Baja Road Trip

We are Northern Californians and after becoming empty nesters, we made the move to a slice of farmland and the desert beaches of Baja Sur, Mexico. California natives always dream about what our home coast “used to be” back in the 1930s and 1940s before the world discovered it all, and Baja, a geographical extension of it, feels familiar in that way today. 

Our first road trip from San Francisco to the southern tip of Baja was in 2018. We packed our 18-year-old Toyota with home essentials and surfboards, and made our way over 1,000 miles to El Pescadero, just beyond Todos Santos. Driving the dirt roads and farmlands of this quiet hardened Baja land is our way of experiencing the Pacific Ocean and West Coast, but with a time machine dialed way back.

Before we attempted it, we received a lot of dos and don’ts from people who knew the drive, and we’ve developed our own in the years since. There’s definitely a lot to know, from the best routes and where to stop and explore, to safety advice. 

Speaking of which, the storytellers of Hollywood, cable news, parents (not necessarily yours…), and people who haven’t left their zip code since peaking in high school will make you think you need a bulletproof car or a $80k off-road vehicle to drive down Mexico’s Baja Peninsula. American folklore suggests that you will be robbed at gunpoint and/or drugged at a highway taco stand only to wake with one less kidney at sunrise.  

We’re here to say that it’s not true. The Mexican people give us faith that the human race is resilient, kind, thoughtful, and has the ability to use fence wire, duct tape and elbow grease to keep us all moving down the road. If you add up our and our friends’ trips taken along Mexico’s Baja, it’s probably 40 to 50 in total, without a single incident. Though exempt from the above is the “Asshole Rule®.” If you’re an asshole north of the border, chances are you will be an asshole south of the border, and waking up with one less kidney might be in your cards. 

Leaving California – Border Crossings & First Leg of the Journey

There are three border entry points from California into Mexico, each determining where you might stop on your first or second night driving 6 to 10 hours a day. The full trip from San Francisco to the tip of Baja takes about four days, three if you’re coming from LA or San Diego.

There is one Golden Rule when traveling through Baja: don’t drive at night. The roads are paved, but there can be potholes and wandering livestock that find themselves on the highways. The roads are also narrow and it’s a bit of a rush when a semi passes you on a shoulder-less road. Gas stations are sparse, and there are only about 30 to 40 of them along the entire 1,000-mile stretch. Stations are more frequent in populated areas south of the border, but between towns like Guerrero Negro and Bahia de Los Angeles, you’re on your own. We always plan our stops ahead and fill up every chance we get. It’s not an issue, so long as you know that gas won’t be every 30 miles like in the U.S. You don’t need to carry Jerry cans, though it does make you look cooler.

Staying Safe with Your Stuff

On our drives, our truck is packed like The Beverly Hillbillies, and because it’s an open-bed vehicle, securing our stuff at night can be a challenge. Most nights, we opted for hotels with good security, but we also know a lot of folks who “glamp” their way down, staying in a mix of beach campsites and other creative options.

Another thing to consider is navigating border patrol and customs. It can be a breeze if you are not carrying a truckload, as we have experienced unpacking and repacking the truck for inspection (at those times you really wonder why you brought that salad spinner). There are a few Mexican military stops randomly placed along this drive, and an easy wave or short conversation leads to a quick pass through. They’re looking for things that most of us won’t be carrying, such as 50 kilos of cocaine or an arsenal of weapons. For the most part, the military checkpoint attendants are somewhat bored and happy to talk about your dog you’ve brought, the guitar case in the backseat, and where you’re from.

Crossing the Border: Tecate, Mexicali or Tijuana

Tecate and Mexicali can be less populated and less intimidating crossings. Tijuana, on the other hand, can be a mess of vehicles, people and time. Whichever crossing you choose, once you’re waived through customs, don’t forget to park and go into the immigration office to get your passport stamped. It’s one of those things you wouldn’t know, so now you do. When you leave Mexico, they need to know when and where you entered Mexico, which is why this matters.

Northern Baja: Valle de Guadalupe and Beyond

If you cross at Tecate or Mexicali, you’re inland and close to Valle de Guadalupe, Baja’s wine country. It’s about an hour’s drive from the border, but it’ll take you closer to two hours because of winding mountain roads. 

A great first stop is the Bruma Wine Resort. It’s a beautiful, rustic-chic inn with a delicious farm-to-table restaurant. Accommodations are modern-rugged casas and the grounds are stunning. There is a natural pool with wood decking that overlooks the winery; you can grab a cold beer (honor system payment) or enjoy a glass of their signature wine. It’s a perfect place to relax, take in nature and kick off your trip.

We like to get out early the next morning and head to San Ignacio, about 9.5 hours away. The landscape changes dramatically from mountains to flat desert, and then to the coastline with those classic Baja turquoise waters. Along the way, we stop for tacos in San Felipe (don’t skip the pastor at Tacos y Tortas El Poblano), fill our tanks when we can, and take short breaks to stretch our legs. If you need a place around here to stay with 24-hour security for your car, try La Hacienda De La Langosta Roja.

