Channeling: Cap Ferret

There are some places that have such strong style codes that you leave them genuinely influenced. Usually, it’s because they attract a certain crowd with similar tastes. If you go to Patmos without a pair of Venetian slippers in your wardrobe, you’ll probably buy them the minute you get home, along with something from Lisa Corti or Emporio Sirenuse, too. 

Cap Ferret has a completely different and strong vibe—far more barefoot and rustic, but still incredibly chic. Even if it is a favorite destination of chic Bordelaise and Parisians, they are of the barefoot persuasion, not the flashy glam of the Cap Ferrat of the French Riviera. There’s actually a name for the prevailing aesthetic: esprit cabane (“cabin spirit”), a mix of laid-back simplicity and effortless taste. Here’s how to conjure it, wherever you are. 

Worn by sun-beaten fishermen, chic young adults, elegant geezers, and oyster farmers alike, the Fisherman’s Smock is a staple around town. The perfect summer layer—it’s water-resistant, easy to throw on and fairly light. The whole family stocked up on them at the market and hastily adapted them into our wardrobes. 

We saw the most elegant older French women at Chez Hortense sporting their Herve Chapelier bags. They fit so much, are very easy to clean, and are the perfect IYKYK accessory.

Jelly sandals from Meduse are worn by everyone—perfect for around town, a walk at low tide,  and as we found, ideal for a rainy summer’s day.

These Nantucket-style red pants were definitely the pant amongst the middle-aged cool dad set. 

Frilly swimsuits as well as solid colored one-pieces with contrasting white borders were the look of the season. 

Vintage Méharis, DS 21 Citroens, and Defender 90s are the car of the cape. Since our trip, friends have been sending me links to all of them from Bring-a-Trailer. But we also learned about this app Roadstr, which will rent and deliver a variety of vintage cars to wherever you’re staying. (You may have to be French to do this, though.) 

The mussels at Chez Hortense are like none other. And while nothing replaces eating them in their natural environment, this recipe is your second best option. 

When we sat down to eat oysters at Kabane, they came with a little oyster knife, which we’d never had them served with before. Immediately afterwards we bought one at the market—they’re the best way to eat the whole oyster, including the knuckle, which is otherwise a pain to get at. We also figured we’d get some local caché rocking up with our own oyster knife.

Every well-dressed French man, woman, child, young adult and teenager were in Birkenstocks—from Arizonas to Bostons. Feeling influenced, I bought a pair of their “soft-footbed” version, which has changed the game.

You can’t leave or spend time in Cap Ferret without enjoying a glass or two (or many) of white wine from the Graves/Pessac-Leognan area. During our trip, we were introduced to Chateau Peyrat and loved it so much we picked up a case from the very cool wine/book shop called Alice to bring home.

While Cap Ferret is considered incredibly chic, there’s also a casual side that we love so much. Like any beachside town, kids ride bikes in hoodies, picking up coffee at Josie and their morning croissants to bring back to the house.