Until my first visit, I couldn’t have pointed to the Azores on a map. Now I find myself returning every chance I get.
An autonomous archipelago of nine volcanic islands about 900 miles west of mainland Portugal, the Azores have a distinct identity and rhythm all their own. Living in New York City, I still can’t believe a place this remote and spectacular is only about a five-hour direct flight away. It’s one of the easiest and most rewarding European escapes from the East Coast.
The landscapes are breathtaking, with lush green mountains, dramatic coastlines, volcanic lakes, and the Atlantic always just around the corner. But what stayed with me most was the warmth of the people. Everyone we met was genuinely kind, and the food was some of the freshest I’ve ever tasted, especially the seafood. It feels unmistakably Portuguese, but with a slower pace and a deep connection to the land and sea that makes the islands feel like a world of their own.
My husband had been trying to convince me to visit for years. While on a shoot in Lisbon, he had dinner at a restaurant where he ate what he still says was the best fish of his life. The chef told him it had come from the Azores, and from that moment he was determined to see the islands for himself. About nine years ago, I finally agreed to tag along. We started our journey on São Miguel, and it was love at first sight. From the moment we arrived, we knew there was something incredibly special about the island.
On that first trip, we rented a charming little bungalow on a beautifully restored historic estate that was once home to vineyards, owned by a local couple. What began as a chance meeting quickly turned into a lifelong friendship. We spent evenings together at their home, sharing Portuguese wine and stories, and over the years they visited us in New York while we returned to the Azores whenever we could, often staying in one of their guest houses.
When we got engaged and knew we wanted to be married in the Azores, they generously offered to host our wedding on their property. Surrounded by our closest friends and family, we were married there in one of the most meaningful places in our lives. That property eventually became the land we purchased. What started as a vacation destination became our second home, rooted in friendships, unforgettable memories, and a deep connection to the island.
While I’ve been lucky enough to explore several of the Azorean islands, this guide focuses on São Miguel, the largest island and, in my opinion, the perfect introduction to the Azores.
WHERE TO STAY
If it’s your first visit to São Miguel, I’d recommend splitting your time between a few different parts of the island. Each offers something completely different, and together they give you a true sense of why the Azores are so special.
Furnas
Furnas is an absolute must. It’s the heart of São Miguel’s geothermal landscape, with natural hot springs, botanical gardens, and the famous Cozido das Furnas, a traditional stew slow-cooked underground using volcanic heat. My favorite place to try it is O Miroma, a longtime local favorite known for one of the island’s most authentic versions. If you’re visiting Terra Nostra Garden Hotel instead, stop by in the morning to place your order for lunch.
Stay: In Furnas, I recommend Octant Furnas for its beautiful design, exceptional spa, and direct access to the thermal waters, or Furnas Lake Villas for a quieter retreat surrounded by nature.
Ponta Delgada
I always tell friends to spend a few nights in Ponta Delgada. It’s a charming seaside city that’s easy to fall into, with beautiful architecture, independent boutiques, local cheese and wine shops, and a pace that encourages you to slow down.
One place I never miss is Louvre Michaelense. It’s my favorite spot for coffee and breakfast, though it’s just as good for a long lunch. Everything is fresh, beautifully prepared, and thoughtfully sourced. It’s the kind of place you’ll find yourself returning to throughout your stay. They even made our wedding cake.
As the sun goes down, head to Casa do Bacalhau. Hidden behind a fish market in Ponta Delgada, this intimate Fado supper club is one of the island’s best-kept secrets. Call ahead to confirm the music schedule and make a reservation. It’s one of the most soulful evenings you’ll have in the Azores.
Other favorite places to stay:
Santa Bárbara Eco-Beach Resort on the north coast for its effortless blend of contemporary design, black sand beaches, and world-class surf.
For something more intimate, White Exclusive Suites & Villas is one of my favorite boutique hotels. Perched above the Atlantic, it has incredible ocean views, understated luxury, and the kind of peaceful atmosphere that makes it hard to leave.
If you’re looking for something quieter, Casa do Pópulo is another wonderful option and a lovely way to experience local life.
WHAT YOU CAN’T MISS
One of the best ways to experience São Miguel is simply by driving. The island is filled with breathtaking miradouros (lookout points), and I always encourage people to pull over whenever they see one. Some of the most memorable views aren’t planned, they’re the ones you stumble upon along the way. Along the drive, you’ll pass rolling green pastures dotted with the happiest cows you’ve ever seen and, in summer, endless roads lined with vibrant blue hydrangeas. It’s one of the things that makes the island feel so magical.
My favorite place on the island is Sete Cidades. It’s the place I return to every time I’m on Sao Miguel. It’s impossible to capture its beauty in a photograph. The volcanic crater, twin lakes, rolling green hills and endless hiking trails make it one of those places you simply have to experience for yourself. Plan to spend the entire day there. If you can, stay at 7 Cidades Lake Lodge. The cozy bungalows sit right on the lake, with kayaks and bicycles available to explore the area at your own pace.
A day on the water is another must. Every August, we book with the wonderful husband-and-wife team at Sea Colors. They take small groups out to swim with dolphins and see whales up close, making the experience feel incredibly personal. It’s become one of my favorite days of the year and a tradition I look forward to every summer.
If you can visit during the summer, even better. The villages come alive with outdoor festivals, live music, and celebrations that last well into the night. The Portuguese know how to celebrate, and there’s something incredibly special about seeing families, neighbors, and visitors all gathered together in the streets. It’s one of the best ways to experience the warmth and spirit of the Azores.
ADDITIONAL MUST-DOS
Eat grilled fish at Bar Caloura. Order whatever was caught that day and enjoy one of the most beautiful waterfront settings on the island.
Order grilled limpets (a kind of mollusk) whenever you see them on a menu. They’re a local specialty and not to be missed.
Don’t miss A Tasca in Ponta Delgada. It’s a local favorite for traditional Azorean cuisine in a lively atmosphere.
Make a reservation at Petiscaria O Calheta. Chef Hugo Ferreira cooked our wedding dinner, so his restaurant will always have a special place in my heart. After honing his craft abroad, he returned to São Miguel to celebrate the island’s incredible ingredients with a fresh, modern take on traditional Azorean petiscos. It’s one of my favorite meals on the island.
Watch the sunset with sushi at Santa Bárbara Eco-Beach Resort. It’s less traditional, but the views are spectacular.
Visit the tea plantation at Porto Formoso Tea Factory. Tour the plantation, learn about the island’s tea-making tradition, and enjoy a fresh cup overlooking the ocean.
Make time for dinner at Quinta dos Sabores. Set on a former orange farm that’s now an organic working farm, this intimate farm-to-table restaurant celebrates the island’s incredible seasonal produce. Every meal is thoughtfully prepared with ingredients grown on the property, making it one of the most authentic dining experiences on São Miguel. Reservations are a must!
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