We like to get to San Ignacio before sunset and stay at Ignacio Springs, a cool glamping spot with yurts right by a freshwater lagoon. The property has paddle boards and floating boats to explore the water, but you can also head into town for a bite and check out the historic church and Plaza. Another place we’ve heard decent things about is Hotel La Huerta.

Exploring Baja Sur: Loreto and Beyond

Last time we were here, we got up early to head south. On our way, we passed through Santa Rosalia, a cool industrial coastal town, to get some coffee and a snack—worth parking the car and walking around. Mulegé, which is lush and beautiful from the coast to the inland hills, was next on our list to visit. Spend a quiet day on the beach and night at Hotel Serenidad, or have a look around, jump in the water and move on. 

Loreto is 3 to 4 hours from San Ignacio. This is a Pueblo Mágico, known for its world-class fishing and worth a stop for the day or night on the East Cape. Pueblo Magico towns are designated by Mexico’s Secretariat of Tourism, recognizing their cultural richness, historical significance and natural beauty. A worthwhile wait is the busy and popular Del Rey Tacos, or a fancier lunch, Mi Loreto. There is also a Zopilote brew pub, which has good tacos. Or the Buena Vida Bar and Grill. In Loreto, we stay at La Posada de las Flores.

La Paz & Todos Santos

After Loreto, it’s about a 6-hour drive to Todos Santos or El Pescadero, our home. La Paz, the capital of Baja California Sur, is a great place for lunch. It’s busy, with plenty of restaurants and beautiful turquoise beaches. There are fabulous eco tours from La Paz that are day trips to Isla Espiritu through Explora Baja. You can spend the day swimming with whale sharks or sea lions and eating lunch on the remote white-sand beaches. 

Places to eat: Tiger Club – South East Asian food with a hip and creative atmosphere; Made Pizza; Nim and Oyster House.

Todos Santos is just an hour and a half further, a perfect spot to slow down and soak in the vibe.

In Todos Santos 

(Editor’s note: Also see our Southern Baja list!)

Taller 17 Café & Bakery – The most delicious pastries and cookies and coffee. It’s a to-go spot but you can eat and drink coffee outside on little tables. 

La Confianza Restaurante – Owned by chef Juliana Salazar, who also owns Taller 17. This tapas wine bar has unique and delicious plates and a wonderful natural wine menu and cocktails.

Dum Restaurant – For something more upscale, set in a magical palm grove. Dum has a prix-fixe tasting menu by French chef Aurelien Legeay. All of the dishes are unique and unrepeatable.

Tiki Santos – This is a seafood sandy-floor and palapa-roofed restaurant. It is casual and amazing for ceviche, aguachile tostadas, fish burritos and tacos with homemade salsas. 

Mi Pueblo – A casual Mexico City-style meat tacos spot—hard not to eat 5-6 of, because they are so good and cost 2.50 per taco.

Teatro 6 – A small ambient bar that serves unique and delicious cocktails       

Jazamango Café – For breakfast or lunch in a sweet garden setting, this sit-down cafe has really good fresh juices and a healthy Mexican-inspired menu with fresh baked bread. 

Cien Palmas – Perfect for a quiet dinner. This is a tucked-away restaurant and inn that has a California/Mexican inspired menu. It’s in a sweet garden and palm grove setting 

Farmers Market on Fridays – Local artisans, great food and produce with live music

Cuatro Vientos Yoga Studio – This movement arts studio is beautiful with a vaulted palapa roof in a tropical garden setting. The classes have a wide variety of styles, from Zumba to meditations.

Hotel San Cristobal – Adults only, with two restaurants and a pool. It’s situated on Punta Lobos Beach, which is a fishing port and an expansive beach. This beach is not safe for swimming. 

Life in El Pescadero

As mentioned, for the past seven years we’ve been living in El Pescadero, a little surf/agriculture town 10 minutes south of Todos Santos. Pescadero is filled with surfers, artists, friendly locals who have lived a lifetime here, New Yorkers, Californians and Canadians. Here we built El Campo, a retreat space for artists—an 18-bed boutique retreat that overlooks fields of chili peppers and basil, with views of the Pacific. We’ve made some of our best friends in the second half of our life in this little town. Here are a few of our favorite spots.

Hierbabuena – An iconic Pescadero restaurant, with a beautiful outdoor garden setting and a farm-to-table menu. The salads and cocktails are amazing. 

Barracuda Tacos – On Cerritos Beach, for the absolute best fish and shrimp tacos. They have really good margaritas and cocktails as well.

Palmar – For breakfast and lunch. This is a garden setting tucked away in the dirt roads of Pescadero. The atmosphere is casual and beautiful and the food is very good (cochinita pibil, chilaquiles, enfrijoladas, tinga and more)

Hiking at Punta Lobos – For a good dirt path and an uphill hike to see the vistas and coastline. Park at Hotel San Cristobal and explore the ruins of the old cannery before you start your ascent. 

Surfing and swimming at Cerritos Beach

ATV rentals from Pirate Backcountry Adventures

El Campo Retreat – Our retreat space sleeps up to 21 people. The whole property can be rented for larger families, corporate offsite meetings or movement facilitators. Meals can be included.