Postcard from… Chania, Crete

Hello from… Chania, Crete. The southernmost and largest of the Greek islands, Crete is as mountainous as it is mythic—Zeus himself was said to be born in a high cave here—and its rugged elevation and sinuous roads have always made it difficult to penetrate. Crete has been dogged by a reputation for overdevelopment, but that’s largely an affliction in the north-central area of Heraklion, the capital (also home to the must-see archeological remains of Knossos Palace, the seat of Minoan kings). Chania on the western side is urban but richly layered: an Old Town with a postcard-perfect Venetian port, Ottoman domes and neoclassical mansions, and flower-draped Cretan houses strung along narrow lanes. Both beautiful and bustling, a little rough-edged but soulful, it’s also home to a flourishing new wave of ateliers, food ventures, and entrepreneurs reinterpreting Cretan traditions.

Where I’m staying… The JW Marriott Crete Resort & Spa. This was my third visit—we have dear friends in Chania—and on other occasions I’ve loved the sweet agriturismo Metohi Kindelis, the design-forward and joyfully kid-filled Ammos, and the elegant Casa Delfino in an Old Town Venetian mansion. This time, wanting both proximity to our friends in the city and a true beach holiday (our teenage daughter was with us), we tried out the new JW, about 25 minutes out along the Akrotiri Peninsula, on Marathi Beach. I’m not usually a resort person, but the property was a relaxing escape: all earth-toned minimalism with a sultry edge, and three pools and cabanas right on the water. It wound up striking just the right balance. (You can read my full Guest Book here.)

The best meal(s) I had… We always make a beeline for souvlaki at a hole-in-the-wall called Oasis. (Thraka, though part of a chain, is so good too!) And we love to join our friends for a traditional wood-fired meal at Christostomos, which typically includes some combination of dakos (barley rusks topped with ripe tomato), horta (seasonal wild greens), braised rabbit or lamb slow-cooked in the wood oven with just olive oil and herbs, sfakiani pita drizzled with honey, and of course, shots of raki. Another favorite is Maiami, a lively and colorful bistro on the water owned by Greek-American ceramicist Alexandra Manousakis and her sommelier husband Afshin Molavi, known for seasonal shared plates and low-intervention wines from her family’s beautiful vineyards in Vatolakkos (well worth a visit for a tour and tasting!). This trip also brought new discoveries: Red Jane Bakery, by Nikos Tsepetis of Ammos, turning out artisanally made breads in a modern space; and the JW’s own Onalos, a seafood restaurant open to the public, where our sea bass crudo and grouper with spinach-rice were super fresh and flavorful. A final favorite: Patrelantonis Fish Taverna, on Marathi Beach, a humble-looking place beloved by locals (and supposedly even the president).

A few fun things I did…  Wandering the maze of Old Town’s alleys and Venetian harbor is always a pleasure, especially with its ever-improving lineup of boutiques: Katerina Makriyianni for beautiful gold necklaces and earrings; Just Brazil for Greek designers like Ancient Kallos and Zeus + Dione; and countless linen, ceramics, jewelry and soap/oils shops tucked into side streets. For an icy frappe or Greek coffee (or aperitivo at sunset), the Chania Sailing Club is a must. As a history nerd, I enjoyed my deep-dive at the Archeological Museum of Chania, which opened in 2020 with an extraordinary collection of Minoan pottery, figurines, and jewelry that trace Crete’s long history, and visit to the 17th-century Agia Triada Monastery on the Akrotiri Peninsula, whose monks produce and sell olive oil. On the more adventurous side, the 10-mile Samaria Gorge hike is unforgettable and so worth it—though accompanied by a good number of tourists and large Greek families ambling down the trail, you can still find yourself alone in the deep canyon, which finishes at the black-pebbled Libyan Sea, where you’ll want to plunge into the cool blue water—heaven. (You can book transportation through most hotels, or at various kiosks in town.) This year we opted for a boat trip, hiring a skiff and skipper at Marathi Beach through Notos Mare to explore nearby coves, including Seitan Limani’s dramatic cliffs and Glass Beach—which, true to its name, is glittering with millions of pieces of worn sea glass.

The book I read… Crete by Barry Unsworth, a lyrical travelogue that makes sense of the island’s complexity, weaving mythology (the Minotaur and the labyrinth, which allegedly occurred at Knossos Palace), history, and the Cretans’ fiercely rebellious spirit through centuries of foreign invaders.

A thing or two I learned… The Minoans (c. 3000-1450 BC) were Europe’s first advanced civilization, who built multi-story architecture and complex plumbing networks, used sophisticated painting and ceramic techniques, and sailed to Egypt, Turkey, and, some say, as far as India!

Manousos Chalkiadakis’ studio, Just Brazil

The best thing I’m bringing home… A ceramic pomegranate by Manousos Chalkiadakis, a revered Cretan artist whose amazing home-studio in the mountains near Chania is filled with his paintings, ceramics, and antiques. (To arrange a visit email info@greekceramics.gr or call/text +306947270355.) My daughter commissioned a striking long-chain necklace made of semi-precious stones at the atelier at Antoniou, and I picked up a knotted straw bag at Just Brazil, which folded up easily in my carry-on!