally built by the Jesuits in the 1750s—and its gardens and, starting this fall, our guest house will be open for bookings. We will also start to roll out an artists’ and writers’ residency program, with special emphasis on nature and cultural heritage, as well as training camps for athletes and day workshops for everything from gardening to mural techniques. Now that I have been living here for the six months (and the transaction is complete), I can confess that I would have paid double: for the moonrise between our olive trees and the summer sunrise just in front of my balcony; the night singing of the blackbirds in April; the taste of the mulberries in June and the absolute joy of having a donkey, a mule and a Shetland roaming freely. An Andalusian horse is next on my list—every single one of my neighbors has gorgeous Spanish purebreds and they often ride together under the full moon. The Andalusian people are known for their warmth and openness. When they say hello, they look you in the eye in a way I don’t think I had ever experienced before.
I compete for our local triathlon team and joined the brotherhood of Las Tres Caídas, which carries the Cristo de las Tres Caídas and the Virgen de la Amargura on Holy Monday; I go to Sunday mass (still awestruck by the beauty of our churches); and I see Miguel, our mayor, on a regular basis for a beer. Unsurprisingly perhaps, in La Sierrazuela and the little, wonderful town of Arcos de la Frontera, my days are all of a sudden so full of life and I have finally found that deeper sense of belonging I’ve yearned for the best part of the last two decades.
In my opinion, there are only a handful of places that understand the importance of cultural preservation. Besides Andalusia, I can think maybe of Scotland and, definitely, the city of Vienna. Places where tradition is not a heavy word. On the contrary: here in Arcos, children get excited about the Semana Santa processions, women and men love dressing up in their chic, traditional attire and teenagers listen to, dance and perform flamenco. Choosing to move to Andalusia was a deliberate embrace of an authentic place where finally, at forty, I have started to build a real home.
STAY
Hacienda Fain Viejo, Arcos de la Frontera
Entire home for rent just a few minutes away from Arcos de la Frontera. Gorgeous property. Ana, the owner, is meticulous with the details and, as you can see in the grounds of the Hacienda, is very passionate about animals.
Hacienda El Rosalejo, Villamartín
An old hacienda loaded with history and with gorgeous gardens overlooking the Sierra de Grazalema. It has its own shooting range and a restaurant with very, very good hamburgers.
La Sierrazuela, Arcos de la Frontera
La Sierrazuela is an 18th-century cortijo originally built by the Jesuits and surrounded by ancient olive trees. Starting in the fall of 2024, its guest house will be available for bookings (ideal for a couple or a family with children) and in the summer of 2025 the entire house (five bedrooms) will be ready. It runs writers and artist residency programs and features what the owner claims to be one of the prettiest chicken coops in the entire Spanish peninsula with gorgeous, rare chicken breeds.
Simple, laid back rural stay in the gorgeous scenery of El Bosque. Andrés, the owner, is a wonderful host.
Finca Cortesín, Casares
A favorite among the British crowd. It has that old school, colonial appeal.
Alcuzcuz Boutique Hotel, Benahavís
A bit of a drive from Arcos (just under two hours), but a lovely place and totally worth the ride. The interiors are extraordinary and the area has so much to offer.
EAT/DRINK
Venta Calderón, Arcos de la Frontera
Salva (the father) and Salvi (the son) are the front-end and back-end of this traditional inn. Two flagship ingredients on their menu: tuna—such deep color it looks like beetroot—and rice. Go for the tuna ribs (you won’t believe it’s tuna when the big plate arrives). Rice: arroz con bogavante or call ahead for one of their chickens (for six). They use the whole bird, even the insides (for the rice) and the tastiest dark meat served separately.
Venta El Tropical or Venta el Pavo, Arcos de la Frontera
One of the various inns in the area, where you can call ahead on a Friday, have them prepare a rice dish for you, and arrive on horseback with your party over the weekend.
Taberna Jóvenes Flamencos, Arcos de la Frontera
An extremely photogenic place in the historic old town of Arcos, decorated with bullfighting memorabilia.
Bar San Marcos, Arcos de la Frontera
A small corner bar with good tapas and great beer. The place usually brings me good luck.
La Molinera, Arcos de la Frontera
I don’t understand the controversy around Cruzcampo beer. Some people snob it out. I like to consider myself a good beer drinker (the kind that doesn’t like artisanal beers) and a cañita (small glass, draft) of Cruzcampo ranks among my top five, easily: light, refreshing, perfect color and bubbles. Particularly the Cruzcampo Glaciar (ice cold), which they serve at La Molinera. Ideal for a spectacular sunset by the Arcos lake with the coldest draft beer and some garlic pickled olives on the side. They also have great cakes.
