The Onsen of Kyushu

This piece originally appeared in our Spring 2023 print issue. Photographs and Words by Prairie Stuart-Wolff

The sun rises over the rolling pampas-covered hills of Aso and streams in through the wrap-around windows of our Toyota HiAce. Her name is Gogo. Outfitted with a platform bed in the back, she is our home away from home, a shelter on wheels as we explore the immense natural beauty of Kyushu, Japan’s southernmost main island. With its mild winters and early spring, Kyushu is a playground for outdoor enthusiasts full of scalable mountains, surfable coasts and plentiful onsen hot springs.

Japan is laced with fault lines and punctuated by volcanoes, and such volatile ground yields an abundance of natural onsen. Located on a subduction zone, where magma heats reservoirs of rainwater enriched with minerals from volcanic gases, Kyushu is richly concentrated with onsen. Styles range from raw and unattended hot springs found at the edge of the ocean, on the banks of rivers, and hidden in the mountains, to luxurious private baths sequestered within exquisite ryokans. But the majority of Kyushu’s onsen are organized into family-friendly, unpretentious bathhouses frequented by local residents and visitors. These communal baths are separated by gender (though young boys can accompany their mothers). Bathing suits are generally prohibited and after disrobing and storing one’s things in a cubby, guests proceed to a shower area to lather up before entering the baths.

Onsen enthusiasts travel to experience regional differences in these healing waters. Bubbly carbon dioxide springs are said to improve blood circulation, while clear chloride springs heal wounds and muddy-red iron ones are thought to treat anemia and chronic dermatological conditions. I’m particularly fond of the sulphur springs at the base of the Taisen and Kujū mountain ranges, home of Kyushu’s highest peaks. With body, mind and spirit renewed from hours on the trail, a long soak in these hot springs, named sankeinoyu (meaning mountain blessing of hot water), is manna for tired soles. As I gaze up at the very mountains I spent the day traversing, my sore muscles release their exhaustion to the milky pools that dilate peripheral vessels, enhancing circulation and rejuvenating the skin. As warm steam opens the lungs, every cell of my body feels purposeful and alive. A road trip in Gogo and a few days spent hiking and soaking always brings me home relaxed, recharged, and detoxed from digital life. Aso-Kujū National Park is a personal favorite, but the geological forces that give us hot springs ensure that there are majestic mountains to summit near each of Kyushu’s celebrated onsen towns, including Kurokawa, Yufuin, Beppu, Kirishima and Unzen.

Hotels + Stays

Amanemu, Ise-Shima
Hoshino Resorts Kai
Hoshinoya, Tokyo
Park Hyatt, Tokyo