Casa Monti, Rome

In short… Casa Monti is a stylish and vibrantly decorated boutique hotel that reflects the character of its artistic and historically rich surroundings, with an idyllic rooftop bar.

The surroundings… With its forest-green shutters clinging to cracked stucco walls, winding cobblestone streets lined with graffiti about soccer and sex, windowsills crowded with cats, and statues of the Madonna, Monti is the fastest way to disappear (12 minutes on foot) from Termini into the dream that is Rome. Although my wife and I used to live in Trastevere—Monti’s younger and livelier cousin across the Tiber—we often spent our Sundays here. In Monti, you can forget you are in one of the world’s most visited cities and have the postcard image of Rome you always imagined: a peaceful, hazy stroll with gelato and artisans on every corner. So, on a quick layover on a sweltering August evening, we were thrilled to check into the latest effort from the Leitmotiv hotel group, Casa Monti (still in its “soft opening”). On the corner of our favorite jewelry shop, Piccioni Fabio (no sign—known only by its receipts), and steps from the gorgeous sunset at Villa Aldobrandini, this colorful hotel lies almost hidden behind an arched entrance on Via Panisperna, smack in the middle of what used to be our Sunday stroll.

The vibe… A hotel of its time—more like the rascal child of its biggest competitors: the refined, but less charmingly located Hotel Locarno and the overly corporate St Regis, with too much of everything. Turning off from the old-world charm of Via Panisperna we stepped into a Roman bonbon, a sugar high, and were immediately sucked into its candy-like atmosphere. The lobby and bar layer Moorish patterns, zebra prints, dark burgundy bleeding into terracotta, lime-green jungle wallpaper, all washed in a soundtrack of Balearic pop and ‘80s Italian rock. Giovanni the receptionist enthusiastically toured us around the ground floor before leaving us to our olives and a drink at the bar. The energy of the new penetrates the place, but the Roman service never failed to be less than personal, relatable and warm. We especially loved the refreshingly quiet smoking patio in the middle of the building, framed by its solitary streaming fountain and vine-covered walls, truly a gorgeous place. We cannot wait to come back when the vines have spread and the patina has grown in.  

The rooms… One of 36 rooms and suites, ours was a quiet room on the second floor, smartly laid out so as to spare no comfort, despite the size constraints of a city hotel. With the entertainment system hidden behind the drapes and a hallway separating a spacious and elegant bathroom and vibrantly decorated bedroom, it brought to mind a baroque tower. 

The food… Each time I pass through Rome, typically from Fiumicino towards more remote places in Italy, it’s always with the same anxiety and indecision of where to eat. Almost all of my favorite restaurants are in Rome. With a leap of faith and after a long day of travel, we decided on Casa Monti’s own restaurant (simply, Il Ristorante). We were not disappointed. The team behind Sicilian chef Umberto Tuccio does a beautiful job elevating the classic Italian meal. Its colorful presentation was perfectly yet casually serviced by Silvia, who led us through the evening with an immediate friendliness. The backyard patio (our choice) was filled with a hot gentle breeze, while the Etna Bianco was crisp and round and the risotto ai fiori di zucca had us weeping. We moved upstairs to the secluded rooftop terrace, the last remaining guests. You shouldn’t miss it, Sylvia had said. Sitting there, you could feel what it is that makes a boutique hotel, being luxurious enough to elevate you above the rooftops without disturbing the serene beauty of the place.

The wellness… I deeply regret arriving too late and leaving too early to get to experience Susanne Kauffman’s rooftop spa. On our visit it was only open from 11-6, but as soon as the soft opening phase is over, it will open in the morning and close later in the evening.

Be sure to… Enjoy a walk around the block before dinner and a drink at the rooftop bar after.

Parting words… This city will always leave us begging for more. Casa Monti was a stylish and comfortable stay, smack in the heart of it all.

Dates of stay… August 2024