In short… A lovely Belle-Époque style hotel—built in 1912 during the heyday of the glamorous Grand Hotel era in the mountains—which is still old school, but definitely not dusty.
The vibe… I know some people are surprised I like this town with its reputation (well deserved) of being expensive and attracting a glitzy crowd—but it also has a more low-key local crowd who live there year-round, and super cool old-school spots that are actually reasonable…well, by Swiss standards (everything is expensive). The Suvretta House is a 20-minute walk/5-minute drive from the center of town, which I though, at first, was going to be a drag, but actually it’s the best of both worlds. I’m so not a skier (though Matt is), so for him and any of you who ski, this place is heaven. You literally walk out the front door and across the road is a tow lift that brings you to the main lift that gives you access all over the mountain. There’s an amazing ski rental area where you can rent everything you need, even a jacket and pants, so you could basically show up with nothing but gloves.
The rooms… Very charming—more on the old world side of things—they did not modernize it to where you notice it, and that’s a good thing.
The food and drink… The hotel have their own in-house bakery, so breakfast is an epic affair—they pile an entire long table with breads and pastries, along with all sorts of local cheeses and meats, and other breakfasty things you’d expect.There are several other restaurants within the hotel, including the cozy Stube, though we decided to sit outside on its sunny terrace and eat fondue and and cakes. Right next to it is a restaurant just for children (which made me wish we had covered this place for Cookie magazine back in the day). Their Grand Restaurant is a formal affair (dark jackets and ties a must for men), with tableside steak tartare (the best we’ve ever had), champagne and cheese trolleys, a refreshing classic menu that ranges from beef Wellington to wild venison, and a finale of tableside flaming crepes Suzette! Their other two restaurants are on the slopes—Chasellas is at the base so you can go for dinner, and is a cozy, charming spot where we had the best schnitzel of the trip. Trutz, a lift ride away, is where “everyone” goes for lunch—it has the most epic people watching, especially with that beautiful snowy winter light that makes everyone look like a movie star. (Naturally Douglas Fairbanks and Gregory Peck have stayed here, not to mention Thomas Mann, Gianni Agnelli and Eva Perón.) But above all of these details, there’s a sweetness to the Suvretta. At breakfast, you see three and sometimes four generations sitting together at a table. In the afternoon you see families ice skating out front, and in the evening you tuck into a cocktail in front of the fire, with the most thoughtful staff taking care of you.
The wellness… I spent my mornings at the gym, in the steam room and their giant indoor pool. Their spa had treatments I’d never heard of, like “back detoxifying.”
Date of Stay… January 2022
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