
At 15, Alec Lobrano had a lunch at Locanda Cipriani that helped shape his ideas about travel, glamour, and the kind of life he wanted to live. Forty-five years later, he returned to the legendary Venetian lagoon inn.

Food writer Alexander Lobrano has spent nearly four decades eating his way across the country, from humble taverns serving roast suckling pig and grilled octopus to formal dining rooms nudging Portuguese cuisine in new directions. Here, he shares ten favorite tables that tell the story of Portugal today.

Drawn by years of whispered recommendations, Alexander Lobrano headed to the Costa Brava to stay at Hostal Empúries, a century-old seaside hotel built for archaeologists excavating the nearby Greco-Roman ruins, and gently modernized in the years since without losing its Catalan soul.

Once a glamorous retreat for the Dolce Vita set, this family-run hotel in Tuscany still exudes an old-world ease. Alec Lobrano spent three restorative days drifting between mineral pools, slow meals, and conversations with guests—declaring it one of the kindest and most civilized hotels he’s ever been to.