Son Vell, Menorca

In short… Son Vell is a sensitively restored 18th-century manor that feels like you’re staying at a family’s grand private estate—because you are.

The surroundings… Son Vell sits on the southwestern corner of Menorca not far from the pretty city of Ciutadella, within a 200-acre estate in which an 18th-century Italianate manor takes center place. Its manicured gardens and two swimming pools are surrounded by acres of working farmland dotted with barracas—stone shelters for cattle shaped like beehives—which follows a time-worn avenue down to the Cami de Cavalls. The latter is an ancient coastal path that circumnavigates the whole island, worn by centuries of clattering Menorquin horse hooves. Traditionally, it was used by 16th-century knights to protect the island from pirates, and now it is a beautiful hiking path. 

The vibe… When you arrive at Son Vell down a long, winding drive marked out by ancient dry stone walls, you have the feeling of arriving at a family’s grand private estate, rather than a hotel. And no wonder: Son Vell is the brainchild of the family-owned Vestige Collection, which is slowly and sensitively restoring beautiful properties around Spain and its Balearic islands. Built from stone the color of burnt butterscotch, the building gleams in the late afternoon light, with its elegant, storied facade giving way to more contemporary, slick interiors with a muted palette and bespoke furnishings. 

The food… Let’s start with breakfast, which is eaten alfresco with a fountain flowing nearby. Coffee, fresh juices and flaky French pastries, followed by dishes such as açai bowls, avocado on toast and plates of fresh fruit, are all served to order. This is also the outdoor setting for Sa Clarisa, Son Vell’s relaxed daytime restaurant, where at lunchtime you feast on moreish plates of prawn croquettes, Iberico ham and local signatures such as black rice with red shrimp and squid tentacles. By night, Vermeil is the center of gravity, often with sultry live guitar and a sky full of stars. The menu here is more elevated and Menorca-focused, with plates such as Mahon mussels, flame-grilled red mullet with fisherman’s sauce and Ciutadella suckling pig. Save space for dessert, which features the likes of chocolate and chestnut soufflé, and a trio of orange cakes—blood, bitter and sweet. 

The wellness… Son Vell has a beautiful oblong stone pool set within the gardens, as well as a longer lap pool overlooking the estate’s farmland for those that want to get their lungs going before breakfast. Massage treatments can be organized in-room, but there are plans for a “spa village” within the wider estate. At present, it is more about morning sessions of Hatha yoga on the outdoor deck, swimming or paddle boarding in the cala just beyond the estate’s gate (there are bikes you can borrow to quicken the journey) and, if you’re so inclined, horseback riding. 

The rooms… The elegant guest rooms are split between the Main House and across the grounds with private terraces and giant spa-like bathtubs. We love the Junior Garden Suites, where an earthy minimalism—terracotta floors, limestone walls, tactile headboards and drapey linens—characterizes the interior design, and where glass doors lead onto very roomy gardens with outdoor showers and spaces to lounge and sunbathe. Ask for one near the lap pool so it’s a quick hop from your garden to your morning lengths. 

Be sure to… Check when the open-air cinema nights are on… and ask about the Jeep safaris — the island’s Talayotic ruins are worth seeing. 

Parting words… Menorca in early October is a revelation.

Date of stay: October 2023