Horno Artesa, Arcos de la Frontera
Before opening his bakery ten years ago, Paco, the owner, decided to go to Germany and study the craft. I found this out when, by chance, I drove past his store in the industrial park, slightly outside of town, and saw a very long queue. It was just before Christmas and, to my surprise, he even had stollen (growing up in Germany and Austria, the sweet candied bread it is one of my favorite treats for the holiday season). Arcos is well known in the region for good, simple bread, but Paco and Artesa have taken it to a new level. More than once I have seen bread-aficionados on a pilgrimage to his bakery. There is always a queue, but it goes fast.
Helados Toni, San Lucar de Barrameda
A five-generation establishment with indulging treats like the Toniyaki, a brioche sandwich filled with your favorite ice-cream. Experts in mastering the architectural balance between crunchy and creamy.
Bar La Plaza, Cádiz
A wonderful, traditional establishment that recently changed owner, right in front of the wonderful Cadiz cathedral. Hopefully the new management will be able to keep it intact. Try the tortitas de camarones (like a hash brown with shrimp).
Ultramarinos Veedor, Cádiz
Nothing says Spain like a good, traditional store of ultramarinos with its hams, tinned fishes and cheese options. They also make great tortillas and sell artisanal sea salt from Chiclana, which makes the perfect gift (if you are willing to carry it by the kilo) and costs a fraction of the overpriced Sal de Ibiza.
Salón Italiano, Cádiz
An old-school ice cream parlor with nostalgic classics topped with whipped cream and fruit.
Bar Chiquitito, Jeréz
I found this place completely by chance and it became one of my favorites. Tiny bar with big charm, simple tapas, extraordinary jamón and always a good chat with the owner.
TO DO
Churches of San Pedro, Santa María, San Francisco, Arcos de la Frontera
Arcos de la Frontera was historically a very rich town and the evidence for that is in its breathtaking churches, one more beautiful than the other. San Pedro—my personal favorite— and Santa Maria are both within walking distance in the historic center. Services alternate each Sunday between the two, and San Francisco is extra-muris but worth the longer walk if you want to see the most beautiful tiles.
Tesalia, Arcos de la Frontera
The region is very well known for its sherry wines, but Tesalia is doing a fantastic job with reds (they have three options). Book ahead and plan an afternoon visit to the estate. As everyone here, they also have extraordinary horses.
Centro Hípico Las Nieves, Arcos de la Frontera
Book your horseback tour through the Andalusian fields and ride with your party towards a leisurely lunch.
Rastrillo de los Domingos, Jeréz
Sunday flea market with fantastic finds at really good prices. It usually runs from September to June and is closed during the summer months due to the heat.
Processions
Traditions are alive in Andalusia and they will be for the rest of our lifetime because even children are involved and experience them with enthusiasm. Keep an eye for religious processions. Semana Santa is the peak, of course, but you also have El Rocío (a solemn and majestic pilgrimage with horses), Corpus Christi, San Antonio and the various romerías.
Real Escuela Andaluza del Arte Ecuestre, Jeréz
An establishment dedicated to preserving the traditions of the Andalusian horse and the Spanish baroque horsemanship. It has weekly performances with dancing stallions.
Feria del Caballo, Jerez
Compared with the pompous Feria de Sevilla, la Feria del Caballo in Jerez (second half of May) is more accessible, less of a logistical nightmare and, possibly, more fun. Also horse aficionados will claim the best specimens are in Jerez, not Sevilla. In case you are shopping for the best horse sperm, the magnificent grounds for the Deposito de Sementales are just across the street from the fair.
Belén Viviente, Arcos
At night, with its white streets and perfect warm street lighting, Arcos already resembles a Nativity scene. In December, usually the second Saturday, the historical old town becomes a live nativity play for one night only. The passion and dedication is heartwarming—the entire town becomes a Christmas festival.
Beaches
There is an endless option for all types of beachgoers: kite-surf in Tarifa, wild dunes in Bolonia, beach clubs in Sancti Petri, easy chiringuitos in Cala del Aceite or Camposoto.
Horse race on the beach, Sanlúcar de Barrameda
Dating back to 1845, the Sanlúcar Horse Race is a series of horse races held annually at the end of August on the beach.
Cycling
The Sierra de Cádiz has some of the most beautiful and challenging bike routes for road, gravel and mountain bike in the Spanish mainland. Puerto de las Palomas (1,357m above sea level) and Puerto el Boyar (1,103m), both in the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park, are among the most famous in Spain.
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