Just Back From…Castello di Reschio

One of our favorite places to return to is Reschio in Umbria, which we first visited in 2015 when we stayed in one of the rentable villas on the property. We became fast friends with the owners of the estate, Benedikt Bolza and Nencia Corsini, and Clara with all their kids. Over the years, we’ve stayed in several of the villas (which are fantastic if you’re a larger group and like to cook), and watched their dream of turning the estate’s old castle into a hotel become the gorgeous reality that is Castello di Reschio.

Last year, we stayed soon after the hotel opened its doors (in May 2021), and this year we got to experience it in full swing. What used to be a tiny trattoria that was open just to villa owners and their guests is now Ristorante Alle Scuderie, a bustling restaurant and beautiful bar, and one of the most exciting new developments is Bottega di Reschio–the gift shop curated by Nencia. On our first stay, we all had a gorgeous dinner in the outside dining room, which was lit by these massive candles with the tallest flames–their wicks were so thick and sturdy it didn’t matter how strong the wind was. Nencia had told me she got them from a candlemaker in Sicily—and now she is selling them in her shop: two huge candles for 10 euros! (Honestly, you just need two for a long table of 10-12 and they will last the whole night. They are so powerful and cast so much light that sometimes we only use one.) She also has a great edit of hats from a Tuscan hatmaker, all the watercolor materials you could dream of, Venetian slippers, and a wonderful trove of finds from small producers she loves. The best part is, you don’t have to be a guest in the villas or the Castello to eat in the restaurant or visit the gift shop! If you’re anywhere near Cortona, definitely make this a stop.